TOPIC:

I got started on the one tail piece that got the low-side rash and the gouges are deeper than I initially thought, maybe 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch deep.

How should I fix this before spraying any primer and paint?

spot putty?i would think it would stick as long as you rough up plastic. goodluck,happy wrenching!

JB WELD em!

I did it before and it worked killer, its a bit hard to sand but its durable.

If its a kz750E let me know, or if its a duck tail let me know too.

Please edit your profile and signature to contain your state & town complete with year and model of bike. this way someone close you you may be at hand to help you in person some time or private message you to go on rides around your area.

Post edited by: ran429, at: 2006/03/15 01:47

Just like ran429 said...JB Weld. I patch all my plastics with the stuff. It sands well and is pretty strong when set.

I never thought of JB Weld...good idea. Anyways.....The 650 tail piece I put on my kz1000 was sorta rashed in a spot or two, and I used short-strand fiberglass filler (Tiger Hair, Bondo Hair...that kinda stuff). Easy to use and easy to sand and finish. So far so good. Let us know how it works out.

One way to minimize sanding of JB Weld is to use a damp rag to smooth away the epoxy as it's setting. I'm crude I just use my wet finger. Using water and a little rubbing it's possible to avoid almost all the sanding. Once it sets up the JB Weld doesn't seem to have minded the water.
KZCSI

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2006/03/15 09:05

Good to know guys; thanks! This is for my SV650, btw. And I updated my sig. Looks like the entire board was reset at some point during my absence.

Also, where is the best (cheapest) place to buy this JB weld stuff? Autozone is closest to me, then after that, probably Lowes or Walmart.

Try wally world first.
it can be purchased cheaper at any hardware, lowes wally world, the Depot. You name it it's there.

They do have alot of tempting fillers out there, stay away from the stick crap. I used quick setting jbweld I had in my boat in case a punctures the bottom on rocks, it set up in 15 minutes and sandable, but it still took 24 hours to cure.

Good luck.


EDIT! : Oh yeah ! SARAN WRAP IS YOUR FRIEND in times like this.
after applying the jbweld where you need it, cover the area where you "DONT" want it with the saran wrap. this way it keeps your sanding time down to a minimum on the outer areas.

Post edited by: ran429, at: 2006/03/15 13:44

Just a note re epoxy. Some people can have an immediate allergic reaction to it, some others can develop a sensitivety to it. Then again, there's most of the population that it won't bother at all.
I used epoxy resins and putty every day for years in paleo work and developed an allergic reaction to it, ended up in the hospital twice and had to quit the paleo work which I loved. Don't handle it with your bare hands, and don't breathe the fumes (it out gases for days). Most common is a dermotological reaction (skin rash, I wanted to die), also can cause respiratory problems.
Be careful.

i would sand down to plastic around the area and fill with testors model putty. its made for abs, easier to work with,easier to sand and cheaper.

If you havent fixed your peice yet.. my opinion would be to use some quality polyester body filler. You will want to prep your gouges for the filler, sand the gouges out with 80 grit and cut the gouge wider so the filler will be able to be feathered out - meaning smooth and even to the rest of the surface. You dont have to remove paint to use polyester filler just strach it up, do sand cracked paint off and the paint in the gouges.