clutch

dynastydudge wrote: ok it was puzzling me too, and i dont know what happened. but, i just went out in the garage and it went into first gear. so, that mystery is solved, but, i pulled in the clutch and first gear was still ingaged. so the clutch will need adjusted. thanks for the replies

Often, when a cold engine is first started, the clutch plates remain "stuck together" even though the handlebar clutch lever is being squeezed, and the bike gives a nice lurching clunk when pressed from neutral into low gear. Then the plates break loose from one another and the problem disappears and doesn't recur until the next cold engine start-up.

Would suggest performing the clutch push rod adjustment when the engine is warm and the clutch has been used a few times and the transmission has been shifted through the gears while riding.

This should help assure that the clutch is in its most normal running environment when the push rod adjustment is performed.

Good Fortune!

Would this apply to the '82 750 LTD as well? Its a new to me bike with 10k on the clock and there is some slip when in 5th gear and roll on to 1/2 throttle or more.

While it is better to start another thread, this clutch push rod adjustment should be checked. Back off the cable adjustment then do the pushrod. Then readjust the cable. If the pushrod is to tight, no freeplay, then the clutch is likely to slip. But you may also need a fresh set of clutch plates and springs. Don't run oil with friction reducers such as the 5w-30's. There are several "Oil" threads.

Julian@MotoCARR wrote: Would this apply to the '82 750 LTD as well? Its a new to me bike with 10k on the clock and there is some slip when in 5th gear and roll on to 1/2 throttle or more.

According to kawasaki.com, the '82 750 LTD does have an adjustment for the clutch push rod.

Proper adjustment often supplies the necessary gap to prevent clutch slippage.







Am uncertain but thinking the '82 750 LTD has the Ball and Ramp style adjuster.

On some models the manual is confusing or incorrect with instructions about the adjustment.

Here are some details ---

Routine clutch push rod adjustment.

Assure having some "slop" in the clutch cable, using adjustments at the handlebar lever perch and at mid-cable along left frame down tube near the exhaust header.

Removing the access plate should reveal the adjustment screw and lock nut.

First, slightly loosen the lock nut.

The hidden end of the screw interfaces with the push rod.

The basic idea is to lightly seat the screw against the push rod, then back the screw 1/4 turn away from the push rod, to thereby provide a small gap between end of screw and push rod.

Here's a possible snag ---
The screw is part of an actuator assembly.
On some designs (screw-type), the screw turns clockwise to seat before turning counter-clockwise to provide the gap.
On other designs (ball and ramp), the screw turns counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap.

Will now speculate that the bike at hand has the ball and ramp style, whereby the screw turns counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap. But I might be wrong. So if it doesn't work that way, adjust it the other way.

Remember to snug the lock nut before finishing. Just snug is plenty tight enough.

Lastly, reduce "slop" in the cable to produce desired amount of free play in the lever at the perch.

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kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...limitstart=20#429567

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With the clutch lever released (not being squeezed), the clutch is supposed to be fully engaged (plates pressed tightly together).
If the gap isn't there, the plates can't fully press together, which causes the clutch to "slip."

With the clutch lever squeezed, the clutch plates are supposed to be separated. When squeezed, the gap disappears and the push-rod is pressed inward to press the plates apart, overcoming the spring pressure, and thereby disengaging the clutch.

Too much gap wastes clutch lever movement as too much lever travel is expended to simply close the gap before starting pressure against the push-rod. Whereby the clutch may only partly disengage when the lever is fully squeezed, and produce the sensation of a "sticky" or "grabby" clutch.

Way too much gap may waste all the clutch lever movement, as all the lever travel is expended to simply close the gap, with no movement left to exert pressure against the push-rod.

No gap or too little gap may over-stress the actuator assembly when the clutch lever is squeezed and cause the actuator assembly to pop apart.

It's important to know exactly how to set the required gap.
The general rule is to lightly close the gap, then back off ¼~½ turn.
On some models the gap is closed by turning the adjustment screw clockwise. But on other models the gap is closed by turning the adjustment screw counter-clockwise.

Mistaking which direction to turn the adjustment screw could for example start with the gap wide open instead of lightly seated.

The above illustration is to help visualize what is supposed to happen as the mechanisms engage and disengage the clutch.

Good Fortune!

You sir were spot on! My '82 750 LTD was counter clockwise to tighten, and 1/4 turn clockwise to set gap. All good now!