TOPIC:

Hey Everyone,
I'm having an issue getting my engine sprocket nut off (insert pun). Have tried heat, liquid wrench, breaker bar, and all the likes. I also have been using a clutch/flywheel holder to stop the sprocket from spinning...which hasn't exactly been useful. When I apply lots of torque to the nut with the breaker bar it ends up bending the ends of the flywheel holder and then nearly launching me and the wrench five feet. I'm stuck. So should I just cut off the bolt? It's in such a weird spot that if I cut the bolt with a wire wheel dremel I will probably end up cutting some of the splines of the bolt (output shaft) holding the nut on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Chris

Buy or borrow an impact torque gun. Fairly cheap and useful tool to have. Pretty much will undo any stuck bolts or nuts.

There's a trick using a bolt through the chain behind the swing arm. Maybe someone can post a pic of it.
Steve

These two methods? The first shows with engine in frame the second if the engine is out of frame. Ed

Not my pic but I saw this on another thread the other day:

I wouldn't do that with a chain I intended to use again! If the sprocket nut is very tight, as the op's is, the cylindrical shaft of the scew driver or bolt will put a dent in the chain rollers and totally screw it. You'll end up with pinch points in the chain and wear both sprockets prematurely.

Before cutting,grinding or whacking with a hammer,what direction is the thread on a front sprocket? Are you going the right way??

Warren3200gt wrote: I wouldn't do that with a chain I intended to use again! If the sprocket nut is very tight, as the op's is, the cylindrical shaft of the scew driver or bolt will put a dent in the chain rollers and totally screw it. You'll end up with pinch points in the chain and wear both sprockets prematurely.

If you use that method use an old chain that will never be used again. Ed

If you have cast wheels, you can stick a 2x2 or 2x4 through the wheel just above the swingarm.
The best solution is an impact wrench.

I've used a hammer and chisel to start to loosen and then holding it by being in gear and holding the rear brake and using a breaker. Harbor Freight sells a half way decent impact for cheap but then you need a costly socket too.

KZB2 650 wrote: I've used a hammer and chisel to start to loosen and then holding it by being in gear and holding the rear brake and using a breaker. Harbor Freight sells a half way decent impact for cheap but then you need a costly socket too.

The concern about using this method is that it puts stress on the rear brake and/or transmission. When using a length of chain around the counter sprocket and frame cross member the stress is confined to the countersprocket and frame. Of course the frame cross member is not affected and any affect on the countersprocket doesn't mean much if that's going to be replaced. Ed

Warren3200gt wrote: I wouldn't do that with a chain I intended to use again! ... will put a dent in the chain rollers and totally screw it. You'll end up with pinch points in the chain and wear both sprockets prematurely.

Hmmm...good point! Shoulda' kept that last ratty old chain... I can hear it now:
Z1BEBE - "Why is this ratty old chain on the shelf?!?"
slmjim - "It's a tool, intrinsically worth as much as a new chain!"
Z1BEBE - (rolls eyes) "Ummm... wut? "

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE