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Engine case cleaning 01 Sep 2018 03:34 #790089

  • Ojisan rider
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Aloha guys.

Been collecting parts for my KZ rebuild and slowly but surely, collecting needed parts and I'm ready to re-assemble the engine, but one question before I start with this.

Just how do you clean the engine /crankcase? Do you guys take it to the shop or do you clean it yourself? External case is no problem. I have parts cleaner case and pressure washer if needed. I'm more concern of the internal, such as oil passage and such.

I do not have any plan to paint the engine, but if you guys suggest such as hot tank, which remove most of the paint, I will glass beaded first so hot tank will remove MOST of the glass beads, but if not, what would you suggest?

BTW, I DID use the search (how to clean engine) but it return with more than 1000 post and I did go through about 10 pages without finding what I'm looking for...........Maybe I should've use crankcase instead?
82' KZ750-R1 cafe racer style. Clip-on, Rear set, Fork-Brace, Mikuni Flat-slide (forgot the size), Kerker.
84' GPz750 (basket case). everything are in pieces.
89' ZX750-H1 (ZX-7 Ninja). Resurrection project are on going with my KZ750. Everything is stock.

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Engine case cleaning 01 Sep 2018 05:10 #790090

  • Nessism
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Solvent wash is all that's necessary. Use compressed air through the oil passages to assure they are open and clean out the solvent.

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Engine case cleaning 01 Sep 2018 06:08 #790094

  • bluej58
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I don't like to use harsh chemicals for the inside of my engines, I start with WD-40 to melt away the crud and use pieces of cut up cotton T-shirt and a set of hemostats to dig stuff out of the corners. www.kzrider.com/forum/6-paint-a-bodywork...aint-stripper#710745
I also use Rotella 15W-40 motor oil mixed with Marvels mystery oil to flush out the gears and coat everything inside.
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/607497-so...engine-stupid#779325

If you are planning on leaving the out side natural I recommend (not) using a blasting media because I believe that it moves/changes the surface of the aluminum and makes it more open to oxidation.
I had a head rebuilt and didn't know that the person was going to blast the outside, it came back super clean and beautiful but started to oxidize right away.
I have been polishing it every Winter trying to close it up ever since.

Mid summer I spray the cold engine down with an engine cleaner, scrub it with a nylon brush and rinse it off, let it dry, take it for a ride , once it cools down I use those cotton squares dipped in WD-40 to condition the engine surfaces, don't soak it! use just enough to lightly coat the surface.
Works for me anyway.
It keeps the oxidation at bay and I really like the way my engine looks, not new but 40 years old and clean, most of the time :P
78 KZ1000 A2A

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Last edit: by bluej58.

Engine case cleaning 01 Sep 2018 06:30 #790095

  • z1kzonly
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Just use your parts cleaning tank or solution to clean out inside, as the outside.
Never bead blast without cleaning 1st! Clean 1st to remove any oils. glass bead would stick to the oily residue in small oil passages.

Or, a can of spray "GUNK" been around for years! And a trip to the quarter car spray wash if you have one near you.

Or pay the man! And have it professionally Vapo-Blasted or Soda Blasted.
Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
More room for The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!

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Engine case cleaning 01 Sep 2018 11:01 #790105

  • old_kaw
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I would not recommend glass bead for anything internal to ANY engine. The glass embeds into the metal then gets released into the oil with heat cycles.. It will wipe out a fresh motor bearings in short order, depending upon how much bead is still hiding in the cases.

Been there, done that. Like Ed and several others pointed out..

Internal parts only need solvent wash or possible soda blast, if deemed necessary for that brand new look.

I use the mineral spirits paint thinner from HD for cleaning solvent. It has almost the same chemical makeup of high$$ solvents and a slightly better MSDS heath rating to boot. (never use gasoline, unless you like flames and explosions, and 3rd degree burns)
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.

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Last edit: by old_kaw. Reason: hmmmmm

Engine case cleaning 01 Sep 2018 12:37 #790113

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I have been glass beading my parts for 30 years. Everything I build. I use the super fine micron bead.

Also I use solvent from "Tractor Supply Store' Might not be around the whole Nation?
$42 bucks for 5 Gallons
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/crown-...r-5-gal?cm_vc=-10005
Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
More room for The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!

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Engine case cleaning 01 Sep 2018 12:50 #790114

  • old_kaw
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z1kzonly wrote: I have been glass beading my parts for 30 years. Everything I build. I use the super fine micron bead.

Also I use solvent from "Tractor Supply Store' Might not be around the whole Nation?
$42 bucks for 5 Gallons
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/crown-...r-5-gal?cm_vc=-10005


I shucked a freshly rebuilt SBC crank when I was in college (2 year college auto mechanics course). It didn't go 100 miles before the glass bead ate the bearings. (against my instructor's advice) What works for you might not turn out so well for others. (lots of little cracks and crevices) Anyone considering glass bead blasting internal engine parts, should know the possible pitfalls. Soda is water soluble and will not eat bearings.

Mineral spirits is ~7.95 (?) a gallon at HD. 7.95X5=$39.75 readily available everywhere in this area.

Pick your posion. You will be the one paying for the repair. :-)

Harbor Freight 40 LB soda blaster.
1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
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Last edit: by old_kaw. Reason: proofreading is a good thing. :-)

Engine case cleaning 02 Sep 2018 16:31 #790172

  • Ojisan rider
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Thanks guys for all the input.

I wasn't thinking of bead blasting of the internal. Just external of the case, only IF you guys recommend hot tanking, and hot tanking only.

For most part, like many of you guys, I'm not a fan of harsh chemicals on aluminum/engine. Guess parts washing bin, mineral spirits and some brake cleaner will be my best friends for next few weeks.

God..............I envy you guys. Because of where I live most of the stuff you guys use or recommend, such as solvents or paint, are not available here or something rather hard to get as most of the mainland stores are not here. Autozone just open here recently, but most of the stuff car guys recommend are not available here. So you guys can imagine just how hard to get some of the MOTORCYCLE stuff ! (or tractor, or boats, or.............You get the idea)
82' KZ750-R1 cafe racer style. Clip-on, Rear set, Fork-Brace, Mikuni Flat-slide (forgot the size), Kerker.
84' GPz750 (basket case). everything are in pieces.
89' ZX750-H1 (ZX-7 Ninja). Resurrection project are on going with my KZ750. Everything is stock.

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Engine case cleaning 02 Sep 2018 19:27 #790180

  • Nessism
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You can use simple green and water to clean the cases. Don't even need solvent.

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Engine case cleaning 02 Sep 2018 19:30 #790181

  • Nerdy
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Ojisan rider wrote: Because of where I live most of the stuff you guys use or recommend, such as solvents or paint, are not available here or something rather hard to get as most of the mainland stores are not here.


I lived in Hawai'i for a few years (on Oahu, 20+ years ago), and we had Napa auto parts stores in addition to smaller independent shops. Are you on a different island?
1979 KZ400 Gifted to a couple of nephews
1967 Yamaha YCS1 Bonanza
1980 KZ440B
1981 Yamaha XT250H
1981 KZ440 LTD project bike
1981 GPz550
2013 Yamaha FZ6R

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Engine case cleaning 02 Sep 2018 22:30 #790184

  • old_kaw
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Nessism wrote: You can use simple green and water to clean the cases. Don't even need solvent.


True that! A 2400 psi pressure washer and simple green or engine degreaser will flat clean the stuff up. You may need to clamp it down to something, but I usually just try to lay the stuff on plywood or something, and try not to blast it across the street. :-)

1981 Kawasaki Kz1000K1
Located in the Saint Louis, Missouri Area.
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Engine case cleaning 03 Sep 2018 16:04 #790254

  • Ojisan rider
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Nerdy wrote: I lived in Hawai'i for a few years (on Oahu, 20+ years ago), and we had Napa auto parts stores in addition to smaller independent shops. Are you on a different island?


You should come back and see what's available here now. We do have NAPA, but they all carry the same thing, Redline Automotive is gone, so are most of the smaller independent mom & pop stores. We have some of the bigger parts chain stores, but lacks lotta choices. We have a choice of few brands of oil, ATF, just to name a few.

I once needed a alternator for 93' Chevy Caprice and went to NAPA online to buy it. Very next day, I got a call from NAPA stating that the alternator I bought is not available on the island, and needed to wait about a month, if not longer to get it if I don't want to pay for shipping.

Yes, I remember the good ol' days too where I can pretty much go to any store and buy what I wanted. If not available, I just needed to wait few days to get it. Chemicals included. Not any more..................

BTW, I do live on Oahu. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough.
82' KZ750-R1 cafe racer style. Clip-on, Rear set, Fork-Brace, Mikuni Flat-slide (forgot the size), Kerker.
84' GPz750 (basket case). everything are in pieces.
89' ZX750-H1 (ZX-7 Ninja). Resurrection project are on going with my KZ750. Everything is stock.

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