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Replied by madmatt1 on topic ZRX shocks on KZ1100

15 Jul 2017 16:56
madmatt1's Avatar madmatt1
Those are the KYB piggyback shocks, yes? I have not personally tried them, have been real tempted to though. Other guys have done this and said they were very pleased with the outcome. I think they are about a half inch longer than the stockers. Honestly, I don't see how they couldn't be better than the originals. Give her a go! I'd like to hear what you think about them!

ZRX shocks on KZ1100 was created by 76KZ900

14 Jul 2017 22:09
76KZ900's Avatar 76KZ900
I just bought a set of these off the ZRXOA forum. Im hoping these will ride a little better than the stock KZ shocks. Is this the case ? If you have this conversion I'd like to hear from you

Replied by Tyrell Corp on topic GPZ550 or KZ550 Swing Arm/ Rear End Swap

01 Apr 2017 06:32
Tyrell Corp's Avatar Tyrell Corp
I fitted a custom 650 swingarm into a 550 twinshock, from memory there was several mm difference which was fixed by machining down the bearing caps. IIRC also about an inch longer.

Going any bigger than 130 on that rim won't work, really you want a complete swingarm, wheel, caliper assembly, zrx1100 would be a popular choice.

I just measured my bare 550 81 d1 frame, getting 225mm for the swingarm pivot. You don't want to go too long on the length, the 550 twinshocks have a short wheelbase which makes them agile.

another consideration is your sprocket offset, there are various ways of fixing this...

Replied by Kidkawie on topic New Z1 Project

21 Mar 2017 06:36 - 21 Mar 2017 06:37
Kidkawie's Avatar Kidkawie
I did a couple bolt-on mods to mine. As much as I want to brace the frame and put better brakes on, it aint happenin. My mods are pretty much ZRX shocks, wind screen, short stems for the mirrors, bars and pipe. I preserved, not restored, the rest of the bike. Replating/refinishing original parts when possible. I have a set of reproduction shocks I slap on for bike shows and what not. EVERY PART on your bike is worth some money, so don't throw anything out!

Replied by 577nitro on topic 1981 gpz1100 project resto-mod

27 Dec 2016 01:30
577nitro's Avatar 577nitro
Hi all...just an update. 550 is waiting for the frame to be blasted still; all other parts done. I am debating on a big bore kit and a megacycle cam with a road race grind. It would wake it up nicely. The 1100 is mostly done, rear end is mounted with a modified stock swingarm and the 87 gxsr 18" rear wheel. I purchased a 87 gixxer rear brake and rebuilt and mounted it. Had to weld a bracket on the bottom of the swing arm for the torque arm. Mounted up the zephyr shocks, no prob. Front wheel FINALLY fitted with the 86 gsxr 18" wheel, had to mill the mounting points for the rotors almost 10"mm. Fabricated adapters for the brakes and milled spacers and shims for the 15 mm to 17 mm bearing and axle. And it all works....18" gsxr wheels on a GPZ1100. Really makes it look like S1 with those wheels. I bought a zrx 1100 swing arm, but..it does not bolt up, slightly to wide between pivot holes. Also the lower bar of the arm does not clear the Kerker pipe. So I guessing this needs to be modified (the kerker?) The tank still needs to be sorted, I really want a late model J tank, I have two GPZ1100 tanks I could trade for one? I was also thinking about dropping in a megecycle .385" cam to beef it up a bit.

Replied by jmartin1110 on topic 1982 KZ1000 Project

16 Dec 2016 11:54
jmartin1110's Avatar jmartin1110
Oh and picked up a set of ZRX shocks for $150 usd

[IMG


And new rear sets

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This is everything mocked up before the new springs.

[IMG


You can just barely make out the where the bike was sitting before the new springs. Gained over an inch and the stance is much nicer. Not to mention more ground clearance

[IMG

Replied by missionkz on topic My first 440 "cafè'ish" build.

21 Oct 2016 21:12 - 21 Oct 2016 21:17
missionkz's Avatar missionkz
Kidkawie wrote:
I_Tig_in_piece wrote:
650ed wrote: If you had a 72 mph speed wobble something is still wrong with the bike and the damper is only masking the problem. I guarantee you that the bike didn't have a speed wobble when it left the showroom floor. #1 suspect would be tires, but bad shocks; worn swing arm bushings; bad steering stem bearings; wheel bearings; untrue rim; etc. are also possibilities. I highly recommend you identify and correct the problem. My KZ650 had a wobble at 90 mph and after replacing all bearings, bushings, shocks, etc. it turned out to be a bad tire (Michelin Macadam) even though both tires looked perfect. After replacing the tires the bike is now as solid as a rock up to top speed (120 mph). Ed

Before the first wobble, all the items you mentioned had maybe 400 miles on them from new. AB bearings everywhere except the swinger which is a NOS set. I trued the wheels myself then had them OK'd by a few buddies at Trophys. Followed the directions on kz400.com to the T to rebuild and fill the forks. I pressed the new top and bottom AB races on but I didn't re-torque the stem after putting some miles on them.

My Z1B with stock forks and reproduction OEM shocks would weave above 80mph. Not headshake, but a whole bike weave. I installed a set of ZRX shocks which were plusher and a touch longer and the weave has disappeared. With these old bikes you have to pay attention to setup. You can't just slap suspension on (no matter what it is) and call it done. Some good info in this video.

That video played like an anti motorcycle propaganda piece.
I've never had any of my medium and big road bikes do any of that BS!
And I ride from 55mph to 85mph for quite a few miles nearly every time I go out .
Today included.

Replied by Kidkawie on topic My first 440 "cafè'ish" build.

17 Oct 2016 10:05 - 17 Oct 2016 10:05
Kidkawie's Avatar Kidkawie
I_Tig_in_piece wrote:
650ed wrote: If you had a 72 mph speed wobble something is still wrong with the bike and the damper is only masking the problem. I guarantee you that the bike didn't have a speed wobble when it left the showroom floor. #1 suspect would be tires, but bad shocks; worn swing arm bushings; bad steering stem bearings; wheel bearings; untrue rim; etc. are also possibilities. I highly recommend you identify and correct the problem. My KZ650 had a wobble at 90 mph and after replacing all bearings, bushings, shocks, etc. it turned out to be a bad tire (Michelin Macadam) even though both tires looked perfect. After replacing the tires the bike is now as solid as a rock up to top speed (120 mph). Ed

Before the first wobble, all the items you mentioned had maybe 400 miles on them from new. AB bearings everywhere except the swinger which is a NOS set. I trued the wheels myself then had them OK'd by a few buddies at Trophys. Followed the directions on kz400.com to the T to rebuild and fill the forks. I pressed the new top and bottom AB races on but I didn't re-torque the stem after putting some miles on them.

My Z1B with stock forks and reproduction OEM shocks would weave above 80mph. Not headshake, but a whole bike weave. I installed a set of ZRX shocks which were plusher and a touch longer and the weave has disappeared. With these old bikes you have to pay attention to setup. You can't just slap suspension on (no matter what it is) and call it done. Some good info in this video.

1982 GPz750 Phase III, onward and upward. was created by GPzMOD750

16 Oct 2016 08:19 - 16 Oct 2016 08:24
GPzMOD750's Avatar GPzMOD750
OK, I'm finally going to get this thread going.

This is a continuation of my bike in these threads.

82 GPz750 keepin' it real,.. for now
1982 GPz750 Phase II Making It more Unique.

Well as you can see at the end of the last thread I had it just about where I wanted and then had a mishap. It wasn't too catastrophic but smashed up the crankcase enough to warrant the rebuilding of the engine. Therefore, I'm going to pretty much tear it down to the frame and put it together as I think it should within my own taste, budget, and skills.

Damaged-
  • The instrument cluster was really bashed up.This pissed me off more than anything. It was from the UK and went up to 150 mph.
  • The Bikemaster drag bars were bent.
  • My bar end mirrors obviously would be smashed as well. The right side anyway.
  • The tank got a new dent from my switches.
  • The timing cover was smashed and the upper screw boss was obliterated. The lower one was already gone. The Dyna S ignition was FUBAR'd as well. The rotor screw was sheared off.
  • Miscellanius scrapes, etc.. The rear brake lever was bent.

I'm actually surprised that it wasn't damaged more than it was. I wasn't going fast but It hit the pavement hard.

I have already pretty much found and bought everything I need to get it rebuilt and just need to get down to the nitty-gritty. I'm sure I'll find little things I didn't think of or didn't know needed replacing.

I'll start off with what I'm not going to do. This isn't a criticism of those that have done these things to their KZs in general or KZ750R1s specifically, I just don't think they are right for me or the bike.
  • It's not going to be a typical ELR....or cafe or tracker
  • I'm not going to do a fork or swing arm swap.
  • I'm not going to put on pod filters.
  • I'm not going to grind anything off besides what was already buggered when I got it. and hopefully make it reversible as possible if myself or someone else wants to do a full restore

Things that I am going to do besides just repair or replace damaged items along with maintenance like bearings, brakes and such. The "style" will most likely end up being more streetfighter than anything else. Some of the things I'm going to do will be a bit different on the practical side. I'm going to try and keep the price down as much as possible and I kind of like reusing parts from other bikes, preferably Kawasaki, in the process.

Engine-
  • I have a replacement crankcase with GPz numbers.
  • KZ550 6 spd tranny, I think I'll maybe take the neutral finder out. I'd like to set up the sprockets so 1st is slightly lower than standard. 6th (& 5th) will end up being a very nice OD ratios.
  • ZR7 oil pump and secondary shaft with starter clutch.
  • KZ650 valve cover. Hey, it fits! Doesn't have the stupid save the planet spigots on it. It just needs a coat of black paint.
  • MAYBE a ZX750A head or just a replacement KZ750R head, depends on what I find. I buggered up the one I have the first time I adjusted the valves. I can probably fix it but if I find a suitable replacement....
  • MAYBE a 810 over bore. it depends on what the 2 cylinder sets I have look like and measure out to when I get to it. If I'm going to have to rebore and replace pistons I might as well go all the way. I'm honestly hoping it doesn't need it since this will severely strain the budget.

Exhaust- I'm keeping the ZR7 headers. I have a titanium Muzzy muffler that needs to be rebuilt waiting in the wings, It's off a YZF R1 so it will take some fitting, I might have to start over with a full ZR7 exhaust set that wasn't chopped off so short.

Suspension- I already have the ZRX rear shocks, they're staying. I'll service the swingarm pivot bearings/bushings etc. while I'm at it. I'm going to be putting Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks. I have an extra set of legs that I'll use as they feel like the bushings are tighter. I have set of All Balls steering head bearings too.

The body- I have a full replacement set of body work so the original stuff is being mothballed and I'm going to have fun with the other stuff that has already been painted or came off other models. The tank, fender, and tailpiece haven't shown up yet. I bought them sight unseen but the guy gave me they impression are in the best shape anyone might hope for. I'm just excited to have been able to find the tank, they are super hard to find in good shape.
  • I'm going to use the factory style front fender but trim it down a bit. I've seen it done and it looks good IMO.
  • I'm going to build a front cowling, Just a bikini sized thing. I was already toying with the idea but is a definite must to protect the instrument cluster. The cowling is basically to clean up the looks of the front end and is going to cover a protective cage to keep cluster damage from happening again if I go down. I've been playing with how and what to make it out of and I haven't quite decided yet. I'm thinking about using aluminum tread plate. I think 5-bar style would look good. I would make it black with ceracoat since I don't think a GPz should have any polished chrome or aluminum parts on it. I think it would look unique and stand out.
  • A swing arm mounted fender and chain guard. I've been running without either and it looks cool but it sure does leave a mess. Made out of the same material as the cowling to match.
  • I have some factory case guards that will be going on. The only reason they weren't on earlier is because they were in need of being blasted and refinished. Maybe cowling matching skins over them. Just a thought.
  • I might do something "special" with the tank and side covers Like a "toaster tank" style panels out of the same stuff I make the cowling out of.
  • Seats, yes seats, I have an extra seat pan. I plan to keep one as a standard 2 up type, The cover on the one on it just started cracking just before I put it down. Idk if I'm going to get a factory style cover or just take it to an upholsterer to do whatever seems nice. The other I plan to build as a combo solo seat/tail rack. I still plan to ride this bike as often as possible which includes to work and it's always nice to carry your lunch and gear on a ready-made place for it. I'll swap seats over as needed. The rack would match the cowling as well.

I am torn about the tread plate idea. I'm worried it would look too industrial or something. I know the typical diamond plate pattern definitely would.

I'll see if I can get some pics of the damage up later today.

Replied by Kidkawie on topic ebay rear shocks?

11 Oct 2016 18:02
Kidkawie's Avatar Kidkawie
You can modify them by removing the preload tabs and/or installing limiters inside the shock. I read about removing the preload tabs on a ZRX forum but I took it a step further by welding the adjuster to the inner sleeve. I also had to shim out the left shock to clear the chain guard using flat washers.





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