My Z1 needs carbs synced NEED MANOMETER recommend

Wow, there's some cool stuff on that site!!!

www.carbtune.com/

www.saber-cycle.com/store/product858.html

this is the one I got

stonemaster wrote:

www.saber-cycle.com/store/product858.html

this is the one I got

Thanks Stone, if my Morgan doesnt work out that one is the closest thing to the mercury 'Carb Stix' I grew up reading about in the 1970s, at $66 US it is affordable too.

newOld_kz1000 wrote:

1) newish battery (bought a new Yuasa for my '78 kz1000a2 a few months back and put it in this bike)

Excellent.

2) did a valve clearance check -- all were within spec.

Excellent.

3) new plugs

Excellent.

4) new oil and filter (course that wont affect the idle!)

Excellent, and YES, Oil type affects idle, but not erratic or rough idle, just idle resistance (which to some can "seem" rough).

5) check ignition advancer to make sure it was not sticking -- it wasn't, this bike has been inside all its life, the area behind the points cover was spotless, no moisture

Good - Have you checked initial timing?

The bike has 23k original miles on her.

Doesn't matter

fuel delivery is fine, the see-through big gas filter is always full.

Very good.

I even popped the gas cap open and rode around with that to test if the breather in the cap might be clogged, creating a vacuum in the gas tank leading to poor fuel flow out the tank -- nope.

Right - its a crap shoot, but sometimes works.

It just idles a bit rough. Not to the point of dying on me, it's just that the revs fluctuate.

OK - so how much fluctuation? My practically wide open 4-1 pipe causes the idle to flutter slightly, and as soon as I put the baffle in - it smooths right out.

And then there's that big hesitation from zero to 1/4 throttle opening.

HERE WE GO. Here is your big problem. If timing (chain/cams + ignition) is correct/tight, this is most likely a fuel delivery issue.

More than likely with a fuel injected bike, its an air leak at one or more of the throttle bodies, intake boots, airbox side boots, or just about anywhere else in the intake tract. Dissasemble, clean and reassemble everything air tight. You can use a little grease rubbed on the rubber conection surfaces to aid assembly/sealing, and any later dissasembly. PERMATEX has a product called MOTO-SEAL that is used for larger gaps/gasket sealing when directly in contact with gasoline - works well to seal intake boots to engine.

Make sure your using the correct stock air filter.

Do a compression check to make sure of engine condition.

Finish your gas treatment injector cleaner, and if that doesnt help - buy a good pressurized injector solvent with directions on how to connect it correctly and run engine...
or take it to a shop and watch them correctly clean them. i dont trust shops

Hope this helps you man!

Best luck.

TeK9iNe wrote:

And then there's that big hesitation from zero to 1/4 throttle opening.

HERE WE GO. Here is your big problem. If timing (chain/cams + ignition) is correct/tight, this is most likely a fuel delivery issue.

More than likely with a fuel injected bike, its an air leak at one or more of the throttle bodies, intake boots, airbox side boots, or just about anywhere else in the intake tract. Dissasemble, clean and reassemble everything air tight. You can use a little grease rubbed on the rubber conection surfaces to aid assembly/sealing, and any later dissasembly. PERMATEX has a product called MOTO-SEAL that is used for larger gaps/gasket sealing when directly in contact with gasoline - works well to seal intake boots to engine.

Make sure your using the correct stock air filter.

Do a compression check to make sure of engine condition.

Finish your gas treatment injector cleaner, and if that doesnt help - buy a good pressurized injector solvent with directions on how to connect it correctly and run engine...
or take it to a shop and watch them correctly clean them.

Thanks 9, I'm thinking an intermittent fuel interruption also. Everything else seems fine. Here are a couple things on the 'to do' list while I wait for the Morgan carb sync to arrive from Ireland:

1) new fuel filter -- I noted today when I rode the bike: the idle was *perfect* for about 1 minute after I started her up. Then back to dropping/rising/dropping etc. RPMs. Maybe the fuel filter or lines are dirty. I have not changed it yet and this is my next job.

2) use WD40 and check for air leak(s) based on your recommendation

3) new air filter

4) there a rubber elbow that connects the top-of-cylinder-head breather to the airbox. A long rubber hose runs from a nipple atop the engine and connects to the air filter can through a 90-degree rubber elbow that is cracked through. I'll replace that. Not really a fuel/air intake issue, just a breather for the top of the motor, but it needs to be fixed.

5) remove and boil out the petcock in boiling water with vinegar. I just did this to a highly-clogged, 12-years-of-varnish cb900 Honda and that petcock come clean fast.

6) flush the gas tank.

Now, this gas tank has one of those 'Kreme' (or other brand) liner inside, so I think there's a chance the petcock on its inside could have some treatment on it.


7) when the Morgan sync tool arrives, I'll sync the throttle bodies.

Thanks for the advice 9.

if its white its Kreem, if its Kreem remove it immediately or you'll have problems FOREVER this I know

stonemaster wrote:

if its white its Kreem, if its Kreem remove it immediately or you'll have problems FOREVER this I know

My question would be, is it possible to apply that product in such a way that it will flake or peel off in spots over time? I haven't pulled the gas tank and checked the petcock yet, and I have never worked with a petcock or gas tank that was Kreemed.

That coating has a real suspicious look to it, I don't see how over time the gasoline wont get after it and make it come off in chunks and maybe clog the petcock.

Hell Yes, I bought a tank off ebay to use on another project, this necessitated cutting a section out of the bottom of the tank for fitment ( with a custom replacement section to be added later) The sections were large enough to reach a hand inside, I saw something odd and reached in a pulled out SHEETS of Kreem, sheet after sheet, piece after piece, I took a picture of it all lying there in a pile and sent it to the seller who, to his credit, promptly refunded my money, I cant find the picture now but trust me on this

stonemaster wrote:

Hell Yes, I bought a tank off ebay to use on another project, this necessitated cutting a section out of the bottom of the tank for fitment ( with a custom replacement section to be added later) The sections were large enough to reach a hand inside, I saw something odd and reached in a pulled out SHEETS of Kreem, sheet after sheet, piece after piece, I took a picture of it all lying there in a pile and sent it to the seller who, to his credit, promptly refunded my money, I cant find the picture now but trust me on this

Bad self applications have resulted in exactly this happening after only a few years service. SAD.

Okay I'm pulling the gas tank and going to remove and boil out the petcock. I'm almost 100% sure that the stumbling at idle is a fuel delivery issue.

Okay, think about this scenario: you're driving down the freeway, you know your gas is getting low, then you get the telltale bogging of your engine, the loss of power that tells you "Time to switch over to the reserve on the gas tank."

Well that keeps happening over the past few days. So I switch it over to reserve. And by the way there is PLENTY of gas in the tank. The bogging stops and the motor is fine again.

Then after a mile or so I switch from RESERVE back to the normal petcock setting. And drive fine for miles.

It's a fuel delivery issue, this rough idling issue -- and today about 3/4 of the day the idle was FINE.

CAN I flush the gas tank with Acetone?

It has that Kreem or something similar treatment inside of it. I always remove the petcock on my tanks and then flush with Acetone, I put the Acetone inside and shake-shake-shake for a few days with a cork in the hole where the petcock normally is. Then drain the Acetone, let air dry, put the clean petcock on, fill with gas, done.

Or is Acetone bad for the Kreem'd tank?

u need to determine which product it is, if it aint Kreem then ur probably OK, alot of people used POR-15 which I have heard is much better (I believe its a reddish color) and doesnt fail to the extent Kreem does.
no acetone wont do it to answer that ? but one step at a time it could be something totally different (and usually is)

Even if that is a fairly new fuel filter, you should take it off and drain it into a clear glass bottle to see the residue from that Liner. Blow a bit of air, backwards from normal flow. Those Injectors will have a small filter screen where the fuel rail connects, inside the top of the injector, these can become dirty/ clogged as well. Also does your manual show an Idle Switch Adjustment? This could be part of your off Idle hesitation. If you remove those throttle bodies, I would clean the inside bore and blade well, so each will have a even minimum airflow. Set them up using a small drill bit or paper clip so they are really close to the same opening. Then Sync them, it shouldn't take much of a turn on the adjustment if the bench set up was close. I think you could Hang those Injectors off to the side and crank the motor, watching the spray pattern from each. Nothing like getting them ultrasonically cleaned and CC'd for proper flow rate.
Also have you checked the fuel pressure? Both regulated and pump output pressure? Most EFI systems will have a regulator with a vacuum hose to manifold vacuum, when the throttle is opened the vacuum drops causing a rise in fuel pressure. Causing an increased Shot of fuel, just like an accelerator pump on a carb.