TOPIC:

I have owned a B1 for nine years. I bought it from the original owner in a similar (luckily, the electronics were not fried though) condition to the one you're working on. Mine has the OEM fuel injection system on it, with exception of a couple of the injectors and cylinder head temp sensor. It runs really good, but definitely not the same as a well set-up carb bike, but I am okay with that.

If your customer, does not care about having the bike have its OEM fuel injection, then you should abandon your efforts with it. You'll be burning up too much time troubleshooting the problems, when you could be converting it to carbs. The electronics tied to the OEM fuel injection system, are stand alone, easily removed. You'll need to plug-off the fuel injection ports, change out the four airboots on the cylinder head, and relocate the fuel petcock to clear the top of one of the carbs. You'll need to ditch the OEM airbox as well, and go with a set of high quality air filter pods in its place. And of course, you'll need a good set of carbs, that are ready to go, like the ones offered earlier. There's info here for doing all of this correctly. Somewhere.

Before you go too far down the rabbit hole, you should do a cost roll-up of all of the projected labor and parts costs, add 25% to that figure, then approach your customer about it. He may find it prohibitive. If not, he'll own a bike that will garner questions, positive comments and admiration, before he can even get off of it when he goes places on it. That is what I experience with mine, and it's a good feeling even with all of the early expense and aggravation of it.

Good luck with whatever path you and your customer take. It is always nice to see one of these first year model, bad boy, GPz1100s brought back to life, and used again.

I read elsewhere in this forum the electronics are totally separate. Money is a key consideration for the owner. I know the pump is bad, electronics package condition is unknown, injectors, thermal sensor, unknown. A buddy on the KZ650 forum says he bought one new, had it in the shop several times, horrible gas mileage and never ran right. I really think I'm headed for carbs. I've got a set of BS34s off an 82 GPz 750 that I could easily rejet. Some clean but used K&N pods I'll give him for cheap. It seems like the most direct path to a running scoot.

Keep the EFI and use a micro squirt ecm to control fuel and ign.

So Dave does the Microsquirt system cost more than the $475 it takes to weld the tank and put carbs onto it? Cost is the key driver here.

Apologies to all. THIS IS A 1982 GPz1100 B2. I listed the title of this thread incorrectly. Mea culpa.

Check this out for more info.
www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-...w-30-wiring-harness/

With all of the folks trying to sell off their "extra set of carbs" for this fuel injected bike, then the $500 computer "upgrade" suggestion. Weld the tank?. The hole on this poor bike keeps getting dug deeper. Clean the tank up, buy a fuel pump and a battery and at least TRY to fix it right. You can tell if the computer is calling for fuel with a meter or a test light. Also putting on carbs will not be without it's own set of problems starting with jetting, no air box on a mix-match bike. I usually rig something up and have old pumps for testing and can probably substitute something from a 84 era Peugeot or Porsche with Bosch fuel injection if OEM parts are cost prohibitive. (have owned 2 EFI Peugeot's in the past).

For 500 bucks, >I<can fix that bike with it's original DFI type system still intact and functional, and possibly even upgrade it to the newer 84 Kaw DFI version (eBay baby!). NO need for some high priced computer upgrade.. You just want it to run properly, right?

ajsfirehawk wrote: I read elsewhere in this forum the electronics are totally separate. Money is a key consideration for the owner. I know the pump is bad, electronics package condition is unknown, injectors, thermal sensor, unknown. A buddy on the KZ650 forum says he bought one new, had it in the shop several times, horrible gas mileage and never ran right. I really think I'm headed for carbs. I've got a set of BS34s off an 82 GPz 750 that I could easily rejet. Some clean but used K&N pods I'll give him for cheap. It seems like the most direct path to a running scoot.

In the shop constantly? never ran right? I really do doubt those claims. Anyone putting a bike in any shop constantly is pretty clueless to begin with. I pick up dead motors / mowers/ bikes all the time, for one reason or another 'just won'.t run" . then I drain the fuel out, and it's half water.. um yeah.. clueless.
I read in other forums that there are a few quirks with these bikes, (like most any bike), in which the links I posted above address and also have solutions such as the IAT sensor, and a check valve lean condition problem.

I agree with Old kaw . Ive fired up the fuel injected turbos that have sat for twenty years . More then a few .They usually fire up no problem . If you can get the pump working it will run .
Walbro 392 gsl pump is the one we use on the turbos . A little over a hundred for the pump last time I bought one . You can get the injectors cleaned and flo checked for 125.00 . Its a pretty simple system .

riturbo wrote: I agree with Old kaw . Ive fired up the fuel injected turbos that have sat for twenty years . More then a few .They usually fire up no problem . If you can get the pump working it will run .
Walbro 392 gsl pump is the one we use on the turbos . A little over a hundred for the pump last time I bought one . You can get the injectors cleaned and flo checked for 125.00 . Its a pretty simple system .

OR, use some injector cleaner after it gets fuel pressure and is running, OR rig up a function generator and transistor driver circuit then clean them yourself. A intake air temp sensor is nothing more than a thermistor. A multi meter will test one. Actually a meter will test every sensor on that bike.

www.ebay.com/p/Fuel-Pump-Walbro-GSL392-U...=162604992448&chn=ps

www.ebay.com/p/Fuel-Pump-Walbro-GSL392-U...284?iid=223110322815

I sincerely appreciate this discussion. Let me respond to a few of the points made. As for the gentleman who talked about the issues he had with his GPz1100 when new: This was a Kawasaki dealer circa 1983. Not last week or last year where no one has the time, the skills or the interest to work on these. I've heard that some story a number of times for whatever that is worth. If it was my bike I'd mess around with it for months to get it to run stock. It isn't mine.

No one is concerned about what happened when some goofball jumped it from a car battery? I've got 7 hours in this thing, I've only charged him for 3. I only bill when I'm making direct progress towards the end goal. Buying a fuel pump, cleaning and or replacing injectors before I can even start to see if the ECU is fried and the diagnostic time to sort that out all costs time and money...for a 'might make it run'. My belief is much of the problem with the early FI bikes is in general the mechanics of the day had little interest in learning about FI. Speculative and all ancient history. Plus, if I were to get it running and he has a problem next summer, where does he go to get it fixed. If I've got a job at that time, it ain't going to be me. With carbs, someone will have the chops to make it run properly. I've got carbs I'll sell him for 60% of the going rate. If I don't make it run properly for well short of $1000, I'll put it back together and won't charge him a dime. Then we will talk about next steps as does he want to pursue fixing the FI. I suspect the answer is no and he would sell it for salvage value.

I'm going to move into projects since that is what this has become. Got some time in the garage yesterday. I extracted the fuel injection lock stock and barrel. The electronics came out fairly easily. It is completely isolated save one 3 pin connector. I've got to look up those three wires to see what they do and determine if they need to be addressed versus leaving them open. The oil cooler lines want to interfere with the BS34 carbs throttle blade shaft. I'll have to fab some simple brackets to mount to the #1 & 2, #3 & 4 top carb holder allen head screws. Bridging those with a flat bracket will hold those lines out of the way. I'll have to cover or dress out the edges of those brackets to ensure they don't chafe the lines over time. I should be able to get back out there for a bit this afternoon. I also have a little negative battery cable issue to address.

ajsfirehawk wrote: I If it was my bike I'd mess around with it for months to get it to run stock. It isn't mine.

No one is concerned about what happened when some goofball jumped it from a car battery? I've got 7 hours in this thing, I've only charged him for 3. I only bill when I'm making direct progress towards the end goal. Buying a fuel pump, cleaning and or replacing injectors before I can even start to see if the ECU is fried and the diagnostic time to sort that out all costs time and money...for a 'might make it run'. My belief is much of the problem with the early FI bikes is in general the mechanics of the day had little interest in learning about FI. Speculative and all ancient history. Plus, if I were to get it running and he has a problem next summer, where does he go to get it fixed. If I've got a job at that time, it ain't going to be me. With carbs, someone will have the chops to make it run properly. I've got carbs I'll sell him for 60% of the going rate. If I don't make it run properly for well short of $1000, I'll put it back together and won't charge him a dime. Then we will talk about next steps as does he want to pursue fixing the FI. I suspect the answer is no and he would sell it for salvage value.

I'm going to move into projects since that is what this has become. Got some time in the garage yesterday. I extracted the fuel injection lock stock and barrel. The electronics came out fairly easily. It is completely isolated save one 3 pin connector. I've got to look up those three wires to see what they do and determine if they need to be addressed versus leaving them open. The oil cooler lines want to interfere with the BS34 carbs throttle blade shaft. I'll have to fab some simple brackets to mount to the #1 & 2, #3 & 4 top carb holder allen head screws. Bridging those with a flat bracket will hold those lines out of the way. I'll have to cover or dress out the edges of those brackets to ensure they don't chafe the lines over time. I should be able to get back out there for a bit this afternoon. I also have a little negative battery cable issue to address.

It would seem this EFI was doomed from the start. ( I have 2 extra air boxes and a Kz1000 battery tray I'd like to sell!) Jumping a bike it's self won't kill it, but hooking it up backwards will. (it was addressed earlier with the "known good battery" post). Hooking it up backwards will also fry the regulator diodes too if this is the case, which I would assume you already know if it's shorted just from messing with the bike. Hooking up a noid light in place of an injector and cranking it with a good battery would tell if the fuel injection is pulsing / working and if the injectors will get a signal. The light will flash. Any test light will tell if it is also calling for the fuel pump at the fuel pump connector, and any multi meter will check all of the sensors. I can certainly understand where EFI might seem intimidating to some when not fully understood. Months to diagnose? All of this stuff can be checked in less than an hour.
At any rate, good luck on the fix / carb conversion.

ajsfirehawk wrote: .................No one is concerned about what happened when some goofball jumped it from a car battery? ...................

Jump starting the bike from a car battery should be ok as long as the car engine is not running at the time. Ed