TOPIC:

I finished restoring my GPZ 1100B2 DFI system..
engine is runing fine and have plenty of power, but some times I have problems with adjusting the idle RPM's.
Everything will be OK for a while and then Idle raises up without cause... If I adjustit on the next stop it will go fine for next 10-50 miles(you can never guess) and again it goes high on 1800-2000RPM . Even if it's adjusted before turning it off sometimes have very high idle after the start up and sometime goes verywell..

I don't have expencive Kawasaki tool for TPS ..and I would like someone to explain poorman tuning method of TPS.
Where to drill and how to adjust it. I've read couple of topics on this board but they don't give me full procedure.

thanks guys

1982 Kawasaki GPZ1100 B2 ECU Pin out


I have a 82 GPZ1100 B2 also . I got out my well used service manual and copied the wire pin-out if you are going to use the EFI system.


The connector is numbered left to right with pin #1 on the lower row of pins
with #12 above #1 .

I'll give you the pin-out and wire colors that are viewed from the wire side.

#1 Black/Yellow Ground
#2 Blank
#3 Blank
#4 White/Red Battery +
#5 Blue/Red Sensor Ground
#6 Blue Air Temperature Sensor +
#7 Blue/Yellow Control Unit +
#8 Green Engine Speed
#9 Blank
#10 Gray Engine Temperature +
#11 Blue/White Throttle Opening Angle
#12 Yellow Injector Drive Signal
#13 Blank
#14 Blank
#15 Blank
#16 Black/Green Control Unit Ground
#17 Blue/Orange Throttle Sensor +
#18 Black Engine Speed
#19 Red/Black Starter Signal
#20 Blank
#21 Green/White Fuel Pump Relay Drive Signal


Kawasaki GPZ1100 TPS Replacement

Being as it doesn't have an O2 sensor for fuel correction and the computer doesn't allow for enrichment your assumption would be correct. The Kawasaki Turbo is your friend here, for the variable resistor wired inline to the temp sensor circuit. Ask the guy whose had four of them. Do a Google using the turbo instead of the GPz. I think Holeshot Performance made one.

MPS Racing made a variable resister for the GPz1100 DFI. They don't show it on their website, e mail or call and ask for it. They'll still put one together.
www.mpsracing.com/

Interesting fuel mod on my GPz1100 DFI
larrycavan wrote:

Old trick from the mid 80's finds new life in the next century

You have two choices to fatten up the fuel curve on a stock Kawasaki DFI from those days.

1 - Air temp sensor Resistor
2 - Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

For a mild street motor the air temp sensor works very well.

For anything that would require main jet increase on carbs, the FPR is the ticket.

Also, if you drill out the TPS plugs so you can adjust the TPS for highest smooth idle, it can help a bunch with bottom end throttle response. It's simple and very effective.

To do it, slightly loosen the 2 TPS screws and adjust to point where bike idles the highest. Lock them down and adjust your main idle screw on the TB rack for 1100RPM idle.

If you really want to wake it up, send the throttle bodies to Sid Pogue at Pogue Machine in Oklahoma City. Well worth having done

all i can tell you what i did to my turbo bike before i sold it.
had it running and turned it till i had the best idle.
they do make a tool for it though.
i would suggest checking out lorcan's sight.
www.750turbo.com
do a search there.
not the same bike but they are cousins.

I think I found it... For everyone here Thanks guys you're great..

Here is a copy:
"I don't know the condition of your bike/engine, but setting the idle mixture with this tool would take not account for engine wear and general wear in all the injection components. Therefore the chances of the volt setting from the book being correct for your bike are very slim. Although you say standard now if you remove the air filter or change the exhaust this will change the idle mixture setting and the tool would become redundant from that point on.

I agree with 84zx750e1, if you have the confidence to adjust the TPS with the tool it's just as easy to perform the same adjustment just by listening to the engine note. When it's wrong the engine really does stutter and when it's right sometimes the idle screw needs to be backed off as well to stop the engine from revving too high.

If you try the "By Ear" method then set it a little on the rich side IE not with the engine revving as high (the engine will increase in revs naturally the closer you are to the 14-1 ratio. However 13-1 I have found to be more forgiving when changing from hot to cold and stopping in a hurry the bike will tend not to die on you at traffic lights.

So quick rundown on adjusting it “By Ear”


1. Start the engine and get it warm (not red hot).
2. Adjust throttle idle to 1400-1500 rpm.
3. Remove little plastic cover.
4. Loosen the two screws until the TPS can be rotated.
5. Rotate the TPS clockwise a little to begin. (This should richen it up and the engine revs should fall a bit, don’t let it stall)
6. Adjust the TPS back anticlockwise until engine picks up and revs higher.
7. Stop at max revs, you can hear/see on the rev gauge.
8. Now very carefully adjust the TPS back clockwise to richen the mixture. The engine revs should drop a little. But the engine idle is stable.
9. Tighten the two screws; it's normal for the TPS to move as you do this so you will need to listen for an increase in revs or a decrease in revs. You will therefore need to set the TPS further anticlockwise or clockwise so as you tighten the screws the TPS is moved into the correct position. (You would have to do the same thing if you were to use the K tool to get the right volts)
10. Adjust the idle to 1100-1200 and refit the plastic cover.

You may need to try this a few times as by now the engine could be too hot. But once you have practiced it then it becomes very easy. Just like adjusting a mixture screw on a carb. Good luck and sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs. Oh, the movements you need to get it right are very very small, so be patient. Enjoy.
"

Almost sounds to me like you have an air leak.... might be a prudent check to rule out bad intake boots or cracked vacume hoses (VERY common issue on 30 year old bikes)

I've never needed to adjust the TPS on my GPz, but I did have to use a resistor to richen up the fuel mapping.

First thing i would verify is there are NO air leaks ! if all is well then warm up engine completely [ meaning ride it till fully warmed up not sitting idle till warm ] the set TPS by ear till it idles smoothly. next step check your throttle body sync adj if ness. [ your valves are properly set yes ? ] then ride bike and see if its idles fine if not try TPS setting once again as throttle body sync may have changed TPS reading. if it continues to idle erratic then you more than likely have a bad TPS sensor and the readings are changing when returning to idle. I have done many GPZ1100 ,750 Turbos and had to replace TPS to cure problems also how many miles on bike ?