KZ1100 starter clutch
- rtg
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KZ1100 starter clutch
08 Mar 2008 12:57
Does anybody know WHAT wears out or malfunctions in the starter clutch itself? the round body or the springs and associated carriers or screws???..Bike's got about 28000 pretty easy ,adult owned miles on it and , especially when warm , the starter really drags.Starter brushes were replaced about 4000 miles ago . any theories would be appreciated...
thanks
RTG
"83 KZ1100-A-3
thanks
RTG
"83 KZ1100-A-3
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- RetroRiceRocketRider
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- ...bring in the machine that goes PING!
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Re: KZ1100 starter clutch
08 Mar 2008 13:38
By saying that the starter drags, do you mean it turns the engine over slowly?
If so, it's likely not the starter clutch.
More likely it's a battery on it's way out and/or loose wiring or corroded wiring connectors.
Most often when a starter clutch is worn and in need of repair/replacement, it will catch intermittently and make "grinding" and "whirring" sounds.
What actually wears in most starter clutches is the rollers and springs, which causes it to disengauge from the starter and prevent it from turning the engine over.
If it is the starter clutch going out, IIRC Z1 Enterprises.com has rebuild kits available for them for a fair price.
If so, it's likely not the starter clutch.
More likely it's a battery on it's way out and/or loose wiring or corroded wiring connectors.
Most often when a starter clutch is worn and in need of repair/replacement, it will catch intermittently and make "grinding" and "whirring" sounds.
What actually wears in most starter clutches is the rollers and springs, which causes it to disengauge from the starter and prevent it from turning the engine over.
If it is the starter clutch going out, IIRC Z1 Enterprises.com has rebuild kits available for them for a fair price.

Covina, So Calif!
78 KZ650-B2 = SOLD
84 ZN700 LTD = SOLD
84 ZX750 GPz = SOLD
89 GSX1100F Katana = SLEEPING
20 VN1700 Vulcan Vaquero (the Blue Cowboy)
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78 KZ650-B2 = SOLD
84 ZN700 LTD = SOLD
84 ZX750 GPz = SOLD
89 GSX1100F Katana = SLEEPING

20 VN1700 Vulcan Vaquero (the Blue Cowboy)
Looking for my next project KZ
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- FloridaBiker
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Re: KZ1100 starter clutch
09 Mar 2008 07:05
I agree with above reply;
The wear items are the 1) rollers and 2) springs.
I absolutely agree that you should check your electrical system.
I put in all new battery and ground cables, and it was like a new bike.
Cleaning your starter of all the carbon dust makes a big difference.
The coil wiring mod, with the relay is also very helpful.
In my case it now starts on the first touch of the starter.
The wear items are the 1) rollers and 2) springs.
I absolutely agree that you should check your electrical system.
I put in all new battery and ground cables, and it was like a new bike.
Cleaning your starter of all the carbon dust makes a big difference.
The coil wiring mod, with the relay is also very helpful.
In my case it now starts on the first touch of the starter.
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- shannonbeau
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Re: KZ1100 starter clutch
09 Nov 2011 17:46
Here is a video that I did on replacing mine. It shows that the springs were worn out and the needle bearing went bad too.
Just got an 82 KZ 1100, working to fix it up as my first bike.
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- gengomerpyle
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Re: KZ1100 starter clutch
09 Nov 2011 18:01
damn i wish it was that easy on my 750R1 :S
1982 GPZ750R1 ELR
1978 Honda CB750F SuperSport
1971 Honda CB750K
1970 Honda CL100 Scrambler
1978 Honda CB750F SuperSport
1971 Honda CB750K
1970 Honda CL100 Scrambler
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- MFolks
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Re: KZ1100 starter clutch
09 Nov 2011 20:16
Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S
1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:
A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs(3).
C. New spring caps(3).
D. New rollers(3).
2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.
3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.
4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.
5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.
6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.
7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!
8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.
9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.
10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.
11.One caution. These tend to get the skips and have difficulty with the one way clutch on the starter holding once they have been taken apart if the old parts are reused. They may not look that worn, but as a matter of course I would replace the entire part # 13193-1006 and part # 92026-112.
12.Also, if you presently have a follow-on rattle or growl once the bike has started take a good look at the starter motor gear, Part # 21167-002, and the pin on which it rotates. That gear and pin tends to wear the center bearing surface after only thirty or so years and then cocks under load and puts the starter clutch assembly in a bind causing it to skip or rattle. One problem looks like the other.
13.Use assembly lube when putting the starter gear back together with the pin.
14. Read this procedure from Red Line Cycle:
redlinecycle.com/Starter%20Clutch%20Tech.html
(It may show a blank page, but information is there).
1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:
A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs(3).
C. New spring caps(3).
D. New rollers(3).
2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.
3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.
4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.
5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.
6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.
7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!
8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.
9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.
10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.
11.One caution. These tend to get the skips and have difficulty with the one way clutch on the starter holding once they have been taken apart if the old parts are reused. They may not look that worn, but as a matter of course I would replace the entire part # 13193-1006 and part # 92026-112.
12.Also, if you presently have a follow-on rattle or growl once the bike has started take a good look at the starter motor gear, Part # 21167-002, and the pin on which it rotates. That gear and pin tends to wear the center bearing surface after only thirty or so years and then cocks under load and puts the starter clutch assembly in a bind causing it to skip or rattle. One problem looks like the other.
13.Use assembly lube when putting the starter gear back together with the pin.
14. Read this procedure from Red Line Cycle:
redlinecycle.com/Starter%20Clutch%20Tech.html
(It may show a blank page, but information is there).
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- radleyharris
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Re: KZ1100 starter clutch
11 Nov 2011 06:27
MFolks you shared great guidelines that should be kept in mind while running starter clutch repair...
Between want to know which is the best assembly lube to be used??
Between want to know which is the best assembly lube to be used??
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