TOPIC:

I plan on removing the cam chain tensioner in the next couple of days and see if it is fully extended.

Just you get a chance and make an educated guess to see if I should invest in a starter clutch rebuild kit or just a starter?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationSounds like the starter is OK. The rollers in the clutch could have flat spots or the springs could be weak or both. Every chance I get I buy a whole unit on eBay. I have springs, rollers etc. just in case.
To be prepared you might pick this up or something like it.
Steve

My bike is a 77' KZ1000A. I wonder if this kit listed on eBay will fit my year and model of bike ? Price is certainly right, Have you used this kit and what is the quality of the product?

That was a example. Looks good to me. They are the same to 79 by the book. That's why I don't think you have a automatic adjuster. A pic of would be helpful.
Steve

Steve,, My Cam Chain Tensioner in the back of the cylinders below the carbs. definitely has the locknut and bolt on the left side of it. I'm sure it's an automatic one with the spring inside. I have a FSM revised in Sept. 77' and on page 14 on the engine adjustment procedures, it's exactly the one pictured in the procedure to adjust the cam chain. But I'll try to take a picture to post. My bike was produced 3/77.

Even though that stater clutch kit is marketed thru Ideal Engine Parts LTD in Taiwan, it's less than 1/2 the cost of Kawasaki NOS Japan. Makes me wonder about the quality though?

If it has a long bolt and a lock nut on the side, it is a manual one. For $20 I don't see how you can go wrong.
Steve

The adjuster is auto.
So READ YOUR MANUAL FIRST.
Loosen the locknut, unscrew the bolt a bit and the spring loaded plunger pushes the roller bracket and wheel into the chain.

I guess I need to understand the terminology better. Even though the adjustment procedures call to stop at TDC when adjusting the cam chain, I just thought when you loosen the locknut and back out the bolt, the spring pushes the plunger which in turns contact the chain under tension. Therefore I thought the tensioner was referred to as automatic.

Will order clutch stater kit tomorrow as well a 16mm bolt/puller.

Thanks Again of all the Help !!!

I don't depend on that. I turn the crank to a spot it won't turn backwards, then loosen the bolt. You can hear it snap into place, that is if there's any adjustment left.
Steve

Missionkz, I hope when I get the starter clutch sorted out, I'll be able to inspect the cam chain upper guide closer and see if there is a lot of wear? I'm sure the rubber dampers it sits on are probably worn, so not sure if they would need to be replaced? I'll know more when I pull the cam chain adjuster and see where the plunger is positioned? Not sure what it means to turn the crank to a spot where it won't turn backwards? Seems to me you can always turn the crank backwards at even given point but maybe I'm wrong?

The compression has a tendency to move the crank back if not moved past TDC. You can feel it. At that point all the slack will be at the rear of the engine. At that point you loosen the bolt and can hear it snap forward taking up the slack.
Steve

Steve, So I assume while your rotating the crank clockwise past TDC, which point do you stop turning the crank in that direction before you make the adjustment on the tensioner? I'm assuming while your turning the crank clockwise with a wrench, you would release the forward clockwise pressure on the wrench and physically see or feel the wrench while on the 17mm nut move counterclockwise or backwards?