TOPIC:

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote:

Warren3200gt wrote: I wouldn't do that with a chain I intended to use again! ... will put a dent in the chain rollers and totally screw it. You'll end up with pinch points in the chain and wear both sprockets prematurely.

Hmmm...good point! Shoulda' kept that last ratty old chain... I can hear it now:
Z1BEBE - "Why is this ratty old chain on the shelf?!?"
slmjim - "It's a tool, intrinsically worth as much as a new chain!"

How true I bought a old cam chain off Ebay for 5 bucks shipped to hold my 650 cams for loosening and tightening up for the 750s.
Z1BEBE - (rolls eyes) "Ummm... wut? "

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

The photos in my reply above were lost, so here they are again.

"These two methods? The first shows with engine in frame the second if the engine is out of frame. Ed"

I'm pretty sure that it's a regular righty-tighty / lefty-loosy thread, as the book doesn't say that this is a left-hand threaded bolt. Still having issues and trying to avoid buying air compressor just yet. I've actually cut the chain already and have been using it for the unsuccessful bolt removal. Normally I'd just say screw it and continue on the rebuild, but I managed to break the bolts for the chain guide and some mounts for the Transmission Cover. One is now on order along with the gasket and the nut that's giving me so much issues.

I'll probably try AeroKroil next, I heard that's legit stuff. I did also try using a punch with a hammer on one side of the nut. No luck. I have a impact driver from DeWalt that's battery operated but nothing quite like a pneumatic gun. Fingers Crossed! Thanks for your help.

I have avoided buying battery-powered tools because they cost so much more than the air-powered version, but then last year I needed to get some used wheels for a car at a junk yard. It involved a long walk through the yard. Carrying heavy tools that far in the hot sun sucked, and in the end the wheels I really wanted were not going to come off. I tried to make-shift levers etc. from whatever was lying around but it didn't work. Luckily I found one wheel socked in oil that came off no problem, but it was a mess.

Later I went back with a Milwaukee battery-impact. It and a socket was all I carried in a backpack. The experience was night and day. It was so fun I actually busted loose a bunch of frozen lugs on few cars just to test it. The impact seemed like it was barely even trying. I should've tried to tighten some to see if I could bust the lugs off easily. (I don't think the junkyard would care...no one is buying rusted lugs there).

The thing is not cheap, but I'm a believer now.
Milwaukee model 2767-20. At the time I bought it, it was their most powerful model. Be aware they have a lot of lesser, look-a-like models. The battery is expensive, but you don't need the biggest battery if you are not using it all day long on a hundred cars. The battery never lost a single bar even after doing several wheels.

My days of hauling the air-hose out to the garage to do a brake job or swap wheels is done.

www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2767-20-Torque-...id=1575653363&sr=8-2

I got the tool, alone, on ebay brand new, and with a used battery and charger, I think I had everything for around $200. Buying all of that separately, new would be closer to $350.

Correct on the RH threads.

The trick to getting this nut off with an impact, is to have the sprocket locked up >solid< and tight. The manual suggest to just hold the rear brake to get the nut off, but this procedure is useless, unless it is already slightly loose.



A nut that's been on the bike for 40+years is not so cooperative. PLUS, the rear sprocket has rubber dampers incorporated into the sprocket to wheel connection that dampens the impact blows the same way it dampens the engine pulses. Once I bought some grade 8 bolts and got the sprocket solid,, the nut zinged right off slick as butter.

I switched to cordless power tools years ago haven't broken out the air tools in years. The best cordless impact one I have will break off studs with little effort. It's my go to for th at sprocket nut. Haven't found one yet that it won't spin off like nothing.

18 or 20v battery power impact will take it off like zero effort, or if still using air, the harbor freight earthquake stuff works fine. Days of putting wood through the wheel, tying the brake on, putting bolts through the chain and other things we did back in 1972 have been improved on.

Thanks for the pics and helpful information. I ended up going with the chain and grade 8 bolts with a piece of steel in between tightened down with nuts. WORKED! you realllllly need to have the sprocket completely motionless so that you can get maximum torque. I finally got my nut off. I'm a real boy.

That's great! It really does need to be locked up solid tight. I prefer to use the impact over a long bar because the impact is a short blip of massive torque compared to a steady pull from a breaker bar and cheater bar that would be more likely to break something off. The rubber sprocket damper counteracts the impact hammering pulses. In case no one noticed, my engine pictured is upside down on a 2 wheeled dolly. (the PO removed the engine)