installing carbs...

hey guys.... forgive me for asking this question, i'm a mechanical newbie.

i just took the airbox off and i'm installing pods. the carbs came off and i'm trying to put them back on. is there a trick or secret to it???

i completely loosened the boots and still couldn't get all four back on.

here is a pic:



anyone?

I believe your picture is showing the carb holders)or as other people call them manifolds).

Using a hair dryer set on hot, heat the holders until soft( be careful in not burning them).

If this fails, order new ones from z1 enterprises.
The rubber ducting or boots from the air filter box to the carbs can also benefit from hair dryer use as they get difficult to work with.

New boots are really soft and flexible, making this chore much more enjoyable.

MFolks... thanks for the tip and info(correct names), i appreciate it.

i'll give the hair dryer a shot...

If not already done, could position the clamp screws at the bottom (instead of on top) before pushing the carbs into place inside the carb holders.

Would also dab some silicone lube or Armorall around outside of the carb exit throats and on inside of the carb holders just before pressing carbs into place.

I also use a length of sturdy wood dowel (or a common garden plant stake) behind the carbs to help lever them into place.

The rubber hose appears deteriorated where it attaches to the nipple. Guessing it's a vacuum hose to petcock. To assure it's not interfering, might want to remove it before pushing carbs into place. Would consider replacing the hose, as it should be free of any air leak.

Another tip --- while the carbs are still a few inches out toward the bike's right side, go ahead and attach the throttle cables to the pully. In this position, the small adjusters and locknuts are more easily accessible.

Good Fortune!

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H1:
I've got some silicone spray... so, i might try that. I bought the bike half chopped so I figured i would make it right(make it a hard tail). and yes, i've researched it quite a bit. i've already marked a couple of threads for reference. thanks for the info, i appreciate it.

Patton:
If the silicone doesn't work, i'll try the armorall, i thought about this last night but wasn't sure if it was safe to use in that area.
When i was trying to put the carbs back in the holders, i was using a piece of wood 1/2 thick and 1 inch wide.... worked great for leverage. just couldn't get them in. :blush:
Good eye, I completely overlooked the hose, but now that you mention it... quick question: i've been looking for a vacuum petcock for my Sportster tank but can't find one. if, indeed, i go to a gravity feed petcock, do i just cap that off that the vacuum hose would go on??

thanks again for all the help guys... i appreciate it.

The 550 you have uses tk-22 carbs which are mechanical slide carbs and are rather easy to tune with pods.

Those clamp screws in the photo need to go another 5 to 10 turns looser to go on. Also, they were originally on the bottom. The carb bracket going over the top may interfere with the screws being on top. You will probably have to put the screws back to the bottom.

A bit of silicone spray would help too, no ArmorAll. It can deteriorate some rubber.

As mentioned, if it's cold out, use a hair dryer to warm things.

That hose, and the other one on the other side go to the air injection system. You can just cap them off and remove the air injection device and cap off all of the other ports.

here is how it looks when fully on.
Notice the how the rack bracket overlaps the clamps.

loud, thanks for the info... definitely good to know. and thanks for sharing that pic.

i'll change my screws so that they are on bottom... and now that i know how far they go on, there shouldn't be any guess work.