Rythmic ticking.... 750-4

Just the external tensioning bolt is all you need.

For an overhaul I used all the APE parts I could for the rollers and the tensioner assembly. That stuff is bullet proof, its a bit spendy, and it will be louder than the stock parts but it was a no brainer in my book.

kzzone.com/sprockets.html

Scroll down on this page and you will see the parts for the cam chain. I used all the roller sprockets and the tensioner assembly. The top roller ( the one between the cams) he has listed there won't fit the 650, I used a stock part for that. Nice stuff and better than scrounging for NOS parts or using used stuff.

The 750-4 doesn't have the roller between the cams, just a pad/bumper thing on the bottom side of the cam cover. there is a guide in the front in the head and the tensioner. It's actually the same as my 82 550 I believe.

Ok, only the early 750's had a roller chain. The slide type guides are much better IMO and its obvious why kawasaki went to the Hy-vo chain. In the 650 the rubber roller on the tensioner arm can break, and it ends up in the pieces laying in the oil pan. The slide type are simple, cheap, and have a longer service life. IMO anyways.

You should be fine with the APE part, you'll never have to worry about it letting go.

When installing the manual tentioner, dont bother with thier "set to TDC, then finger tighten and forget it", its BS and doesnt set it correctly in comparison to the old wedge type.

Set the crank to TDC, then tighten with fingers until the tentioner stops (gentle pressure like your throttle grip at cruise), then begin turning the crank over (forward as usual with 17mm socket), and the tentioner will easily and loosely begin to turn in further taking up the spaces in the chain slack, even with just slight turning/finger pressure. Continue to turn over the crank several times with gentle finger pressure on the tentioner and you will feel when it has taken all the slack, and needent go any further.

You will immediately know if you tighten it too far past the point of just continuous friction, because you will feel the change in pressure required to turn the crank.

you're basically recreating what the old spring tentioners did when the engine was being started. Slowly maintaining pressure, continuously throughout the travel of the cam chain, not just at TDC! :laugh:

Sounds a little difficult, I know, but you'll get it as soon as you try, its really fairly easy, and its ok to be a small amount over tight, as things loosen up at temp and will stretch into place with some miles.

Also, if your old tentioner was wack, the new one will add some pep back to your bike by bringing the cam timing closer to stock.

Good luck!

Hi Everyone, update on the ticking... I went ahead and replaced my chain tensioner. But, do to weather and a broken throttle cable, I have been garaged... So, I was messing with my tensioner tonight getting it just right, and the bike started to tick once it warmed up! I managed to grab some video of it. It ticks about 5s, 11.5s, 20s and 27.5s.



So, I started trying to get an idea where it was coming from, but when I thought it was upper left side of motor, it sounded like by the starter. I put my melon down there, and it sounds like its upper right. I got up there...and you get the picture.

I still have not yet taken my smog system off. I was trying to eliminate one thing at a time. I also was not able to adjust my tensioner to see if that was the cause because I managed to run outta gas while trying to find where it was coming from.

But, I can tell you this, it did it after it warmed up. I set the tensioner, tightened it down, messed around with a few other things and after about 5 min of idling it started to tick.

Any ideas???? See how rythmic it is and seems too slow to really be associated with anything in the cam system.

BTW, sorry for the video shakiness... I was in a hurry to capture it before it stopped doing it!

I had a listen, and it sounds like from the valve train. Strange it comes and goes at nearly the same gap in time. Anyway you said all the valve clearance is in spec. Have you adjusted any of them? As this requires removal of the cams, shim on bottom. Other than maybe something strange with your tach gear, or maybe the 2 rubber dampers on the rear chain guide lower pivot, I would think something with the valve shim clearance. Do you have a stethoscope or a piece of hose to hold to you ear to try and pin it down closer to 1 area, top or rear?

Well, valves were in spec a year ago...that was at 15k. I put 2k more on, but I would think that should still be ok. I can check them again, thats not too bad.

And yes, I did have to adjust some of them when I did it last year (or maybe it was the one before? hehe). I can get a stethoscope from a guy at work. He uses to to check steam traps and other crap at work.

Tomorrow I'll do the same thing I did tonight (but with more gas) and trying adjusting the chain tensioner to see if that affects it at all. I sure hope it isn't the guides, because I really don't want to pull the head/jugs because rings are so damn expensive/hard to find.

Wouldn't you think noise from the valves would be much faster than what it is? Maybe tomorrow I will try and rev it a big during the ticking to see if it affects it. It's done this since I had it...but I want it to stop.

What do those reed valves sound like? At all similar?

If its done it since you've had it and nothing you've done has changed it, then before tearing into it I would really try to pin down the area. Listen to the upper chain guide at the top of the valve cover, listen at the Tach drive, listen at each one of the valves. Maybe pull the tank and run a longer hose for the fuel, so you can access better. A 3/8" fuel line about 3' in your ear will pick up more than the borrowed scope.

good video matey, hope you get it sorted soon!
is there a benefit of taking off the smog system and using blank off plates?
sorry to thread crash.

yes, showing the government that they can't control our smog! It gives a little more room up in front by the motor too. It's not like it's a great system anyway. I Just filled my ports on The valve cover with JB weld because I'm super classy like that.

Well, did some work just now. It changes frequency with rpms, I THINK it's on the driver side...maybe intake side. Cam chain tension made no difference. Took forever for it to do it. Its barely 50 here today so maybe it took a while to warm up, but I was starting to think the bastard wasn't going to do it now.

Anyways, I am in the process of pulling cam cover to inspect valve clearances and take a look at my buckets and shims. Aside from the obvious scrapes/burs and other damage, anything I should keep an eye out for?

Also, any chance this is an electrical tick? My left coil has a crack in it, I sealed it up with RTV and have been too much of a tightass to buy a new one. Maybe the coil is warming up and making some noise?

Just check clearances
1 2 3 4
out .15 .15 .15 .15
in .1 .1 .15 .13

Some of these were a loose .15, so maybe .16 or .17. My manual calls for 0.08-.18.

Now, if my clearances were on the loose side, they would make some noise, but shouldn't it get a little quieter once things expand with the heat?