TOPIC:

I've never tightened my cam chain. I did that on my old 750 though - isn't it a bolt located underneath the carbs? I'll check it out for sure.

Thanks for the synching tip. I'm pretty much strapped for cash at the moment so i'll probably give your drill bit method a shot until I can afford a tester. I tried using oil in a tube but it was instantly aeriated and sucked into the cylinders.

longshanks: I've actually had cylinders 1, 2, and 4 give me problems. 1 and 4 are more often problematic than 2.

Today cyl #3 dropped out, so i've had all 4 cylinders go out at some point.

I have noticed they are not heating up evenly either, just by touching the pipes when the bike is first started cold. I'm guessing that this points away somewhat from an electrical problem?

Again, I appreciate the help.

del

masospaghetti wrote:

Thanks for the synching tip. I'm pretty much strapped for cash at the moment so i'll probably give your drill bit method a shot until I can afford a tester. I tried using oil in a tube but it was instantly aeriated and sucked into the cylinders.

When you hooked the oil tube synch to your intakes, was the bike shut off? Both ends need to be hooked up before the engine starts. And if you did it the proper way, and the oil still was sucked in one cylinder, then the carbs are way out of synch. Start with the drill bit method first, then use the oil tube, then I think you'll see much better results.

carbs out of adjustment will drop cylinders at idle. If the spark is weak you wont get anywhere. check the slides and the idle passages and the air screw adjustment. If compression is weak, it wont suck in enough fuel at idle. Check voltage to the coils, it must be at speck. Put a spark tester on the plug wire and check for weak orange spark. When a cylinder drops off pull the plug and check for wet or dry. If its wet go to the ignition, if dry go to the carb idle fuel and air adust. If all cylinders that drop have dry plug, synch the carbs. An accurate compression test will start you out. Broken or stuck piston rings will cause compression readings to vary up and down, cylinders to drop at random.

Yeah, probs not as simple, I had similar but it was just the diaphragm on the vacuum petrol tap, that tends to just drop #3, good luck:side:

OKC_Kent wrote:

masospaghetti wrote:

Thanks for the synching tip. I'm pretty much strapped for cash at the moment so i'll probably give your drill bit method a shot until I can afford a tester. I tried using oil in a tube but it was instantly aeriated and sucked into the cylinders.

When you hooked the oil tube synch to your intakes, was the bike shut off? Both ends need to be hooked up before the engine starts. And if you did it the proper way, and the oil still was sucked in one cylinder, then the carbs are way out of synch. Start with the drill bit method first, then use the oil tube, then I think you'll see much better results.

Well the oil was turned into foam almost instantly when the bike was started and sucked into both cylinders...I was just using 2-stroke oil. Engine was off when I hooked them up. Maybe a heavy gear oil would work better?

wiredgeorge wrote:

There is an interesting thread in the carb section started by KB02 you might want to look at. I suspect that if you start going through the same troubleshooting steps as he has undertaken, you will figure out your problem. If the bike has been "serviced" how much do you trust the place that did the service? Sounds like you may not trust them 100 percent.

Also, your jetting is lean for K&N pods. Should be a bit richer set of mains. What pilot jets are in there? If they are the stockers, the bike will be really hard to start and warm up real slowly. The BS carbs really like larger pilot jets when you remove the stock airbox and add pods. Which pipes do you have? Anyway, I am going to move this thread based on your answer.<br><br>Post edited by: wiredgeorge, at: 2006/10/13 07:51

125's are lean with pod filters? sorry, don't mean to hijack this thread..just a quick question. thanks.

Well the oil was turned into foam almost instantly when the bike was started and sucked into both cylinders...I was just using 2-stroke oil. Engine was off when I hooked them up. Maybe a heavy gear oil would work better?

Mmmm, maybe heavy oil is better. I used Auto tranny fluid. I had a 5 ft stick with maybe 3 feet of oil on each side. I don't remember it getting aerated that much, but it did a little.

Another way to do it is by placing a small clamp at the bottom of the oil filled hose, and squeezing it tight enough to act as a damper. I saw that method in another article on the 'net.

The oil is lighter than any mercury, so I would think that just getting the oil close to even on each side, maybe even an inch apart would be pretty darn good.

del

masospaghetti wrote:

Thanks for the synching tip. I'm pretty much strapped for cash at the moment so i'll probably give your drill bit method a shot until I can afford a tester. I tried using oil in a tube but it was instantly aeriated and sucked into the cylinders.

I decided to make up my own gage set. Picked up 4-2 1/2" 30# vac gauges for $14. on ebay tinyurl.com/u25fc . Just need to round up some restrictors and I should be ready.

Ok, here's the update...haven't had as much time as I would have liked to work on this.

Right now, only cylinder #4 will fire, and occasionally #3 will fire . Not sure what happened. Cylinder #2 had a break in the plug wire which I temporarily patched up (I have a new set of wires on the way), but it still will not fire.

All non-firing cylinders have wet plugs and a smell of gasoline. So, I've pretty much ruled out the carbs, has to be ignition, right?

What could cause cylinders #1, 2, and 3 all to not fire? The plugs are relatively new (about 4 months, tops).

I tested the coil's resistances and I found both were somewhat out-of-spec (11.49 Kohms, spec is 15 Kohms), so I have a new set of Dyna coils on the way, along with matching wires. Also finally shelled out for a $50 carb synchronizer.