Need help with engine tuning procedure on KZ1000R2

tommyboah wrote: I got it running again now, think it was something do to with the fuel vacuum hose not feeding any fuel. I also checked the spark plugs for spark and managed to electrify myself :woohoo: powerful spark!

For info I got the RS36-D3-K, running 130 on the main jet, P-4 needle jet, 17.5 pilot jet.

Now I got it running ok in idle@500-600RPMs with idle mixture screw at 1 turn out. If I go lower turns on the idle mixture (should mean richer on fuel) it starts to slightly backfire or spit (not sure, it's not a big bang but sounds like a spit but coming from the exhaust i think). When reving in neutral above 1.500RPMs it will lock it self running around 1500-2000RPMs not wanting to fall down again.

i still havent synched the carbs yet, as I am thinking of taking them off and bench synching versus running. Could the carb synch be causing this whole thing?

When putting oil in, I noticed I have overfilled a tad, as I could not read the window inside my garage. I see it better in the sun light. I will take some out with a syringe as soon as it cools down a bit, too hot to remove now.

Any tips for me on the idle not wanting to go down from 1500-2000RPMs?

tommyboah wrote: I got it running again now, think it was something do to with the fuel vacuum hose not feeding any fuel....

Patton wrote:
There should never be any fuel inside the vacuum hose between the carb and petcock. The vacuum hose is for vacuum only, and provides the vacuum necessary to operate the vacuum operated petcock.

A racing idle is sometimes caused by an air leak from whatever source, which source might be through a cracked, worn out carb holder, a loose carb clamp, etc.

Would also concur with the suggestions and recommendations offered by 4TheKZ1000.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: I just got done doing my first carb sync on bike. It wouldn't idle to good. I was around 1200 rpm. I checked all four cylinders first and they were all over the place.

CYLINDER vacuum number from gauge.

1. 8
2. 9
3. 10
4. 12

I was able to sync all 4 carbs to a 9 on the gages. I idles really nice now at 1000 rpm. Maybe yours could use a sync.

tommyboah wrote: I had the Mikuni RSs of the bike and check the floats, seemed to be pretty much spot on 17mm, and also the bench synch seemed to be good straight out of the factory. i guess they do bench synch them at the factory before sending them out?

Okay, so I have the bike running, but not good. I thought I'd just check the compression before i started working more on the carbs and I got myself a small surprise. They were all out of whack, reading 117, 97, 80 and 93. F#¤%! :blink:

I thought I had done a good job on the head and all.

My pistons are brand new and have been installed by a machine shop so I figure they should be ok. I will try the oil in the spark hole method to rule out a leak from the pistons.

The valves have also been changed, so there could be a leak there? I thought I did a pretty good job shimming them, but maybe they sink in a bit when breaking in after a valve job, so they don't seal as well now after the engine has been running? does this seem plausible?

Could it be the springs? They have never been changed as far as I know, and now I am running GPZ1100 cams. Maybe they need some stiffer springs?

Any tips on how I should proceed to troubleshoot?