Thanks sheik.

I'm going to give that a try this evening.
I really love this thing other than the wrapped wire part. So you just hooked it to the terminal on one of the coils that is the signal lead from the electronic ignition, correct?


sheik*yerbouti wrote:

the tach on my Acewell works perfect now that I have put a ring terminal on the end of the now 8" yellow tacho pickup lead, and attached it to my Dyna coils on the Dyna-S side, (not the steady 12v side).

Rock steady, 100% perfect, I'm dead serious. The coil around the plug wire is a total joke.

Also, for my KZ1000, the 1.0 RPM divider (or i guess lack thereof a divided) is the one that is correct.

1000000% dead nuts perfect

the tach on my Acewell works perfect now that I have put a ring terminal on the end of the now 8" yellow tacho pickup lead, and attached it to my Dyna coils on the Dyna-S side, (not the steady 12v side).

Rock steady, 100% perfect, I'm dead serious. The coil around the plug wire is a total joke.

Also, for my KZ1000, the 1.0 RPM divider (or i guess lack thereof a divided) is the one that is correct.

1000000% dead nuts perfect

Very nice! That front end looks like it was meant to be there. You're not going to believe how different the bikes going to feel. It's going to feel lighter with a much lower centre of gravity, nimbler and the quality of the suspension, choice of tires and braking is like night and day compared to the 80's parts. There was a discussion here a while ago about welding triple clamps. Apparently you can!
Have you figured out what you're going to do about fork stops? I would suggest putting your headlight brackets on before setting up the fork stops - I didn't and one bracket touches the tank enough to take the paint off. If that wheel has a speedo drive you'ld be best to use a stock ZX speedometer and your stock tach. I have an Acewell speedo/tach and it seems to be quite accurate and stable as a speedometer, but the tachometer isn't the best, fluctuating quite a bit and mine is plugged into the harness in place of the original, not wrapped around a plug wire. It's also a bit hard to see at first but I've gotten used to it. Didn't help that the colour codes for the stock wiring harness were wrong in the Clymer manual. Hit and miss with a box of fuses.
I picked up a ZZR1200 swingarm off ebay from the ZZR1200 store in Quebec. New bike takeoff, complete for $100 plus postage. Very similar to the ZX9 and was a breeze to fit.
cgi.ebay.ca/BRAND-NEW-KAWA-ZZR1200-SWING...eZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
Thanks for posting, hope to see more.

Post edited by: Fossil, at: 2007/08/02 16:05

I love the KZ650. I'm looking at picking up another one.


Funky setup, it really gives it a unique look. What do you think of it? You get your speedo and tach through it, I take it?

Ewwwww...nice.

...a KZ650, too...




:pinch:

How's the tach working on yours?

That's the only thing I haven't gotten to work perfectly on mine.
And I've seen similar stories all over the net.

Bend the mount and it becomes perfect for mounting in the stock tach holder... rubber dampened and all!!!

Gosling1 wrote:

Did you convert over to a magneto, or did you find a place to hide that battery that I just don't see. Really , really like what you did though

hey thanks man!

using a Yuasa YTX20HL-BS Absorption Glass Mat (AGM) hundred dollar sealed type battery laying ot it's side in a totally custom electrics tray under the tail, that also serves to keep rocks from flipping up into and damaging the Air-Tech Fiberglass Kawi H2R Race Tail...

am using the regular 3-yellow wire stock stator, stock R&R, stock starter solenoid and that is it as far as stock electrics, *EVERYTHING* else electrical is custom and soldered no bullet plugs and everything is triple layer shrink wrapped, no electrical tape used, main harness wrapped in sprial loom from my employers excavator shop.

i made a complete wiring harness from scratch, yes really. took two weekends, 6-8hrs per each pair of Sat/Sun, and 3-4 hours each night during the Mon through Fri in the middle, close to 60hrs all told. I made complete poster board sized schematic ahead of time and then redid it to follow the changes, order, and routing of components after i was done and hung it on the wall in my garage. i had 0 rework, it all worked the first time which really suprised me.

all done with 10 colors of 16AWG stranded automotive wire from a electrical house, much better quality than AutoZone or Auto Parts Store wire. Running two relays, one powers on with the marine style spring Off-On-Run(spring back to On) auto style igniton, and that relay turns on the 6 place ATC fuse box. it powers, headlights, tailight, brake light, blinker relay, Acewell gauge, with one fuse place empty.

the second relay turns on from the CR80 kill switch on the right bar and powers the Dyna 3-ohm coils. Everything was checked for current with my multimeter and fused one notch above the amps it drew. then both relays are inline fused with the total of the fuses and circuits they power. I think the coil relay is a 3A inline and the inline for the relay for the whole fusebox (head,tail,brake,gauge,blink=is a total of 17A) is a 20A fuse.

BTW for future searchers, the Acewell tach was giving me fits bouncing the RPM's all over the place when i tried the recommeded method of coiling it around a sparkplug wire. However putting a 16awg ring terminal on the tacho sense and connecting it to where the Dyna-S triggers the coil, the RPM's are *DEAD* steady... Also all the idiot lights in the Acewell work perfect, oil press and neutral, blinkers, highbeam indicator! It's a beautiful thing!

Post edited by: sheik*yerbouti, at: 2007/07/24 13:52

When it's hooked to the Acewell, can you take a voltage reading on the sense wire (relative to ground), when full and empty. Without that info, any circuit would be guess work.

The stock fuel gauge on my bike would go from 100 ohms when full to 0 ohms when empty. I recently replaced the meters with an acewell meter. Unfortunately, the acewell meter shows the opposite of what I need. It displays full when 0 ohms are put across the terimal and ground and empty when it's 100 ohms.

So I need a way to convert the resistance. Basically if X is the termistor's resistance, I need to run (100 - X) resisance between meter terminal and ground. I can't think of a way to do it...