Your going to need sending units for both. Not to sure about the fuel level sending unit, I bought a tank lid with one in it. As for temp, all you need is a oil temp sending unit. I'm sure you could find on the same thread as the oil port above your points cover, assuming is a KZ1000. I'm not familiar with the other models.

Here is a link to the speedo Steve.
www.acewell-meter.com/c0_1.php?pid=3&bid=11

Looking at the functions I do not see a oil temp indicator just an oil pressure indicator which is propably what you have now.

FUNCTIONS & SPECIFICATIONS

FUNCTIONS SYMBLE SPECIFICATIONS
Bar graphic speed meter 　 12,000 rpm
Digital Tachometer & Warning RPM 100-19,900 rpm, 100rpm increment
Speed Meter 　 2.4-300 km/h (187.5 M/H)
Trip Meter 0.00-9999.99 KM/Miles
Odometer 0.0 - 99999.9 KM, 0.0-62499.9 Miles
Maximum Speed MAX 2.4-300.0 KM/h (187.5 M/h),
Average Speed AVG 2.4-300.0 KM/h (187.5 M/h),
12/24 Hour Clock 　 0:00’00” – 11H59’59”/23H59’59”
Riding Timer RT 0-99H59`59``
Total Riding Timer 0-9999H59’,
Power Input 　　　　　　　　 DC 12V
Speed Sensor 　　　　　　　 Reed Switch & Magnet
Tachometer input 　　　　　　 CDI or Sparking Plug signal
Wheel circumference setting 　 1mm-3999mm (1mm increment)
Dimensions 　　　　　　　　 Φ64mm x 40 mm

Got a pic?

Just ordered one. Who has one and how do you like it? Any tricks and tips on wiring? There some features like fuel level and engine temp I'm not set up for at the moment. Any suggestion on how I can?
-Eric

tommyboah wrote: I got it running again now, think it was something do to with the fuel vacuum hose not feeding any fuel. I also checked the spark plugs for spark and managed to electrify myself :woohoo: powerful spark!

For info I got the RS36-D3-K, running 130 on the main jet, P-4 needle jet, 17.5 pilot jet.

Now I got it running ok in idle@500-600RPMs with idle mixture screw at 1 turn out. If I go lower turns on the idle mixture (should mean richer on fuel) it starts to slightly backfire or spit (not sure, it's not a big bang but sounds like a spit but coming from the exhaust i think). When reving in neutral above 1.500RPMs it will lock it self running around 1500-2000RPMs not wanting to fall down again.

i still havent synched the carbs yet, as I am thinking of taking them off and bench synching versus running. Could the carb synch be causing this whole thing?

When putting oil in, I noticed I have overfilled a tad, as I could not read the window inside my garage. I see it better in the sun light. I will take some out with a syringe as soon as it cools down a bit, too hot to remove now.

Any tips for me on the idle not wanting to go down from 1500-2000RPMs?

Just to clarify, I haven't really checked the RPMs that I have written. I believe there might be a multiplying error on the readings, as this can be adjusted on the Acewell Speedo that I am using. I guess the RPMs should proabably be multiplied by two, giving the idle RPMs around 1200RPMs?

I had an Acewell like that. Make sure you get the bike outside in the sunlight before you carve the bracket mount in stone. Sit on the bike and make sure you can read the gauge in direct sunlight. They can be a bitch to see from certain angles..

One more suggestion. FWIW

If you put some modern wheels on it, 17" on both ends, that you can mount some wider rubber on, you will not regret it. The difference is night and day in cornering with confidence....

I like the guage choice. small enough not to stand out to much. for mounting check out my bike. I used 3/16 round bar and bent it to fit tight to the forks. tabs are made form round tubing, the round bar can be adapted to just about any shape. made tabs off of it to mount light and acewell guages

Trailtech Vapor, Acewell or maybe a bicycle computer?

Alan

Before I go on with more pics, here are my initial plans for this build:

- Tearing down engine compeletely and having it meda blasted and re-painted. I will do a combo of black and silver on the engine.
- Sandblasting the frame and having it powder coated (black semi-gloss)
- Painting tank, seat and fenders black with some white racing stripes
- Rebuilding engine with Wiseco big bore kit (72.0mm) to 1075ccm with new valves and guides
- Replacing front and rear drive train sprocket along with new 630 chain
- Changing the carbs from stock CV to Mikuni RS36 with K&N pod filters
- Change to Dyna S ignition with Dynca Coils (I am keeping the option of running the stock ignition)
- Changed fork stanchions (as they were shot) and springs to Hagon Progressive. Also putting on a fork brace.
- Changed rear suspension to progressive suspension, was thinking of Öhlins but I have to save up for that
- Installing hydraulic clutch system from Z1 Enterprises
- Replacing all bearings in stem and swing arm
- Replaced the stock Kerker baffle with 2" competition baffle
- Clip ons (that one was obvious?) and rear set installation
- Replacing front master cylinder and all brake lines with new and improved ones
- Fresh rubber on all wheels

Some non performance, but still cool addons:
- Acewell speedo/tacho
- Keyless ignition (RF-id based)
- LED blinkers

Wanted upgrade (stage 2):
- Brakes, I will need to see how they perform now after switching to new front master cylinder and brake lines.
- Front and rear assemblies of a ZRX (i hear that this is not to difficult to fit together)

I am creating a new thread for this build, as the last one was converted into more of an ethical thread than a build thread No hard feelings. But please let's keep it this time to discussing the build and not what bike is being used for this build. So here we go.

Firstly a little intro:

I really love Cafe Racers and I have always wanted to build my own. My first bike was a Suzuki GS400 Cafe racer that I did not build myself, but bought from a guy in Norway who builds Cafe racers based on GS400 together with this son:

Another pic


After I had been riding this bike for a while, I was interested in building my own Cafe racer and had been doing quite a lot of research. I wanted to build a bike that had a bigger engine with more power, like a 750cc or 1000cc. I had been looking at the Suzuki GS750, GS1000 and the Honda CB750s, also KZ750 and KZ1000. The market for classic bikes is not so big in Norway, as I guess it is in the US where most of you come from. Therefore it is not all that easy to actually find a bike for a build project, unless you import one from another country. After browsing through the "bike for sale"-adds in Norway for a while the one bike who caught my eye was the KZ1000R2 that I could get for a resonable price. I managed to get a fair price for the old GS400 and did not have to put all that much in upgrading to the KZ1000R2. So here we are.

The project is a '83 KZ1000R2 that has run for about 70.000km and had a shit load of different owners. Access to parts and workshops her in Norway are limited and therefore also pretty expensive. All the parts I get are bought on-line from webshops (Z1enterprise, Fast from the past, Dynoman.net etc.) or ebay.

My first sketches started out like this:

Based upon this sketch I did a qucik part conversion using the stock seat and added clip-ons, new headlight and an Acewell speedo. This was during the riding season, so I did not want to use much time on it, and just wanted to get the Cafe feel of it:


This is all I have time for writing right now. As some of you might know, I have done much more work on the bike today, and I will upadte this ASAP.