Project Fankenstein's Monster

Hi Dee, in the first instance do you know the origin of the parts on your bike (switch gear etc) White/Red is normally the main supply to the fusebox. (how much of the original electrical system remains ??)

That is a fantastic question - and I don't know the answer - my guess is that the loom belongs to the bike frame - which is a 1982 GPZ1100

The only alternative is that the loom got swapped in with the engine which came from a 1983 GPZ1100

You know what though Wookie - I haven't even confirmed that the switchgear is GPZ - the front end on this bike came from a GSXR from a year that is yet to be determined so it's possible that the switchgear is Suzuki

I definitely have much more investigating to do! 

There is a white/red on the diagram going directly to the fuse box from the battery - but do you see the other white/red that just terminates into a white plug? 

With regards the White/Red there are 2 options (USA or Europe) as you are running carbs in both cases these "spare" white and reds can be insulated and forgotten about as long as you have power at the fuse box

That's really helpful Wookie - thank you - do you know when access to the Filebase will be up and running again? 

No worries - ref the filebase your guess is as good as mine, Bill has been having a nightmare with this software update

Hi all, I have to admit that this bike just defeated me in 2024 - but I'm back at it with a renewed and probably misplaced sense of optimism and enthusiasm - even though I have now idea what loom is currently on the bike - I have also recently learned that the switch gear is off a Triumph - which explains why those wire colours don't match anything in my diagram!

I'm fairly convinced that my Dyna S Ignition timing plate is shorted or fried - if I put 12v to the red lead and then touch the negative to either white or black I get 12v showing on my multi meter - which to the best of my knowledge is not what it should be doing.

Does anyone here have a full proof step by step guide for testing a Dyna S Ignition plate to ensure its fully operational?  
 

Connect it back up as it should be then take an LED test light ( around a tenner on Amazon) connect across the coils one at a time (positive to feed side, negative to Dyna side) crank the engine- if the Dyna (or any other electronic ignition) is working the LED will pulse during cranking (assuming you have ignition live to the positive side) all the Dyna does is switch a ground on and off