Which rebuild kit?
- Thistle
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Which rebuild kit?
05 Oct 2007 13:52
Hi all!
I have a KZ650H (CSR) 1981 and have a problem I think may need a carb rebuild kit. I have flooding in the #2 cyl and when I take out the plug is is soaked with gas. Gas is also leaking out of the exhaust manifold if I let it idle for more than 3-5 mins. I have checked the coils, changed the plugs etc. all seems fine. the carbs i am sure at least need cleaned and if in there, might as well rebuild right?
Problem is I cannot seem to find a rebuild kit for this model - Is there one that anyone knows of?
Thanks!
I have a KZ650H (CSR) 1981 and have a problem I think may need a carb rebuild kit. I have flooding in the #2 cyl and when I take out the plug is is soaked with gas. Gas is also leaking out of the exhaust manifold if I let it idle for more than 3-5 mins. I have checked the coils, changed the plugs etc. all seems fine. the carbs i am sure at least need cleaned and if in there, might as well rebuild right?
Problem is I cannot seem to find a rebuild kit for this model - Is there one that anyone knows of?
Thanks!
KZ550C1 1980
KZ650H1 1981
KZ650H1 1981
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- Patton
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
05 Oct 2007 13:57
If not already done, would first check compression and valve clearances in #2.

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- Thistle
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
05 Oct 2007 14:05
Thanks. Sorry I forgot to mention that I had checked compression and I got pretty even reults 1-4. All close to 160

KZ550C1 1980
KZ650H1 1981
KZ650H1 1981
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- Patton
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
05 Oct 2007 14:32
Compression is good, provided it holds when engine warms. Marginally too tight valve clearance on cold engine can allow good compression when cold but prevent valve from fully seating as engine reaches operating temperature.
Another quick easy preliminary check would be to determine the service fuel level in the float bowl by doing the clear plastic tube test.
A too high float level caused by maladjusted, sticking, damaged or leaking float, can cause excessively rich mixture resulting in the symptoms described.
Btw, with #2 spark plug removed and grounded against cylinder head, is there a good fat spark when the engine is cranked over with the ignition turned on? With another new plug, does problem remain with #2?
Any chance #2 spark plug wire or cap is leaking due to deterioration, cracks, etc. Could check to readily see leakage by running engine in dark garage while spraying water mist over the wires.
After everything else checks out okay, leaving no alternative but the #2 carb, I would suspect the pilot circuit, particularly the pilot air passages being partially clogged.
If your carb has the side pilot air adjustment screws, is the screw turned out far enough from lightly seated. Turning it out is supposed to allow more air into the mixture at the pilot jet. Would also remove the pilot adjusting screw and examine the pointed end to assure it hasn't been damaged or somehow plugged the seat orifice.
Good Luck!
Another quick easy preliminary check would be to determine the service fuel level in the float bowl by doing the clear plastic tube test.
A too high float level caused by maladjusted, sticking, damaged or leaking float, can cause excessively rich mixture resulting in the symptoms described.
Btw, with #2 spark plug removed and grounded against cylinder head, is there a good fat spark when the engine is cranked over with the ignition turned on? With another new plug, does problem remain with #2?
Any chance #2 spark plug wire or cap is leaking due to deterioration, cracks, etc. Could check to readily see leakage by running engine in dark garage while spraying water mist over the wires.
After everything else checks out okay, leaving no alternative but the #2 carb, I would suspect the pilot circuit, particularly the pilot air passages being partially clogged.
If your carb has the side pilot air adjustment screws, is the screw turned out far enough from lightly seated. Turning it out is supposed to allow more air into the mixture at the pilot jet. Would also remove the pilot adjusting screw and examine the pointed end to assure it hasn't been damaged or somehow plugged the seat orifice.
Good Luck!

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
05 Oct 2007 14:47
Unless I'm mis-reading something, Kawasaki.com parts diagram shows two different carbs for the 81KZ650CSR.
One is the mechanical slide with side located pilot air screw.
The other is a vacuum operated carb with pilot adjusting screw located on the top nearest the engine, which originally had the "tamper-proof" fitting in place over the adjustment screw. Am guessing the screw on the CV carb would turn inward to lean the mixture.
Good Luck!
One is the mechanical slide with side located pilot air screw.
The other is a vacuum operated carb with pilot adjusting screw located on the top nearest the engine, which originally had the "tamper-proof" fitting in place over the adjustment screw. Am guessing the screw on the CV carb would turn inward to lean the mixture.
Good Luck!

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
05 Oct 2007 14:55
:blush: Just noticed your signature line does show H1 which is the mechanical slide carb with side located pilot air screw which turns out to allow more air and thereby lean the mixture.

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- kz650csr81
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
07 Oct 2007 09:46
My 81 has the vm24 carbs with accelerator pump... you may have the same... I believe that the accelerator pump is on #2... I had a similar problem so I changed plugs/wires and rebuilt the accel pump yesterday... after a test run no prob...please believe I am no mechanic but this worked for me.. maybe I just got lucky??
P.S. My bike is also the H1
Post edited by: kz650csr81, at: 2007/10/07 12:47
P.S. My bike is also the H1
Post edited by: kz650csr81, at: 2007/10/07 12:47
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- kz650csr81
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
07 Oct 2007 10:01
And to answer your question.. I could never find a "kit" to rebuild my carbs either... but Z1 will have most everything you need to "freshen" them up
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- JMKZHI
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Last edit: 03 Dec 2008 07:48 by JMKZHI.
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- Bluemeanie
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Re: Which rebuild kit?
07 Oct 2007 10:45
Any kit you get will not have the proper bowel gasket or air screw for the pump carbs. Everything else in kit works fine. The pump bowel gaskets have an "extra" hole in them for the shooters. You must get these gaskets seperatly from Z1. You will have to supply your own "o" rings though.
1980 KZ650F1, Bought new out the door for $2,162.98!
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