My KZ1000 vintage superbike replica / cafe racer is nearly done except for seat padding and upholstery which should be done in 2 days. But before I took my fiberglass tail in to be upholstered, i threw a black bath towel on it for a seat and got in four short 15 mile rides through my favorite local twisties.

She runs great, and pulls like a banshee at high RPMS. I changed out my 15w-40 Rotella T dino oil classic blend and K&N filter (not the triple protecton on shelves now which admittedly is probably just as good) with another gallon of the same at the 30 mile mark to get the shavings out, on Saturday night.

Sunday I took it twice more up the 15 mile loop and brought her home to cool of in between each pass. After the second pass Sunday I decided I was done, and pulled the tail off to get it in my Jeep so it would be ready to take to the upholstery shop the next morning. Here is where this post gets electrical.

I noticed the slightest bit of moisture at the corner of the fill cap strip on my YTX20HL-BS AGM battery, and the battery was a bit warm even an hour after the ride. The battery lays on it's back with the terminals up and a local dealership said that technically only the YTZ factory sealed batteries should be run inverted - but I'm not inverted I told him - and he relented that a YTX properly activated and sealed up should be ok on it's side, just as I have.

He guessed that the charging rate might be too high but he also said that it might just vent a little on it's first few runs and then stop which is what i'm hoping for. So I decided to check the battery voltages while running and fired her back up.

I get anywhere from 14-15.5 volts at high idle at 2000-2500rpm. Then at 4000rpm I get around 14-14.5 volts, nothing higher. The regulator gets warm but not hot. This is with a complete from scratch wiring harness, Dyna-S / 3ohm coils, and all lights shut off. I'm sure the parasitic draw on my harness is much lower than stock, as I have ditched stock everything electrical except blinker, starter solenoid, and reg/rec. Stock gauges are gone, using an Acewell, blinkers are gone for Drag Specialties Eagle Eyes, etc, running two relays, one for the ATC fuse box and one for the coils, stock bar control boxes are new from KandStech.com. Bike was a 1981 KZ1000 CSR so it has a perm mag 3 yellow wire stator setup.

So my final question is would you spend the $83 for a Rick's Regulator Rectifier from Z1Enterprises or just monitor the battery for weeping electrolyte?

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Post edited by: sheik*yerbouti, at: 2007/07/17 22:28

I remounted the sensor and the speedo is quite stable, but it is now about 10kph lower than actual speed. I'll double check that I did put in the numbers right. If still off, I'll do the circumference thing.

Voodoosoup wrote:

Fossil wrote:

At first I was kinda disappointed with the performance of the Acewell speedo, but now that I've had a chance to finish the wiring, setup the speedo magnet and sensor, and program the unit, I'm pretty happy with it, especially the price.
Pic of Acewell magnet epoxied to rim, sensor is tie wrapped inside the fender parallel to the rim/magnet.

I believe it is supposed to be installed perpendicular to the magnets travel and in the same direction as the "vibration" in which case this would be the motion of the forks up and down. Then the center of the magnet has to cross the sensor at the line at either end.

I haven't taken anyone out to pace along side yet, but it seems fairly accurate. I also wrapped a piece of masking tape around my front wheel and marked it where it overlapped. I then took it off and stuck it to the garage floor and measured between my two marks to get the true circumference of the wheel. I converted the measurement to mm and entered it into the gauge.

That makes sense, I read "direction of vibration" as a bad translation with vibration meaning rotation. Now the "lines" mean something. Thanks. I'm going to remount the pickup now.

Fossil wrote:

At first I was kinda disappointed with the performance of the Acewell speedo, but now that I've had a chance to finish the wiring, setup the speedo magnet and sensor, and program the unit, I'm pretty happy with it, especially the price.
Pic of Acewell magnet epoxied to rim, sensor is tie wrapped inside the fender parallel to the rim/magnet.

I believe it is supposed to be installed perpendicular to the magnets travel and in the same direction as the "vibration" in which case this would be the motion of the forks up and down. Then the center of the magnet has to cross the sensor at the line at either end.

I haven't taken anyone out to pace along side yet, but it seems fairly accurate. I also wrapped a piece of masking tape around my front wheel and marked it where it overlapped. I then took it off and stuck it to the garage floor and measured between my two marks to get the true circumference of the wheel. I converted the measurement to mm and entered it into the gauge.

Allshookup wrote:

I am looking at buying one of the Acewell 2753 gauges very soon. After everything is said in done would you recommend them?

For the price, compared to what other motorcycle computers go for, yes. For a custom look, or to make it legal, sure, but you do only get what you pay for.
The only reason I bought one was because I didn't have a speedo drive on the wheel I used and somebody here "highly recommended" it, but turned out that was before he had installed it.
Stock factory instruments are way better.

kzwolfsr wrote:

I wouldn't go by what the instructions say if its for a bicycle. My computer is actually set to something close to a 24 inch wheeel, so just look out!

They're specifically made for motorcycle, ATV and automotive use.

I am looking at buying one of the Acewell 2753 gauges very soon. After everything is said in done would you recommend them?

I am looking at buying one of the Acewell 2753 gauges very soon. After everything is said in done would you recommend them?

I wouldn't go by what the instructions say if its for a bicycle. My computer is actually set to something close to a 24 inch wheeel, so just look out!

Nope, don't think it's accurate - I think it's reading lower than the actual speed, though I haven't had a chance to check it to anything. The Acewell instructions do provide a number to punch in for 17" wheels so it is calibrated correctly.