TOPIC:

So its not overkill to have the dyna coil and the mod at the same time? If not, then I'll order everything all at once.

First, Bluemeanie, it's the other way around.
Sh
awn! Holy crap, the 5 is WAY to hot a plug to run.

Really?, not a plug guru here but thought the higher the # the hotter the plug? I was thinking of running a little hotter plug in my bike (7es) so I would go to a 6es?

Bluemeanie wrote:

First, Bluemeanie, it's the other way around.
Sh
awn! Holy crap, the 5 is WAY to hot a plug to run.

Really?, not a plug guru here but thought the higher the # the hotter the plug? I was thinking of running a little hotter plug in my bike (7es) so I would go to a 6es?

Well, now you have me curious - why do you want to run such a hot plug? Do you do most of your riding in really short trips, like to the grocery store and such?

Anyway, check this out, it explains it better than I can:
NGK Heat rating and heat rating number

shawntmartin wrote:

So its not overkill to have the dyna coil and the mod at the same time? If not, then I'll order everything all at once.

Not sure if it's "overkill", per se. It's just that you haven't really described a symptom of a failing coil in what I've read. What I read in your post is that you need the coil-power mod, and MAYBE you need to cut about a 1/2 inch off your plug wire ends, or replace the caps, but we haven't got there yet....

I mean, look - if you *want* to replace the coil because you arrived at the conclusion you need to, or for safety or whatever, then it's not a bad time to do it... I guess I'm a little more systematic in wanting to approach it item-by-item.

Remember, the coil-power mod only costs you a handful of dollars and a couple hours. The coil replacement can cost $50-$100 (with wires, etc), depending on what coil you buy...

Oh, I thought you were recommending a new coil when you said that "you *might* want to wait on the new coil to see if the problem is just the power... "
Anyway, I ordered the coil mod stuff so I'll let you know when it gets here.

Post edited by: shawntmartin, at: 2007/03/24 10:12

Some plugs go down in number for a hotter plug and some go up in number. It seems like plugs Bosch, NGK and others for foreign vehicles go down in number for increased heat and Champion, AC delco, Motorcraft and others, for domestic vehicles, go up in numbers for increased heat.

Post edited by: shawntmartin, at: 2007/03/24 10:51

Biquetoast,

I got the relay stuff. What next?

Thanks for helping...

shawntmartin wrote:

Biquetoast,

I got the relay stuff. What next?

Thanks for helping...

Ok, great. First, here's my connection grid for the pigtail:

blue = 30 = Fused power line to starter solenoid
red = 87a = Unused
yellow = 87 = Acc, direct connection to coil
white = 86 = Trigger input to relay
black = 85 = Ground to frame

Basically, read and re-read the Coil-power doc written by WiredGeorge to help you understand where everything goes and why.

But in a nutshell, here's what I do (I'm skipping quite a bit of finer detail that I expect you can pick up from the WG doc):

Connect the pigtail and relay, stick it up somewhere by the coil, maybe strap it in with a zip-tie.

Crimp/solder an eyelet to the black pigtail wire, connect to ground. A good place might be a coil bracket bolt.

Cut the yellow/red wire that goes from the harness to the coil. The harness side gets crimped/soldered to the white pigtail wire for trigger input. The coil side gets crimped/soldered to the yellow pigtail wire - this is the new switched power output from the relay.

Since it will remain unused, you need to protect the end of the red pigtail wire - it is hot when the relay is active. I use some heat-shrink wrap and shrink it about 1/4 inch over the end. You cannot use this (the 87a) because it does not pass power through while in use.

Extend the blue wire, with an inline fuse, ending with an eyelet, and attach it to the positive lug on the starter solenoid. Which is the positive? You figure it out. A trick is to stuff the wire in through the rubber boot so it fits nicely.

Boy I hope I didn't miss anything. If I did, WG's doc should have covered it. Have I mentioned how bad my memory is? Just for pete's sake, double-check everything.

And good luck!

EDIT: Edited for technical accuracy

Post edited by: Biquetoast, at: 2007/03/29 18:52

Eagerly awaiting shawnmartin's next post....will stay tuned....

That sounds pretty simple. I won't be able to get to it for a few days....to many damn things going on... but I will post my results. I will start a whole new thread in the Electrical category since we aren't talking about carbs anymore so be sure to go to that category if anyones interested in the outcome. I also ordered a new coil and plugs so I will have to wait until it gets here. The Dyna coil doesn't come with any wires of any kind so I hope its not a pain to hook up.

Very interested. This simple mod cleared up alot of *&^%$ that I was dealing with. Good time to upgrade to blade fuses, as well.
DO keep us up to date and if you need help/info....ya gots plenty of help....

shawntmartin wrote:

... The Dyna coil doesn't come with any wires of any kind so I hope its not a pain to hook up.

Ah! Did you get plug wires?

Actually, it's almost easier to install *with* a new coil.
The only real difference is that the yellow will now get an eyelet (the eyelets come with the coil) crimped/soldered directly on it, and attached to either one of the coil connections.
And, for the blue wire that goes from the coil to the points, clip the bullet connector off the end, crimp/solder one of the eyelets from the coil package, and attach to the other coil connection.

Also - warning - when you mount the coil, it will be INCREDIBLY close to the mounting bracket, right where the plug wires connect. I STRONGLY advise grinding away a little bit of the coil mount to give clearance.

Additional warning - If the little rubber boot that goes over the wire end at the coil gets damaged/torn AT ALL, replace it. I had a *tiny* split in the rubber that I didn't notice, and the damn thing was arcing to coil mount! I started it up after installing and heard an occasional "ticking" sound, and when I looked under there I couldn't believe it. From the tiny little slit in the rubber (that wasn't even spread apart) I saw a bright blue spark arc. Freaky, especially since... uh.. gas tank!?!? The split in the rubber was caused, I believe, by me trying to sqeeze the boot on past the coil mount. Trust me... connect the boots first, then mount the coil...

Anyway, good luck...