TOPIC:

I have a kz650 that I bought wrecked for parts for my 750 twin. I don't know exactly what year it is, but it doesn't have a kick starter. Sorry this is a little off topic, but I want to put these carbs in a car. I just cleaned them and Im pretty sure theres no power valve, only an accel pump, idk if barrel carbs need a power valve. Anyway, I noticed the spot on the bottom of the carb with the accel pump on it there was an extra spot for something on the bottom of the float. Is this where a power valve goes on a different model. Im not too worried about it, but if I can have one it would help tuning.

front of the carbs


back of the carbs


the location on the bottom I was referring to

Sorry for 2nd reply, submit button was missing in edit. I believe the bike is an 81 kz650 H-1. Id also like to know where I can get jets, having a bit of trouble narrowing down results for this particular model bike. Looks like vm22/210 pilots and N100.604 mains according to jets r us. Also, one of my jet needles are bent and none of them are adjustable, which p/n are they? 5DL31 is my guess.

What year is the 750 Twin? There isn't much from a 650-CSR that'll swap over, especially if it's a 750B or G. I think the 750M CSR has almost the same meters and the same fenders & frame grip. but the tank, side covers & wheels are different among other things.

The triangular vacuum sensor was disabled at the factory. ie, the orifices weren't drilled. so the 81 carburetors didn't have the vac sensor cover nor the sensor diaphragm. and there is no power valve. To raise the jet needles, you can use small ss washers.
Z1Enterprises.com may have K&L jets & etc for the carburetors.
Sudco has a good catalogue that shows how lean or rich the various needles n stuff are.

Kawasaki KZ650 service manual. jarlef z650. the 1981 KZ650 pdf is in the Files section.
The carburetor specification chart below is from the pdf. The US specs are going to be leaner because of EPA regs.

... Carb spec table from the pdf. US model = KZ650-H1 CSR

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Here's an image from an earlier KZ650 manual showing the vacuum sensor & accelerator pump. 
Note: all 4 float bowls should have a ball, weight & clip for the accelerator pump nozzles,
and on the pump nozzles at the carb body gasket surface each nozzle should have an o-ring.
Read the 81 manual before trying to remove the pump rod nut: there is a warning about it.
If you decide to go ahead & remove the nut, carefully measure & note its position on the pump rod.


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Thanks for the reply, good info. Its a 79 750 twin, not a lot swapped over, but I got what I need, plus this 650 was only $100. I went ahead and bought 5DL31 needles because one of mine was bent, they are extremely close. Im missing 2 clips and 1 weight and ball. I was going to buy some check balls and brass stock to replace it, but Id really like to find new clip. All the o rings are there. I removed the nut, there was a few mil of thread sticking through the nut so I have a ballpark. I would probably have to adjust it, Im adding a vac diaphragm to raise the idle with the ac on, so I just need to turn the nut until the accel pump doesnt leak and it doesnt hesitate off idle, I think lol.

I didnt think there would be a power valve and it didnt look fun to drill those holes either. It might see boost later so a power valve would have helped

I think the vacuum sensor is a Rube Goldberg type of thing. It obviously isn't needed, since Kawasaki deleted it.
I believe all it does is shut off the flow of fuel to the accelerator pump when the engine stops.  When the engine starts, engine vacuum actuates the vac diaphragm so the diaphragm rod pushes a little ball up so that fuel can flow to the AP.




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Yup, thats useless.
Any idea where to get the ball, weight, and clip for the accel pump? I think all the clip does is prevent the weight from covering the hole above it so I might get away with something, but factory is best so theyre all the same

The K&L AP kit includes a weight, ball & clip. I don't know if you can get that stuff anywhere else. Without the clip my guess is that the weight will rise & block the orifice when you twist the throttle to actuate the pump, so you won't get a good squirt of fuel. The manual has a section on the pump nozzles: when the throttle pulley is vigorously actuated, the fuel is supposed to squirt straight back without hitting the carburetor bore walls & the amount of fuel ejected from each nozzle must be the same.

From the diagrams at Partzilla for the 1981 KZ650-H1 CSR. CLAMP,SPRING,CHECK V Not Available. 92037-1123
Every now n then you can find the clips on EB or the 3 little parts sold together. Someone on EB might have a bowl with the clip.

Here's a pic from EB I saved a while ago.

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Thats a bitch because my accel pump diaphragm is a wrinkly old whore. I think it will be ok, but for how long idk. I can find a kit with everything I need, minus one clip, but for no less than $40 and that stings. Hope I can bend a tiny sewing needle or something.

You should rig up a fuel supply to the carburetors, then test the AP. I used a large funnel & tubing outside & away from any ignition source.
If the diaphragm is bad, Z1Enterprises.com has the K&L kit.  oem is NLA.  

This would also be a good time to do the Service fuel level check. clear tube method. to make sure the fuel level in the carbs is correct.


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You can get a small spring that gauge at a hardware store and make your own. I'd buy the kit or the pump won't work well. 
Steve

Hey a spring is a good idea Steve!
The kit is out of stock on Z1, but that part number shows results on google. Ill pick them up on ebay. That will get me the diaphragm, the ball and weight I need, 1 spring, and Ill make the other out of a spring. I think Im pretty well set, Ill just fill them with fuel and check their levels.
Manual says fuel level should be 3mm from the bottom of the carb... sounds easy enough.
I noticed in the manual next to the float check something about the vacuum switch valve. I dont have the valve and I checked the forum about deleting it (this thread: www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/31928...al-did-i-do-it-right ).

Seems simple, but to be clear, I am blocking off these?


Its not on a bike, so no line to the petcock, and his lines from the valve cover to his air box is just like my pvc, and thats taken care of .
This is good info guys, really appreciate it