TOPIC:

hi everyone .. I'm having trouble loading my Z750 L1.

I have changed the charging relay and now the stator. No new hands.

At 4000rpm I get about 55volt out of the stator yellow.

However, I do not get more than about 13 volts at 4000rpm, so an increase of about 0.4-0.6volt?

when I measure the yellow cables from the stator, the voltage is 0.10? but when i start measuring it goes up to 12-13 and goes down to 0.10

can i have the wrong meter?

more tips.

I have Kawasaki's original book

MvH Niklas

On battery circut you have to set the meter to DC Volts and on stator curcuit to AC Volts to get correct values.

ok thx.

have done it now and nothing new. The volt from stator att 4000rpm is around 65-70 volt and on the bateri it going from 12.85 volt to maby 12.89 volt at 4000 rpm.

a have no ide what it can be. maby look at the ohm from the stator agen..

So, just to be clear, when checking the stator by itself you have to disconnect it completely from the bike. Set your meter to AC voltage and test across the three various combinations of yellow wire coming from the stator. 65 - 70 volts is kind of low for that test. On my 750 I had two different stators that made 75+ VAC, but regardless, the stators were both bad.,

In Kawasaki's manual it says that everything over 50 volts at 4000rpm is good. I have tested both stator and bug charging relay and both appear to be working "whole"

What I think is the "short circuit" somewhere.

Does the red / white cord go from the charging relay to the battery? is it the one who gives the power on?

The standard rule is as follows:
A 3-wire stator should have over 50v AC on each of the three possible wire pairs. at 4000 RPM.
A 2-wire stator should have over 70v AC on the pair of yellow wires at 4000 RPM.
Those tests are done with the stator wires disconnected from the bike, and only connected to a meter.

Some manuals have the expected results wrong. They have the 3-wire and the 2-wire results flipped. The above way is correct.
Aftermarket stators often have different expected results.

These are called "open-load" or "no-load" tests and don't really indicate what the alternator (stator and rotor) will do under load. It's just a one-way pass/fail test. If the test fails, the stator or magnetic rotor/flywheel is bad. If the tests passes, the alternator may still be bad or good under load. Usually this means the rotor is probably ok, as long as it's not slipping, but the stator still needs a load test.

I usually see about 55v AC on a good 3-wire stator/rotor, and a little under 75v AC for a 2-wire (no load, 4000 RPM).

I had TWO different stators with basically the same results...

Stator resistance = .8 ohms
Unloaded AC voltage = 70+ VAC
Charging performance hooked up to battery = 13.5-13.7 VDC

I tried THREE different R/R's and got the same charging voltage each time

Bought a brand new Rick's stator and charging went immediately to 14.5 VDC.

Bottom line: you can NOT judge a stator based on resistance and unloaded AC voltage alone.

I run extra lighting on my bikes. I think stock is 55w, but I run 70w on two bikes and 110w on another. They all easily get to 14.3 ~ 14.5v DC on the battery, but not at idle, obviously. The 110w bike only has a capacitor. I would be surprised if the 550 charging systems were any more powerful than the 750 charging systems, especially since they are smaller.

Hello again.

I managed to find the error on the charge. the power went to the - pool and not to + ..

a wrong connection that was made about 10 years ago. Because it has not run so much, the problem never got up.

It got a little bit of learn money because I bought stator and charging relays that did not have to be changed

now it charges about 16 volts at 4000rpm ..
thank you all for tips and tricks

Mvh Niklas

16v is too high. That will kill the battery.

It should never go above 15v, and even that is too high. The desired range is from 14.2v to about 14.5v.

Is there a brown wire on the regulator? If so make sure it is connected and has battery voltage on it whenever the ignition switch is turned on. If not, that can cause overcharging like you are seeing.

loudhvx wrote: 16v is too high. That will kill the battery.

It should never go above 15v, and even that is too high. The desired range is from 14.2v to about 14.5v...........

Exactly!

Now here's the part I find difficult to understand - In the beginning of this thread KawasakiOwner stated "I have Kawasaki's original book". So given that he has it, has he even bothered to read it? The manual is quite clear about how to test the charging system and what the readings should be, so how can he not know that 16v is too high unless he didn't bother to read the manual? Sorry if I sound like a prick, but I seriously do not understand why anyone with the manual would not bother to read it when troubleshooting a problem.

Here's a cut & paste directly from the Kawasaki Service Manual that covers the KZ750-L1 that shows 16v is too high:



Ed

Ok a understand..

The Brown wier was not connected now thé volt is 15.30
Im going go look over the electricsystem. Have 3-4 wiers that not is connected.

And ed in sorry for having you not to understand hos this can happend. And also having the manuell and all.