Take the coil wire you spliced into and bare it and bare some of the skinny red power wire off the Dyna S. I ALWAYS solder this connection. You can cut the wire, if you need to and resolder but if you wrap the red wire around the coil wire and solder it, you won't have to wonder if that little blue connector failed. I have seen it fail a number of times... Use heat shrink whenever you have a solder joint.
OK... bike won't turn over has nothing to do with the ignition. To troubleshoot do the following in the order I suggest and you will soon figure out where you need to do some fixing!
1. battery charge... put the battery on a very slow trickle charger and make sure you top off with distilled water to red line on battery. If the battery discharges quickly, we might have to do some checking on the battery
2. OK... battery charged up and it won't turn over? If the engine isn't frozen, there is an electrical issue. First thing to check is the starter itself. Take a piece of heavy gauge wire and with the key off, bridge the terminal on the starter solenoid with the other big terminal where the starter is connected. If the battery is charged and you get NOTHING, then the starter is dead. If you get the starter to jump when hotwiring it, then likely, the starter is good.
3. OK, starter is good... check the solenoid. To check, with the key OFF, take that heavy piece of wire and put one end on the hot terminal on your battery (POSITIVE). Touch the other end to the solder joint where the black wire is soldered on the outside. If the starter jumps, your starter is good and the solenoid is good. If starter doesn't jump, the solenoid is DOA.
4. OK The solenoid checked out? Look at the fuses. Sometimes it is EASY to see if a fuse if blown and sometimes not. IF you have a multimeter, check all of them for continuity. That is, put the meter in Ohms scale and touch each metal end of the fuse, if you get ZIP, then the fuse is dead. Replace. If the fuses are good, then the problem is with the wiring that ends up triggering your solenoid. Power comes from one of those fuses through the ignition switch and then out where it connects to the right hand switch gear via a connector in the headlight shell on most bikes. This wire goes INTO the kill switch. The kill switch is in RUN, right? OK. open up the connector for the ignition switch. There is a fat white wire on the fuse side. Check it for DC Voltage... you should see about 12 VDC as this wire is always hot. If you don't go back and check the fuses and battery connections...
5. Reconnect this connector if the white wire is hot. OK... find the right switch gear connector in your head light shell that connects with the ignition switch. Look at the color of the wire that goes INTO your right switchgear to the kill switch by opening up the switchgear and looking. Disconnect the connector between the ignition switch and switchgear, turn key on and look for 12VDC on the pin that connects to the wire that goes to the kill switch. If you have no power, the ignition swich is bad.
6. You have power at the connector between the ignition switch and right switchgear. Reconnect. Go to kill switch and check for DC voltage at the in to the kill switch. If no power, the wire from the connector to the kill switch is broken. If there power, put the kill switch in RUN and with the power on, find the black wire that goes from the kill switch to the starter button. Check for voltage where this wire is soldered to the starter button terminal. If there is no power, the kill switch is bad.
7. If you find power, push the starter button and check for power coming off the starter button at the major connector where the right switchgear connects to the main harness. The wire will be black and just check the pin associated with the power on, kill switch in RUN and the start button pushed. If you get no voltage, the starter button needs clean up or replace. Remove oxidation from contact surfaces with an emery board or steel wool and use some electrical contact cleaner (any autoparts store has it). If you can't get voltage even after cleaning contacts, replace the button.
8. If you DO get voltage, make sure the connector between the right switchgear and harness is solid, cleaned (electrical contact cleaner / dielectic grease)... this connector wants to work loose because the tank rubs when you remove it. If the connection is solid, then check for voltage at the solenoid at the solder joint where the black wire is soldered. If you have no voltage, the wire is broke between solder joint and the switchgear/harness connector. Do this with the key on, the kill switch in RUN and the start button pushed...
That is it for testing why your bike isn't turning over.