1983 CSR (now SR resto'mod) 650 / cam chain tensioner

greetings from Whidbey Island WA .....I just ordered a new (factory, not manual) cam chain tensioner for my beloved 42 yr old 650, which I bought new in 1983, but have gone thru a few times, last time about 3 years ago extensively.....she has 67,300 original miles on her, but sports her factory cam chain and factory cam chain tensioner .....no real problems, or clinking or chattering or the norm when cold starting or cold idling but just a little bit so figured it was time to swap out the tensioner (oddly, the 650 big book simply says "79 and on has auto adjust cam chain tensioner" and gives zero remove & replace instructions)...she has CR smoothbores and it looks like I'll be able to get it swapped out without removing the carbs, we shall see ....my question: will I ever have to swap out the cam chain ? .....last time I had the engine off the frame was to do the starter clutch, that being about 27 years ago .....thanks for the info & assist 

There is no specified "mileage" for chain replacement (unlike a timing belt) but there is a "wear limit" specification in the FSM

Kawasaki states that the average life expectancy for the camchain is around 40k miles and the 75k on the primary in the factory service schedule.
This is subject to how well the engine has been maintained and the type of riding it has been subjected to.
At 63k i'd expect the camchain to be heading close to the wear limit if it's not already there or beyond  and i always replace original camchains as a matter of course especially when doing a full engine overhaul.

zed1015 wrote:

Kawasaki states that the average life expectancy for the camchain is around 40k miles and the 75k on the primary in the factory service schedule.
This is subject to how well the engine has been maintained and the type of riding it has been subjected to.
At 63k i'd expect the camchain to be heading close to the wear limit if it's not already there or beyond  and i always replace original camchains as a matter of course especially when doing a full engine overhaul.

Are you able to replace the chain with the top on and only remove the valve cover and the cams?

so guys, that OEM cam chain tensioner was NO GO, it's not stocked, PartZilla or any other classic Kaw parts suppliers, long gone for new OEM ones from Kawasaki .....I ordered both plungers and both springs and plan to simply rebuild mine .....since my engine is 1983, and the cam chain tensioner is supposed to be fully automatic by spring tension (per the big service book), I'm curious as to what the side bolt (OEM part number 92001-1155) is for ? ....I know its tip fits into the slot on the main tensioner push rod, but is this an actual adjustable thing ? if yes, nothing in my big book on how to adjust it, as the big book says 1979 and-on 650 engines have a fully self-adjusting cam chain tensioner .....it looks pretty cut n dry for how this is removed, cleaned, rebuilt with the 2 new push rods and 2 new springs, and reinstalled ....let me know anything I may NOT know or am missing here, thanks !

As others indicated the chain may be out of recommended life. Not sure that this will be of any help or not, but here are a couple of docs speaking about the stock adjusters for the 650s.

highly informative reply, thank you ! ....since my 650 engine is of the 1983 model year, and with Kawasaki revising the design at least 3 times for the auto tensioner, I'm not sure what plungers and, more importantly: springs PartZilla will be sending me but of course once the tensioner is of the engine & in pieces (but I did order what corresponded to my exact bike & motor: 1983 CSR 650 - H3, as far as there 2 plungers & 2 springs go), I'm assuming I'll know what's what comparing what got removed to what was sent to me as replacements ....I'm also assuming having to get the 1 & 4 to TDC is not required for my 1983 auto tensioner removal & rebuild, I can simply remove it and just make sure the engine internals do no advance nor move in any way .....correct ? ......looks like I'll have to get into my big book in the not too distant and see what is involved in replacing the cam chain, and of course I'm assuming the engine is off the bike and on my bench to do so .....correct ? thanks again !

I have found that the later model (82 and up) 650/750 OEM auto cam chain plunger parts can get wear grooves in the angled ends of the plungers. If the wear is significant it can cause the plungers to stick and not allow them to move forward automatically as intended. 

When removing the cams for shim service this inability to adjust may cause the cam timing to alter which could cause valve train damage. If you have doubts about the tensioner check the cam timing by hand several times before starting the engine.

The earlier model 650 tensioners seem to be the best as they do not employ the angled ends or multiple plungers. Kawasaki seemed to "over engineer" this part.

I have a '82 750 engine in my 650 and I ended up modifying the tensioner to work as a manual type instead of replacing the parts. I eventually replaced the bulky modified tensioner with a much smaller manual tensioner mainly for float bowl removal.
 

Keep in mind that one can convert the auto adjusters to manual, or there are several aftermarket manual units as well. Off the top of my head ape offers one.

 

Uncle Freddy wrote:

...I just ordered a new (factory, not manual) cam chain tensioner for my beloved 42 yr old 650, which I bought new in 1983, .... 
(oddly, the 650 big book simply says "79 and on has auto adjust cam chain tensioner" and gives zero remove & replace instructions...

... I'm curious as to what the side bolt (OEM part number 92001-1155) is for ? ....I know its tip fits into the slot on the main tensioner push rod, but is this an actual adjustable thing ?)

tensioner. the fsm has removal/installation/service-limit info. plus a number of cautions. there is an 81 pdf. the later supplements don't have any tensioner info.

bolt. no adjustment. the side bolt prevents the pushrod from falling into the engine. also, when valve cover is removed and crankshaft is turned, the pushrod will move forward. so before re-installing the valve cover, remove the cross-wedge. then install the cover. then re-install the cross-wedge and spring; be sure to do the check noted in the manual to verify it isn't sticking out too far. alternatively, before removing the valve cover. a longer dog bolt could be installed in place of the -1155 bolt to lock the pushrod. but even doing that, I would still remove the cross-wedge to reset the tensioner.

good morning & Happy Friday guys ....so, feedback & input has been great on this thread, highly appreciate you all chiming in on this .....so now I need an assist with my '83 650 cam chain tensioner "re-installation" ......see video below, volume up ....let me know ASAP on this as I'd like to have this all back together today, and once again: THANK YOU for the assists & help with this ! 

On the liter bikes, the cap and cross wedge have to be removed for installation. That allows the main plunger to fully retract.