Oil in the Air Box

Good to know, you can get a 200mm x 300mm sheet on Amazon for less than $10 

Ed said:
"How much oil?  Some light residue is normal.  A puddle, is not.  Also, what type of oil are you using?  It may be time for 20W-50, if you ride when it's warm."

I would run Rotella T4 20W50...but    

Do the spark plugs pictured below show evidence of oil consumption?

They look good but the uneven compression is suspect. Maybe some nice LONG rides?
Steve

Good suggestion...
  
There's still something left that needs to get rode out!

Good resolution but like Wookie mentioned, don't let that foam element get clogged/saturated whereas your crankcase ceases its ability to "breath". Kinda like those "cheap" little filters persons' used to use routed off that cap barb. Always messy and often clogged with dirt after oil misted them, a dirt magnet. Too bad they did away with the two tier baffling plates and tubes used on the early engines. I believe the premise would be steered more to "catch" the mist rather then filter on it's way out. A more "open cell' material. I rebuild a lot of Kohler, Kawasaki and Vanguard Briggs twin engines, 18-25hp versions. They use a cavity cup between the cylinders on the upper case that functions exactly the same. some have a reed pedal, some don't. But all have a filter element that is MUCH more course then air filter material and subsidized by a labyrinth of passages before it's rubber tubed into the back of the air filter cover. What does all this have to do with your situation you might ask? Regardless of Make/Model/displacement, they all use a material much less dense then air filter foam. Liken' it to fishing, catch and release. You're catching the Bigger droplets but still allowing the littler ones pass.      

Agree with Clay, I think effective breathing is often overlooked. Early VW diesels used to have an issue whereby poor maintenance would led to the breather getting clogged with carbon deposits and sludge. This then led to them drawing oil into the intake pipe. The engine then started to run on engine oil instead of diesel and as there was no regulation would run way into the red line uncontrollably until it sucked out all the oil and exploded. The only way to stop them was to put it in 5th gear hang on the E-brake with both hands and drop the clutch to "stall it"

But Wookie that's where all those entertaining videos of "runaway" diesels stem from, ha. Everyone runs away, scared of flying components. Got to thinkin? That filter material isn't going to survive in that environment very long before turning to mush. Here's "kinda" what you want if you were to pursue this train of thought. Although keep in mind Fully, this shouldn't be happening in the first place if you're getting puddles of oil out the airbox lower vent holes. This shown is just a strip of scotchbrite pad and it's even too fine grained.       

All that drains from the filter flows back to the oil pan through the passage at the back of the breather cavity. 

The older RamAir material used seems more porous (less restrictive perhaps?) than that used to make my newer sock filters, which may be less desirable for use in this application.



So far, so good!

I'll continue to monitor this mod for issues and provide updates as/if needed.

I would be afeared of that Scotchbrite stuff dropping abrasive into places it does not belong.

Me too Tex, that Scotchbrite was just to represent a more desirable material density, not application. They make material even more porous designed for this purpose but i wouldn't know where to get it in such large sheets? Good Luck DaveO!! 

Kitchen extractor hood filter sheets/fleece. they catch the cooking water steam and oil mist.