TOPIC:

I've got a 78 KZ650 that I finally got running. New points and condensors did the trick. But I'm pretty sure my timing is all out of whack. I tried adjusting it using an ohm-meter like my repair manual said, but i think it is still off. I am planning on heading to Walmart and picking up a timing light to try that out soon. Do I need to use a dwell meter? To be honest I don't even know exacly what a dwell meter is -- I have only heard of it. If someone could "dummy down" the adjusting timing process for me I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

--Dave
New London, Wisconsin

If you're planning on keeping the bike get rid of points and get a dyna ignition. Otherwise, just set your point gaps as specified in the manual. This will get you plenty close on the dwell, then use your timing light to set timing. It goes real nice and easy with the timing light. Make sure your points cam is lubed or the points will wear and close up whithin a couple hundred miles.

And if you get a Dyns S (Highly recommended!) throw amay the blue connector they give you and solder that connection!

RonKZ650 wrote:

If you're planning on keeping the bike get rid of points and get a dyna ignition. Otherwise, just set your point gaps as specified in the manual. This will get you plenty close on the dwell, then use your timing light to set timing. It goes real nice and easy with the timing light. Make sure your points cam is lubed or the points will wear and close up whithin a couple hundred miles.

Ron, welcome to the post
listen to what bluemeanie says if you do in fact go with the electronic ignition. If George were here, he would say something similar I think, but,,,,....
From my understanding, what a dwell meter indicates is the ratio of points contact open-time to closed-time. You can set them to the exact same gap more reliably for twin contact systems using a dwell meter, but if you are careful, that is accurate when setting the gap on both sets, then you should be OK. Check it out:
www.centuryperformance.com/point_settings.asp
EDIT
Points is points. they follow the same operations theory, regardless of the application.

Post edited by: JimatMilkyWay, at: 2007/03/16 17:54

Points is points, but dwell is not dwell.

Classic car-dwell-meters are not designed to measure bike dwell. There are some calculations in order to convert it properly. I've posted the long-winded details at least a half-dozen times, if you're interested, a search should make it come up.

If you set the gap properly, and the points are new, and the cam is lubed properly, the dwell should end up just fine (as Ron said).

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/03/17 18:49

davedottnet wrote:

...I'm pretty sure my timing is all out of whack...planning on heading to Walmart and picking up a timing light

Z1E also carries timing lights

Z1E Timing Light

You need to head to the autoparts store to pick up the timing light. Get an INDUCTIVE timing light. This gizmo has three wires hanging off it. Two will be clips that connect to the battery. Red clip will go to hot terminal, black to Neg terminal.... OK the other wire has a C shaped part that fits over your plug wire... When an electrical pulse goes down the wire (like to fire a plug), the strobe light in the gun will flash...

OK, let's get started... take your points cover off. There are three 5mm phillips head screws holding the cover on. Loosen them a tad. Connect the power on the light and put the inductive pickup over the #4 plug (farthest to right as you sit on bike). Start the bike... would be good if it is warm and idles normally off choke. Point the gun at the points plate at about the 12:00 position. There is a cut out spot in the plate. Pull the trigger on the gun and the strobe will flash and light the cut out area and you will be able to clearly see some marks on the mechanical advance. The mechanical advance is the bit that sits between your points. You will see something like this:

1 4 T F
.........|

(there are no dots... used those to keep spacing)

Anyway, the vertical mark below the F... that should line up with the VERTICAL LINE on the case. If the bike isn't timed correctly, the marks won't be quite lined up... Rotate the plate one way or the other while holding the light on as the bike idles. Once you have the mark on the case aligning with the vertical mark by the F, 1 & 4 are TIMED. Stop the bike.

Tighten the three 5mm phillips head screws that hold the plate. Start the bike with everything still hooked up. Turn the timing light on the cut out in the plate and the marks will still be lined up. REV THE ENGINE to about 4K rpm and see if the mechanical advance is working... the little arms on the advance will swing out from centrifical action and the advance will rotate clockwise. If it doesn't do this, stop the engine and remove the advance and clean it and grease the shaft it sits on and replace it. This is part of periodic maintenance anyway.

OK, if all is OK at this point, stop the bike and put the inductive pickup on the #3 plug wire (LEFTMOST plug is #1). Now, check the timing for 2/3 cylinders the same way. The difference here is that you don't rotate the plate to adjust timing, if needed. You loosen the small mount screws on the RIGHT HAND points and move the points a tad, one way or the other. Once you have the 2/3 timing set by adjusting the points mount location, you are basically done.

Post edited by: wiredgeorge, at: 2007/03/17 22:28

Well, heres my update:
I'm kinda at a stand still for the time being. I figured I would re-do the valve shims while i was at everything. And now I am waiting for the head gasket to get shipped to me (e-bay purchase)... not to mention I am now back at college for a couple weeks. I picked up an inductive timing light at an auto parts store. I think I am going to stick with the points for now just cause I allready bought new points and am on a college budget. Maybe when they wear out again I will switch to a dyna ignition. If anyone would want to discribe that a little more in detail for me that'd be great. I am assuming it it just an electronic ignition -- like a cdi box? I might have to look into it down the road. So anyway I am just waiting to get things back together a bit, and then I should be able to figure things out with the timing light. Thanks for the step by step, george.

Just make sure your advancer is lubed and moving freely, then if you are on a budget use a test light to set the points. Ground the clip onto the points housing and hold the pointer against the point contact. When the points open the light will come on. When it comes on check the marks and see if they alighned. The light should come on when the fire mark is lined with the engine mark. Use the kick start to turn the motor by bumping it gently with your hand. When the marks get close, bump it a little at a time until the light comes on. Before you start turn the backing plate until it's in the middle of it's travel from left and right, and set the point gaps while on the high point of the cam one at a time. Set the gap at .008 to .0012. After it's said and done, recheck the timing after you ride once more to see if it has shifted. This method is easy and completely cool because my 900 beat a cbr600 with points adjusted just how I described. If you happen to have any further problems with spark check to see if the coils have 12v with the key on.