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Replied by 577nitro on topic 1981 gpz1100 project resto-mod

03 Oct 2020 15:27
577nitro's Avatar 577nitro
Ride report and update..

So I now have a full summer of riding on the GPZ1100 with suspension upgrades...wow what a difference! I LOVE riding this bike! I used it to commute to
work about 70% of time this summer, and have put at least 5000 miles on it. I ride 600 miles a week commuting, about 60 miles one way on back country roads.
Needless to say I really let're eat on some sections....rock ass solid at 100+ no problems. No slappers, wobbles, pogoing...nothing just stable as can be. Power is wonderful now that I have the Mikuni RS34's dialed in as well. It will pull redline in every gear...roll on is massive no need to downshift. It easily is making the same power as my ZRX1100.

Here is what my current suspension mods are sitting at:

1. ZRX1100 rear swingarm with 20mm through bolt (zrx1100 rear axle) upgrade, hole reamed slightly tight for zero slop per Dr. Gamma advice.
2. 1986 GSXR1100 front and rear wheels, for a 4.0 inch rear with a 150 mounted and a 2.75 front with a 110 mounted.
3. Critical step here..front and rear wheels perfectly aligned < than a 1mm off. They were at least 1 cm off when I first checked it! This is key to fixing slappers.
4. NHK high end steering dampener.
5. S1 style lower triple clamp from Motogp. Stiffened the forks.
6. ZRX1100 rear shocks overhauled by DMR Jamie Daughtery << great guy.
7. Installed RaceTek Cartridge emulators both forks with O rings for a tight fit..1.5 clicks in. per side.
8. RaceTek fork springs.
9. Critical point here, multiple weeks testing the perfect fork oil mixture for this setup. For me 20ml ATF with seal conditioner, 30ml 75-120w synthetic gear oil (for rebound), then the remaining 10-30w synthetic motor oil. Also 10psi air per fork. For more rebound add the gear oil in 10ml increments. Caution this only works in ancient NON cartridge forks. I use this same basic formula in my RZ350 also...works perfect.
10. Change the fork oil often, dirt and grit contaminate it causing leaking seals. I found a way to change the GPZ1100 fork oil in about 15 minutes. I use a an old Hyperlube bottle which as a cone sprout. It fits perfectly into the air valve hole (remove the valve) and I have pre measured the oil and just let drain in. cap it and use a bicycle hand pump to put 10psi in per side. ..and Bobs your uncle.
11.Lasty, a Fork Brace.

Before modifying the forks like above, they were worthless...bottomed on braking, zero dampening down right dangerous. Now, they work like modern forks, fork travel is around 3.5 to 4 inches max..no bottoming, no diving on hard braking, and great rebound dampening. They are far less harsh than my ZRX, that just beats me to death. I can go over a real bumpy patched road surface at speed 90+ and it just floats over it...never gets upset. I tried Dr. Gamma's trick of slapping the bars ar speed to try and induce wobbles and nothing...I did this at about 65mph...not 90 like he does..not that brave..

Replied by 577nitro on topic 1981 gpz1100 project resto-mod

03 Oct 2020 15:27
577nitro's Avatar 577nitro
Ride report and update..

So I now have a full summer of riding on the GPZ1100 with suspension upgrades...wow what a difference! I LOVE riding this bike! I used it to commute to
work about 70% of time this summer, and have put at least 5000 miles on it. I ride 600 miles a week commuting, about 60 miles one way on back country roads.
Needless to say I really let're eat on some sections....rock ass solid at 100+ no problems. No slappers, wobbles, pogoing...nothing just stable as can be. Power is wonderful now that I have the Mikuni RS34's dialed in as well. It will pull redline in every gear...roll on is massive no need to downshift. It easily is making the same power as my ZRX1100.

Here is what my current suspension mods are sitting at:

1. ZRX1100 rear swingarm with 20mm through bolt (zrx1100 rear axle) upgrade, hole reamed slightly tight for zero slop per Dr. Gamma advice.
2. 1986 GSXR1100 front and rear wheels, for a 4.0 inch rear with a 150 mounted and a 2.75 front with a 110 mounted.
3. Critical step here..front and rear wheels perfectly aligned < than a 1mm off. They were at least 1 cm off when I first checked it! This is key to fixing slappers.
4. NHK high end steering dampener.
5. S1 style lower triple clamp from Motogp. Stiffened the forks.
6. ZRX1100 rear shocks overhauled by DMR Jamie Daughtery << great guy.
7. Installed RaceTek Cartridge emulators both forks with O rings for a tight fit..1.5 clicks in. per side.
8. RaceTek fork springs.
9. Critical point here, multiple weeks testing the perfect fork oil mixture for this setup. For me 20ml ATF with seal conditioner, 30ml 75-120w synthetic gear oil (for rebound), then the remaining 10-30w synthetic motor oil. Also 10psi air per fork. For more rebound add the gear oil in 10ml increments. Caution this only works in ancient NON cartridge forks. I use this same basic formula in my RZ350 also...works perfect.
10. Change the fork oil often, dirt and grit contaminate it causing leaking seals. I found a way to change the GPZ1100 fork oil in about 15 minutes. I use a an old Hyperlube bottle which as a cone sprout. It fits perfectly into the air valve hole (remove the valve) and I have pre measured the oil and just let drain in. cap it and use a bicycle hand pump to put 10psi in per side. ..and Bobs your uncle.
11.Lasty, a Fork Brace.

Before modifying the forks like above, they were worthless...bottomed on braking, zero dampening down right dangerous. Now, they work like modern forks, fork travel is around 3.5 to 4 inches max..no bottoming, no diving on hard braking, and great rebound dampening. They are far less harsh than my ZRX, that just beats me to death. I can go over a real bumpy patched road surface at speed 90+ and it just floats over it...never gets upset. I tried Dr. Gamma's trick of slapping the bars ar speed to try and induce wobbles and nothing...I did this at about 65mph...not 90 like he does..not that brave..

another front end swap question. was created by stevefarris6

28 Sep 2020 11:27
stevefarris6's Avatar stevefarris6
Ive searched and read about this for months now. As far as I can tell, the r1 front end is a great choice, but it's 2"-2.5" shorter than a stock 78 kz1000. The 14+ fz09 is basically a 2" over r1 front end. The question I have is does anyone think the rake angle of the kz frame will cause any issues with the fz09 forks? They were designed for a steeper rake. Will the 4 degrees or so of extra rake angle change the performance of the forks? What pitfalls should i watch out for when setting up my suspension with this front end? Anyone see any reason this won't pair well with zrx1200 rear shocks if i match the zrx shock geometry? Im hoping to give this thing a more solid chassis. It started as not much more than a bare frame. If I have to buy a bunch of parts, i may as well make improvements where i can.

Replied by timmdur on topic 78 kz750b build

10 Aug 2020 05:57 - 10 Aug 2020 06:09
timmdur's Avatar timmdur
Thanks for the words of advice DoctoRot! You're making me nervous about this whole pod filter thing, but ebay wouldn't let me return them even though I received the wrong item (only exchange), so I think I'll give them a try. I have an idea on how I could modify the boots. But I bet I'll give up after a while and build a custom airbox... I just hate the look of the stock one. Also, in regards to drilling the jets, I have an entire spare set, or else I wouldn't try it. The goal isn't to use them permanently, but instead to get an estimate of what sizes I'll need before spending $5 a pop.

I also replaced the starter clutch, and now it engages! But the motor still doesn't turn the engine over. It sounds like it's spinning, but it only turns over the engine when the plugs are removed. I figured the ring gear inside the starter motor was slipping, so I made a new shim and shoved some JB weld in there too, just for good measure. Still nothing. Again, it sounds like it's spinning, but nothing outside of the motor turns (eg. the motor's output shaft). Any ideas as to what this could be?

Lastly, I found a great deal on a set of 1999 r6 forks, so I bought them on a whim. After some inspection, I think I'll be able to easily adapt them, and even run dual discs up front with the stock wheel! I'm thinking of using rear shocks from a zrx1200, unless something better/cheaper can be found.

Replied by Kawa KZ1000 on topic 1981 KZ1000 CSR Project

22 Jul 2020 11:44
Kawa KZ1000's Avatar Kawa KZ1000
TexasKZ wrote: No need to apologize. It is your machine and your money.

There are many ways to approach what you want. You can go radical with modern suspension and a highly modified frame and a highly modified engine. Twenty thousand dollars later, you will have an old bike that can pretty well hang with some recent 600cc sport bikes, at least until things get really twisty.

On the other hand, you could substantially change the appearance and improve the ride and handling with a minimum of cost and butchery.
How about a front end from a contemporary GPz 1100? Add some Race Tech cartridge emulators and some new springs. Huge improvement.
Add a light weight, but stronger swingarm from a GS 1000, or even a ZRX 1100 and some top shelf shocks. Big improvement.
Remove the touring accessories. Add some lower handlebars. Make a custom seat. Add some rear set foot controls. Huge changes without butchery.
Your bike and money, your call.

If you were proposing chopping up a first year Z1 or an S1, that would be different. A CSR is not rare, collectible, or even special. What you propose is akin to customizing a 1989 Honda Civic.

TexasKZ this is very much in the vein of what I'm looking for. I dont have any problem spending money but I feel those kinds of mods take away from the character of what the bike is and away from the intention of what I'm after. Your other advice is right up my alley and just what I've been looking for. Thank you.

Replied by TexasKZ on topic 1981 KZ1000 CSR Project

22 Jul 2020 10:52 - 22 Jul 2020 11:04
TexasKZ's Avatar TexasKZ
No need to apologize. It is your machine and your money.

There are many ways to approach what you want. You can go radical with modern suspension and a highly modified frame and a highly modified engine. Twenty thousand dollars later, you will have an old bike that can pretty well hang with some recent 600cc sport bikes, at least until things get really twisty.

On the other hand, you could substantially change the appearance and improve the ride and handling with a minimum of cost and butchery.
How about a front end from a contemporary GPz 1100? Add some Race Tech cartridge emulators and some new springs. Huge improvement.
Add a light weight, but stronger swingarm from a GS 1000, or even a ZRX 1100 and some top shelf shocks. Big improvement.
Remove the touring accessories. Add some lower handlebars. Make a custom seat. Add some rear set foot controls. Huge changes without butchery.
Your bike and money, your call.

If you were proposing chopping up a first year Z1 or an S1, that would be different. A CSR is not rare, collectible, or even special. What you propose is akin to customizing a 1989 Honda Civic.

Replied by foxkawa on topic Gpz750 1982 will be a Eddie Lawson replica. Almost :-)

27 May 2020 00:44
foxkawa's Avatar foxkawa
GPZenthusiastic wrote: Very nice bike!
Lot of work involved.
Are those rear shocks from a zrx like the swing arm?

No the shocks are aftermarket ones. :-)

Replied by GPZenthusiastic on topic Gpz750 1982 will be a Eddie Lawson replica. Almost :-)

26 May 2020 17:32
GPZenthusiastic's Avatar GPZenthusiastic
Very nice bike!
Lot of work involved.
Are those rear shocks from a zrx like the swing arm?

Replied by Kidkawie on topic 75 Z1 Resto

11 Apr 2020 14:03
Kidkawie's Avatar Kidkawie
Bringing this thread back from the dead since I made a bunch of changes.

First off, swapped out the Euro bend handlebars for the Emgo 23-12565. I never liked how the Euro bars bent down like clip-ons. With a MX background the new bars are wide, and flat. Just how I like them.

Also swapped out the directionals for some real nice polished cast aluminum ones, I think another Emgo product. Highly recommended, but to mount to the headlight is a bitch.

New Racetech fork springs. I was going to lower the ZRX shocks to 11.5" but decided to just buy a set at that length to see if I liked it or not. To mod the KYBs that much there would be no return. So we'll see how it goes, so far so good.

Last I swapped out the rims for Akront (repop) with a wider rear rim and tire. Went with a 3" rim and a 140 tire. Would liked to have gone 150 but Id rather play it safe on this one.

Last is the exhaust. I made a thread on it but basically remived the left side Hooker and fabbed up another system from parts. Sounds great, runs great.

Also snapped the hi/lo headlight switch......again. lol

Replied by 650ed on topic KZ 650 project

07 Apr 2020 11:19
650ed's Avatar 650ed
Bradykull wrote: Strictly going off the fact that the stock ZRX weighs about 495...

Kz650 weighs 30 pounds less than that. Not to mention the weight I'm dropping by using lightweight modern sport bike wheels and front end.

Maybe a bad choice of words on my part, I should have said, "sprung heavy".

What's your take on it Ed?

With both bikes weighing close to the same amount(+/- 30 pounds) and the ZRX shocks being adjustable I would expect those shocks to work ok. I guess if you plan to reduce the weight of the KZ650 by a bunch, maybe other shocks would be a good bet, but they may be expensive. Have you considered having shocks tailored to suit the application? Hagon might be able to do that for you, but I don't know how much money they might charge. Ed

www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/

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