TOPIC:

Yes, go past TDC and stop. If you feel it turning back keep going until it doesn't.
Steve

Steve, When you say " if you feel it turning back keep going until it doesn't" You mean when the crank wants to go counterclockwise ( back ) opposite of forward clockwise motion? So really as the FSM states it doesn't have to align at TDC marks as indicated in the procedure?

One cylinder will have compression, that's why I do it that way. TTYL
Steve

Steve, Today I was able to pull the starter clutch assembly off the bike. To remove the starter bolt, I used a Harbor freight 3/4" wide rubber strap wrench. Worked perfectly enough to hold tension on the rotor to keep it turning. Next I used the ball bearing and bolt/puller method you outline and with strap wrench again, came right off.

Now here's what I have. First the 3 clutch allen head bolts were loose. Removed them and threads are gone near the top of the socket. Though they will tighten down, like to replace them. Does anyone have them or can they be found at a Hardware Store? Kawasaki thru Parzilla shows them available # 120P0816., but can they be found anywhere else? They are an 8mm x 16mm allen head bolt.

The dowel pin that locates the clutch to the rotor was in 2 pieces, so that needs to be replaced. It's a 6mmx22mm pin but is Not Available, part obsolete? Where can I find one of those?

One of the stater clutches small hollow roll pins that the spring goes inside off was missing a side piece of it. All 3 springs where of different lengths, but have I already the rebuild kit for that.

All of the other pieces appear to be in good shape.

So, this is where I'm at. Dowel Pin and Socket-Bolts. Anyone out there have access to them?

That's common. You can get hardened bolts at Fastenal or maybe the HDWR store. The pin breaks because there's only one of them but the rotor has three holes in it but not the clutch or the plate. I took a #8 hardened bolt ant cut off the head and threads to make my own. I may have three allen's around if you can't find them. Is there any slop in the rotor? Pics?
Steve

Not sure what you mean by slop, but what are you looking for?

The needle bearing , 22mm bronze colored washer, and seal all appear to be good.

The rotor holding the magnets is aluminum. The hub it is cast around is steel. It can get loose there.
Steve

Steve, I threaded the 3 bolts without the clutch assembly back into the back side of the rotor. You can rock the center hub back and forth a little inside the the outer aluminum rotor holding the magnets? Is this normal?

Kawasaki does have the 3 clutch allen bolts but have to ordered. $3.00 a piece. Seems pricey? No dowel pin though.

No it's not.
Steve

I thought so. If you look at the backside of the rotor when the allen head bolts go , there are cracks that surround the bolt holes that make a 3 sided sort of triangle around all 3 bolt holes? The cracks are large enough which follow the triangular line or shape on the back side of the generator that allow that assembly to rock inside.

Common issue. If you buy used, you have to make sure it isn't that way ether. Paiidin sold me one like that, said he had another one but didn't get back to me. I needed the clutch so I didn't file a complaint. I should have.
Steve

Steve, Well it's been a learning experience and am enjoying doing the work with good info from you and others. Sorry about your dilemma.

If anyone else has a good used generator rotor, please chime in !!!