And finally, Wookie's 82 begins !

I've had a cold day on the lathe today (2 degrees) making push fit plastic plugs ready for blasting next week I like to minimise as much as possible blast media getting inside

I did hear you guys had a cold spell over there, good for you that you could still get some work in on your project. 

It was -3C here today with blowing snow, shoveled about 6CM of snow from the drive. No work on anything today other than a cup of tea with some biscuits

Hi Wookie,
good Idea and job, ... take care before, is better than a pottfull of angry after!
BTW: Last 2 nights it was -12°  to-15°C here, day was -9°C...but i´ve had handled all the snow here in front of the garages, was about 40cm high on 10x11 meters..

MFP-Joe wrote:

Hi Wookie,
good Idea and job, ... take care before, is better than a pottfull of angry after!
BTW: Last 2 nights it was -12°  to-15°C here, day was -9°C...but i´ve had handled all the snow here in front of the garages, was about 40cm high on 10x11 meters..

We had it easy, only -5 here on Friday and around 10cm of snow

You cats and your sub-zero temperatures, getting the chills just thinking of it, burrr. Wookie i see you took the butterfly shafts out, are your one-way seals (2-per shaft) still supple and lip not cracked when squeezed? Kawasaki never offered them but Suzuki did, just in case. Personally when i blast carbs i don't concern myself with media getting inside. Just make sure the galleys are dry before doing it, don't want it to cake-up. I use a power washer with water to blast off all the stuff. With 1000psi of water flowing nothing escapes removal. You can witness flow of water coming out of the pilot bypass and air correction jets also choke so you can easily tell if something isn't right. Of course considering your outside temps this won't be practical, sorry.  

asphalt900 wrote:

Wookie i see you took the butterfly shafts out, are your one-way seals (2-per shaft) still supple and lip not cracked when squeezed? Kawasaki never offered them but Suzuki did, just in case. Personally when i blast carbs i don't concern myself with media getting inside. Just make sure the galleys are dry before doing it, don't want it to cake-up. I use a power washer with water to blast off all the stuff. With 1000psi of water flowing nothing escapes removal. You can witness flow of water coming out of the pilot bypass and air correction jets also choke so you can easily tell if something isn't right. Of course considering your outside temps this won't be practical, sorry.  

Thanks Clay, the seals are a little hard and also really loose on the shafts (no surprise after 40 years and would probably create air leak issues if left) I have been on that merry go round ref seals (apparently they used to be available for the later "P" models) I read that Yamaha seals fit but then I found a post on a Yamaha forum that (as you say) suggested the Suzuki seals also fit. With me being "cheap" the Suzuki parts at half the price of the Yamaha ones looked really attractive so that is what I ordered last week (should be here in the coming days) The body's have had a good soak in the ultrasonic bath and been blown out with compressed air (which I will do again after blasting) I intend to give them a coat of Cerekote aluminium clear which should make them easier to keep clean afterwards 

From earlier in your thread :

28 Sep 2025 14:20
"I have also used "shielding on the looms where they run over the coils so that hopefully the EMF from the coils doesn't cause "instrument or LED flicker"

 

I was wondering if you covered the tinned copper sheath with a black PVC sheath, or its just bundled to hide the "silver"? 

I ask because I am looking to use some tinned copper wire covering on a portable AFR meter I have, and also use the same on a upcoming DFI build.
Not too crazy on the silver as its stands out too much next to a stock wire harness.

Fantastic build thread so far!
 

Injected wrote:

From earlier in your thread :

28 Sep 2025 14:20
"I have also used "shielding on the looms where they run over the coils so that hopefully the EMF from the coils doesn't cause "instrument or LED flicker"

I was wondering if you covered the tinned copper sheath with a black PVC sheath, or its just bundled to hide the "silver"? 

I ask because I am looking to use some tinned copper wire covering on a portable AFR meter I have, and also use the same on a upcoming DFI build.
Not too crazy on the silver as its stands out too much next to a stock wire harness.

Fantastic build thread so far!

 

The black "braided" sleeve is over the top of the silver to keep it all looking subtle  

Thanks for clarifying that.

I sort of thought that is what you had done, but just wanted to double check in case there was some black colored sheath I was unaware of.

I think I need to do this to my AEM AFR meter wiring as it goes from the handle bar over the coils to the back of the stock wire harness to get power.

Not really sure yet on the DFI build as I reviewed my mockup pics and the majority of the wiring to the ECU is contained under the battery box and all the sensor wires are under and to the back of the coils. The gauges on that build are a Acewell unit that has been modified to plug into the stock harness in the headlamp shell.

 

To be fair it may be an "extravagance" but wasn't expensive, I have speedo and tach signals for the ZX6R clocks, the data wire from my narrow band lambda sensor (lambda 1 is 200mv - 800mv so any induced voltage will effect the reading) and a "lin-bus" data wire from a unit in the front connector station to the Axel Joost control box (handlebar switches operate the D-box via a single wire) all of which run directly on top of the coils. During this build I have tried to anticipate potential issues and resolve along the way (maybe )