TOPIC:

SWest wrote: Did you get the bottom screw out. If so you may be able to drive the flange to the right to loosen the screw.
Steve

What Steve said.

You indicated the screw had indeed rotated.. Heat and additional grip might help too.

Getting the port area around the stuck screw good & hot can help relax the bond between the threads. A HF heat gun is a relative bargain and can pay for itself many times over. Even on something as massive as a head we've never had to run ours more than ten minutes on low to get the target area hot.

If you have any sort of powdered abrasive paste such as valve grinding compound, dipping the tip of the bit in it will help the bit get a better purchase in the damaged screw head. Pumice used to make paint grippy for use on steps & porches can be used too but don't use it dry, or it might get in places it shouldn't be. Mixing pumice with toothpaste will keep it under control and is water soluble.

If those don't work, a helper would probably be necessary. Steve's concept is to rotate the boot CCW around the stuck screw while at the same time applying CCW twist to the screw with a bit. The helper could be on the left side of the bike with an extension made of something relatively soft, like an appropriate length of 3/8" wood dowel or similar. Brass rod maybe, if great care is taken to not strike the outside of the port itself.

Have the helper place one end of the dowel or rod as low as possible on edge of the lower flange of the boot itself. Next to the empty screw hole would be ideal, but not touching the outside of the port itself. While you are applying CCW twist to the screw with the bit or Vampliers, have your helper tap the other end of the extension to rotate the bottom of the boot CCW around the stuck screw. The boot may be reluctant to move at first because the rubber will have molded itself to the shape of the port's lip. If you look at the boot you've removed you'll see what we mean.

Be patient & tale your time. Gentle persuasion is called for here rather than outright force.


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Vice grips on the side of the screw should get it. Also, do as Steve suggests and try to rotate the boot CCW. Many times doing that will cause the screw to rotate along with it.

Another technique which is to take a sharp chisel with the edge on the perimeter of the screw and give it good whack causing the screw to turn. I've had good success with this.

I never use locktight on cover fasteners. If the PO did heat is the only answer.
Steve

Ordered a pair of the vampire pliers and will hopefully get this sucker out. Until it arrives I'll plan on keep applying liquid wrench and see if twisting the boot helps (it is the top fastener that is stripped). I could have sworn the bolt moved a bit before the bit slipped /stripped but maybe it was just my imagination.

Take the bit and hit it with a hammer a few times to reshape the slots then try to twist it out.
Steve

Vice grips are much stronger than those Vampire pliers.

Edit: this photo is just a mock-up but it should give you the idea. Clamp onto the side of that screw as tight as you can and then turn the screw out.

Okay, I'll see if I can find some vice grips.

In the meantime, I plan to purchase new bolts. The bolts are 6mm x 15mm (almost exactly) but I don't see that size available on Z1. Instead they have 16mm and 12mm. I assume the 12 is the way to go but just want to confirm.

Thanks!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

ERIK814 wrote: Okay, I'll see if I can find some vice grips.

In the meantime, I plan to purchase new bolts. The bolts are 6mm x 15mm (almost exactly) but I don't see that size available on Z1. Instead they have 16mm and 12mm. I assume the 12 is the way to go but just want to confirm.

Thanks!

I would NOT buy bolts that are a different size than the originals. There are plenty of places out there that sell metric bolts & screws. Take a look at www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/135173/1982/KZ440-D4 It looks like the screws you need are part number 220B0616 (220A) - they are 6mm x 16mm. Notice the link below has 6mm x 16mm machine screws for .08 cents each. I'm sure there are other places that also have exactly the size you need. eBay has them too - see Ed

BOLT DEPOT

www.boltdepot.com/Metric_machine_screws_...eel_6mm_x_1.0mm.aspx

Stupid question - is it okay to change it to phillips head like the one you linked from bolt depot? Is it better to use JIS?

I use SS Allens.
Steve

ERIK814 wrote: Stupid question - is it okay to change it to phillips head like the one you linked from bolt depot? Is it better to use JIS?

I use genuine Kawasaki JIS screws on my bike. That way no one (including me) will need to guess which type head the screws have since they will all be the same JIS type. Ed

The Vampliers did not work for me. Barely could get a good angle with them and they slipped as I turned. I tried hammering in the bit to improve traction and twisting the rubber part CCW but neither worked. Purchased some knipex vise grips but they arrived defective so will be returning.

I have continued to apply liquid wrench daily but I don’t think it is doing anything...

I’m thinking the next step is to dremel and straight edge it out? Can’t do an impact without removing the motor and I just don’t think I have space for that (i’m doing the work in a parking garage).