TOPIC:

masospaghetti wrote:

I'm pretty much fed up with this set of carbs, they've been no end of trouble since i've had the bike.

It seems #1 cylinder remains too rich to fire at idle.

Please don't give up on the carbs until (1) stop the fuel dribble from #1 carb by assuring correct seating of the float needle in its seat; (2) assure correct float level in #1 carb -- use the clear tube method to check actual bowl fuel level -- you may find #1 higher than the others -- don't rely solely on the bench top measuring method.

With the dribbling stopped and correct float level assured, try readjusting the pilot air screw. If located on the air filter side of the carb, I believe turning counterclockwise gets leaner fuel mixture into #1 cylinder at idle.

Suggest at this point a test ride to assure running on all four cylinders at road speeds, and might also replace #1 plug with a new plug in case the current plug has become completely fouled and sooted up. Then check again to be certain of still no dribbling.

If firing on all four at road speed, and still dropping #1 at idle without fuel dribbling, perhaps the #1 carb slide is not in synch with the other three carbs and/or perhaps the pilot air jet is clogged.

Might be missing this by a mile (no stranger to that, unfortunately) and overlooking something or incorrect in the adjustment sequence -- but this is how I would approach it in your situation. However, when deciding how to proceed, remember the true gurus here with vastly more knowledge and experience and to whom I readily defer.

Keep the faith.

delete duplicate post

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2006/11/21 16:35

Patton, what is the best way to connect a tube to the float bowl? There's not a spout or anything to slide it on to.

Bob_79KZ: Thanks for the tip. I actually already removed the smog valve but haven't gotten around to installing solid aluminum plates on the valve covers.

I usually remove the drain screw and insert a clear piece of (1/4"?) tubing into the threaded hole to measure the float level of the carb.

Yes, like mariozappa said, just twist and "self-thread" the tube into the drain opening. If doing this with carbs removed from the bike, and using the trial and error method in adjusting the float tab, it saves time and effort by using only one float bowl screw to affix the bowl on while measuring the level (believe this time and energy saving hint came from the chronicles of WG). Recommend that any change or successive change in the float tab should be "teeny-tiny" as this is a very sensitive adjustment. Also, when refilling the empty float bowl, keep the clear tube held up against the top edge of the bowl very still and immobile so the level iside the tube reflects the exact same level inside the float bowl -- if the tube moves, you may get a false reading. Of course, for an accurate check, the carbs must be kept level whether on or off the bike. In summary, with float bowl empty (attached to carb --- one screw is sufficient) and clear tube affixed into bowl drain hole and held steady against top of bowl, and carbs level, turn on gas and watch as tube fills until gas quits flowing. The level inside the tube then matches the level inside the float bowl.

Great, will try this after the turkey day Thanks for the tip.

I found out that my plugs are already fouled to hell. I used a timing light just to see which cylinders were getting a spark. Cylinder #1 had no spark, cyl #2 had a really intermittant spark, cyl #3 was the only one that was consistantly lighting, and cyl #4 was a little sporadic also.

I noticed, on cyl #2, it would spark ONLY when I released the throttle and the rev's dropped. I'm guessing its too rich, because the mixture leans out upon deceleration?

when refilling the empty float bowl, keep the clear tube held up against the top edge of the bowl very still and immobile so the level iside the tube reflects the exact same level inside the float bowl -- if the tube moves, you may get a false reading. Of course, for an accurate check, the carbs must be kept level whether on or off the bike. In summary, with float bowl empty (attached to carb --- one screw is sufficient) and clear tube affixed into bowl drain hole and held steady against top of bowl, and carbs level, turn on gas and watch as tube fills until gas quits flowing. The level inside the tube then matches the level inside the float bowl.

I would like to see a picture of this if anyone does it and is able to take some. Please.

Here's a diagram which should give you the idea.
Next post a photo if I can find it.

Good luck

Photo

I can see clearly now...

Thanks for the pic.

Here's a noob question: Do I need plug caps on the new ignition wires? Or do the Dyna wires have built in resistors? Would this be the cause of my problems?

Thanks

masospaghetti wrote:

I found out that my plugs are already fouled to hell . . . . Do I need plug caps on the new ignition wires? Or do the Dyna wires have built in resistors? Would this be the cause of my problems?

Even with properly seated float needles in all 4 carbs so there is no fuel leakage dribbling from any float bowl overflow tube, a fuel level "too high" inside the float bowl may cause an overly rich mixture resulting in a sooty plug "fouled to hell." The float bowl fuel level should be checked for each carb and adjusted if necessary (some may be okay without any adjustment).


Your new Dyna plug wires most probably came with the correct plug caps already attached. Could be wrong, but don't believe the new Dyna plug wires and plug caps are contributing to the problem.