TOPIC:

Thorman when you get around to cleaning up your float valves, I've had good luck using a Q-tip dipped in a little bit of mothers mag polish to polish up the brass part of the valve. IIRC the needles on the 305 use a rubber tip so once you get the brass seat all polished up you should be golden.

I bought a set of metric o-rings from Harbor Freight for like $9. There were some in there similar to the one in the petcock (seemed close enough)) at least it seems to work. My petcock still leaks a little (but not around the area i put in the new o-ring). There were also some in there that fit the T fitting that goes between the two carbs. I had to buy new float valves and pilot jet plugs for mine. The float needle valves were only like $8 something a set from a local bike shop. Gringo, I like the tip on polishing the valve with mothers and a q-tip, may try that next time.

best plumbing supply company has an 'o' ring set that's pretty comprehensive. we use it at work (i'm a maintenance mechanic). the one that was the right diameter was a little too thick (3/32, i think.) i went with one that was a little smaller in diameter and only 1/16 thick. i had to stretch it a little to get it over the petcock armature (or whatever you call it). it seems like it will work pretty good - i'll let ya'll know how it holds up. i took a rust-remover pad and got rid of some rust bubbles on the tank. then i removed the kawisaki badges and taped up the petcock and gascap. i shot the whole tank with black primer for the time being to inhibit further rust. next payday, i'll buy a small can of bondo and make it real smooth before shooting it with a gloss black to match the original paint.

the bike is at home, but i can only work on components during my lunch hour at work. i can't get 15 minutes alone with her when i'm home because i have a 4 week old daughter.
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the gastank had a few rust bubbles and a denton each sidefrom contact with the handlebars. i hit itwith arust remover pad, then an application of body filler. once sanded, the dent on the left side wasstill not completely gone, so i hit that spot again. i sanded first with 60 grit, then 160, then 220, then 600. then it got shot with black primer. i'm pretty pleased with the results for now. once i determine whether i am going to do a restoration to the original black with the kawasaki badges, or a customization with either US flag or USMC graphics(and the badge mounts filled in), i will shoot/sand/shoot/sand another couple coats of primer.

Post edited by: Thorman944, at: 2007/04/18 16:33
Post edited by: Thorman944, at: 2007/04/18 16:37

Post edited by: Thorman944, at: 2007/04/18 16:38

before primer

all back together (with the exception of the mirrors - which i have and one needs new glass, and the airbox - for which i am going to get aftermarket aircleaner assemblies). tank turned out pretty good.

time to start her up...

the GOOD: i was pretty confident that she would start and run but maybe hesitate a little. i did have to hit it with a shot of starter fluid (but only one small squirt to each carb), and she started right up.

the BAD: tachometer is non-functional. (which means i have to guess at the RPM). idles OK, but at what seems like 3000 to 4500 RPM, sputters bad and increasing the throttle doesn't help.

i'm not sure right now if it's an issue with one or both coils or if something in the carbs isn't flowing freely.

does anybody have an educated guess before i tear down the carbs (for the second time) or buy some coils? or am i just trying to move too fast with a bike that sat for 2 years?

update on the jury rigged petcock - works perfectly. no leaks at all now.

Post edited by: Thorman944, at: 2007/04/18 20:42

Post edited by: Thorman944, at: 2007/04/18 20:43

ok, petcock no longer leaked externally, but would still drip gas into the carbs when in the 'off' position.

that wouldn't have been a big deal IF both float valves were working. one was sticking, so i flooded the cylinder. oops.

tear carbs apart again, jets clogged again. discovered little pin stuck pushed all the way in on the end of the float valve. clean carbs again.

change the oil and start her up. runs good for a few minutes, then dies.

got ticked off and had some beers

tried again the next day with same results - runs good, then dies.

bite the bullet and have library get a motorcycle repair book transferred from another branch.

discover that bike is running rich. runs great cold and dies when warm. also discover that prior owner didn't believe in cleaning carbs. apparently when carb passages became partially restricted, he just cranked the fuel screws open. right side only out about 1 turn past factory. left side 4 full turns past factory. yikes!!!

had a friend who once repaired bikes for a living stop by this past weekend. he determined that tank wasn't clean enough, so we did the full Kream treatment. ($40.00 yikes!!). tank has cured and carbs cleaned (again). hopefully i can get carbs and tank back on in the next few days. and give her a try.