TOPIC:

Hi folks. A friend of mine has a 1978 KZ1000 with the original dual-point ignition. It was running fine until he monkeyed with it.

No stores in town (Montrose, CO) have repair manuals in stock, and I've driven over an hour from Telluride to try and help.

I have all the necessary tools, adjustable timing light, etc., for working on old cars (I'm into old full-sized Jeeps, and also work on my own Porsche); I'm considered something of a local guru on setting up carburetors for high altitude. But I have little motorcycle experience.

Can someone please provide a write-up, or a step-by-step instruction (with pics?) for setting the point gaps, dwell, etc.

Thanks for letting me join your forum, and thanks in advance for the help!

Ralph

my typing sucks or id help you out! got a fax machine?

Ask your friend what he did or thinks he did like move any parts or loose any screws or what not. Take a pic or two if you can and I'm sure as soon as someone sees this who knows about points will respond. If I get up before the sun goes down tomorrow (my flash doesn't work), I'll take a pic of mine and get it on here.

Hello, Ralph, and WELCOME to KZR! We're glad you're here!


Each points set is held by two screws (through slotted holes) to a back plate. Each back plate is held by two screws (through slotted holes) to the round mounting plate. The round mounting plate is held by three screws (through slotted holes) to the engine case. A cam fits through the advancer. The heels of the points ride the cam to open and close. A little oil soaked felt pad lubes the cam so the heels don't wear out so fast.

1st -- Adjust gaps -- Do this separately for each points set. Turn crankshaft clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest points opening and adjust gap separately for each set of points at 0.3-0.4mm (.012-.016 inch). Each points set has two base screws to very slightly loosen thereby allowing movement to open or close gap, then retighten after setting gap. The widest gap happens when the heel is resting on the highest part of the cam. At this stage nothing but the gap has been adjusted. But this is important because proper gap does affect the subsequent timing procedure. And other screws have remained tight.

2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the mounting plate. Ignore the T marks which locate top dead center and not used when setting ignition timing.

3rd -- Tighten and recheck --Tighten all screws and recheck timing with strobe light.

Also, check to assure proper operation of the advancer unit. Watch it move back and forth as rpm are varied. If removed for cleaning and lubing, be sure the cam unit is replaced correctly and not 180 degrees off.

Also good to have a fan blowing onto the cylinders while setting the timing.

Good Luck!

[Click on image to enlarge view]

Thanks! I'm driving up there tonight and will give it a crack. Did I say THANKS!?

Quick note.By far the most common points related problem caused by 1st timers is getting the power/cond.wires on the wrong side of the insolating washer/s. without diss-assy, bolt goes thru points spring,fibre washer,points arm,fibre washer, wires,flat washer lock washer,nut. (there is also a insolating ferrule inside points arm,but you won't see it without diss-assy. hope this helps.G