1000 J carb rebuild tutorial

I have a 2002 KZ1000P. I've pulled the carbs for a rebuild due to one or more leaky float valves. According to the Clymers book, to get at all the parts for cleaning I have to separate the carbs due to the enrichner rod. Is there a video or tutorial specifically for the 1000 J carbs? I've seen others but none detailing this dis-assembly. I have not worked on any carbs such as these.

Any suggestions?

you don't have to seperate the carbs to properly clean them and replace needles and seat assemblies just clean each carb seperatly when they are still attatched its easier and cheaper. that way none of the finicky parts like orings and carb joint tubes get disturbed.

I don't remember ever seeing a step-by-step tutorial on motorcycle carbs. I guess it is just one of those things that most of us learned either from a mentor or by trial and error.

A lot of guys do not remove the carbs from the rack, like TB said. I've done that myself, though I think there is some risk involved. If there are any o-rings about to go bad, the carbs will have to come off the engine again and be completely disassembled. Also, if the carb cleaner is corrosive to steel parts, small traces may be left behind that will cause rust on the steel screws, making later dis-assembly really difficult.
My carb cleaning bucket is too small for four carbs anyway, so I take the carbs off the rack. It is not that difficult, and that way I do just one carb and all its parts at a time.

Thanks guys. The bike runs fine (sometimes it's reluctant to start when hot, but just a little), the only reason I want to get in to the carbs is to replace the float valves because at least one is leaking. Everything I've read or seen so far says don't get the carb cleaner on any rubber parts. Since I have them out of the bike and dis-assembled I'd like to do a thorough job. Leaving them together however means I won't be able to get at the starter plungers and I'm afraid the carb cleaner may attack the rubber on them. Getting them apart means dealing with the plunger shaft and the throttle linkage. Now, I'm no dunce with a tool but I can see some spring loaded part of the linkage flying off to parts unknown and then what? Is it wise to just replace the float valves and clean everything but the starter plungers? I don't want the spray cleaner to damage anything I'll have to deal with in the future as you have both pointed out. Thanks, Mark.

that is exactly what i would do changing your float valves will have a huge effect on how it runs

I am not sure if these are the same carbs or not but there is a good how to for cleaning carbs for the Suzuki GS models here at the link below that may provide some insite.

www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

those carbs are very similar good site to check out for sure.

gd4now wrote:

I am not sure if these are the same carbs or not but there is a good how to for cleaning carbs for the Suzuki GS models here at the link below that may provide some insite.

www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

Thank you.:woohoo: That site is awesome, not as scary as I thought. On a 2002 with 14,000 miles is it necessary to get every rubber part brand new or is a cleaning good enough? I have not yet opened the carbs.

just clean them don't worry about replacing components unless the get wrecked , lost or destroyed.

blipco wrote:

Any suggestions?

If your KZ has typical Mikuni CV type carbs, read this awesome carb cleaning article :

www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

GS and KZ share almost identicle carbs.

Those are standard BS34s on that bike and use the same parts as other BS34s but ALL the jetting is different from the civilian bikes. That is still my favorite carb.