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KZ1000P charging system output? 11 Jan 2013 12:37 #566847

  • ZG1K
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Motor Head wrote: I see your in Florida, so (1) heated gloves wouldn't be needed much if at all. Looks like a nice fairing on the front, which would (2) almost eliminate any wind on the hands. I have a Vetter on my KZ and hands stay comfortable.
Looks like you have already given this a lot of thought. (3) Have you tested the out put of your current system, as to max rated out put? Is it making the 19 Amps? If you haven't already, the old wiring and connections can cause resistance, loosing some of the out put. Common on these older bikes. While converting, (4) you may want to re-wire as well, ensuring the system is operating correctly. An Amp meter, either a clamp on, or in-line, will show if the system out put is correct. It will also show if the total usage is higher than the out put of the charging system. Just move the clamp, or the in-line meter to measure load or out put.

(5) Whats the fuel pressure control that uses current? Is this adjustable? Got a Link to it?

1. A common misconception. Did you know I had snow on my beloved GS a couple of years ago? It gets into the teens here in the winter.
2. The Windjammer is a great fairing, but does not block cold air on the fingers.
3. Hard to do with the motor sitting next to the bike (it's getting an 1100cc conversion "while I'm at it"). :) I have another GS1000 with the same regulator on it and it shows about 8 amps when an inductive meter is placed around the battery cable. I have no idea if this is accurate and plan to buy a load tester to get a better reading.
4. Check this out, it's a Bussmann 15303 ATM fuse and relay panel:


5. I'm building my own. It will use a 0-100 PSI / .5-4.5V sensor on the fuel rail that will be read by an Arduino Uno micro controller, which outputs through an N-channel transistor to control the fuel pump via pulse width modulation (PWM). It is adjustable via programming. If I put some more time into it, I'm sure I could figure out a pair of up/down buttons. No link as yet as it remains untested, I just soldered the last part of it yesterday. There is a fellow here that will sell you a similar device for $50 that is adjustable. It may take a few days for him to get in touch with you, by the time he did I had already figured it out and started on the Arduino.
1981 Suzuki GS1000G

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KZ1000P charging system output? 11 Jan 2013 15:33 #566872

  • MFolks
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For reliable electrical connections, I use these types of tools:

Wire Terminal Crimping Tools
www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination (The Good, Bad, & Ugly of Crimpers))
crimpsupply.com/


If you're doing splicing(joining wires together), try these, as they are moisure resistant:

Sherco Auto parts
NiAc ™ Heat Shrink Butt Connectors. The splices are first crimped, and then shrunk down.
Adhesive Lined—Moisture Proof Low Temp. Cross-Linked Ionic Polymer.
10 Pack 100 Pack 1000 Pack
HSNRBS 22-18 Gauge Red NiAc™ $3.50 $24.95 $174.95
HSNBBS 16-14 Gauge Blue NiAc™ $3.50 $24.95 $174.95
HSNYBS 12-10 Gauge Yellow NiAc™ $4.25 $ 39.95 $269.95

NiAc Assortment SBA-HSN
30 Red, 40 Blue, 30 Yellow
$29.95

Similar types can be found at most auto parts stores, made by 3M.



Wire Termination Insulation & Sizes

Terminal Insulation Color Wire Sizes
RED
22-18 gauge wire
BLUE
16-14 gauge wire
YELLOW
12-10 gauge wire
RED
8 Gauge
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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KZ1000P charging system output? 11 Jan 2013 22:01 #566913

  • ZG1K
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Thanks, but I'm using Weatherpack connectors for all but the OEM fuse box connector (recycled it with new wire and terminals) so it will plug in in the event it needs future maintenance.

I shop online (Waytek, Mouser, PCS, etc.) for electrical pieces such as these since parts stores tend to have high prices and/or don't carry what I need. I buy striped PVC (low temp) wire from British Wiring and solid color SXL/TXL (high temp) wire from Motorsports Wiring.
1981 Suzuki GS1000G

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