Running Rich.....sooo?

Superb! You deserve a medal!

calvin17d wrote: ...deserve a medal!

:lol:

KZ900 deserves the medal!

KZ900 (1015 bore) with K&N airbox filter, 4/1 exhaust, and oem Mikuni 26mm carbs, will perform admirably and with nary a hiccup from sea level, across Beartooth Pass Highway (at 10947' elevation), and all altitudes in between.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

calvin17d wrote: ...deserve a medal!

:lol:

KZ900 deserves the medal!

KZ900 (1015 bore) with K&N airbox filter, 4/1 exhaust, and oem Mikuni 26mm carbs, will perform admirably and with nary a hiccup from sea level, across Beartooth Pass Highway (at 10947' elevation), and all altitudes in between.

Good Fortune!

Spectacular tales you tell. I am anxious to get my carbs back to stock. I lack the airbox filter, but hope that doesnt play too many tricks on me.

I removed the carbs today in preparation for the arrival of my stock size 115 jets that I will be replacing the 120's with tomorrow. I removed the slides to inspect the needle clip position and found them to be in the correct location. I left the clip in the middle and replaced the slides. I am hoping that the 115's are on the money.

Will report back tomorrow.

calvin17d wrote: ...removed the slides to inspect the needle clip position and found them to be in the correct location. I left the clip in the middle and replaced the slides....

If not already done, would ascertain jet needle size (hopefully imprinted on the needle).

Oem jet needle is 5DL31.

The jet needle might have been changed by a previous owner, as various carb kits include different jet needles.

Good Fortune!

The jet needle was as specified. Dynamic timing has solved the problem with the missing. Now running 115 jets with the pods and 4:1 exhaust, I m on the hot/lean side after plug inspection.


2 days later:
Swapping back over to the 120 jets and running smooth.

A nice 40 min drive is returning very good operating results with not a single complaint/backfire/rough running etc...

about 10 mins from home and driving 60 mph through a heavy gust of crosswinds of 50 mph , the bike suddenly stalled out. I was able to start the bike running it in gear, however there was now an extreme loss of power and higher RPM required to meet the same desired speeds. Running quite roughly and feeling spurts of the other cylinder(s) trying to fire, I entered into the canyon where I was better sheltered from the winds. Traveling at 50 mph and still operating poorly I was able to make it back to town where I traveled at about 30-35 mph at around 3500 rpm. I could feel the other cylinders come back online, and idle speeds became stable once again. As I departed the other side of town, I throttled smoothly and accelerated nicely as I had done earlier in the day. Inspection of spark plugs after riding revealed plugs 1&4 were ideal while 2&3 were lean. I checked the resistance at the 2ndary winding of the coils and both were the same. I also checked the resistor type plug caps and all revealed 5Kohms.

Did the wind gusts, fowl plugs?

Would running two cylinders cause them to run lean?

Suggestions?

Possible fuel starvation due to vent in fuel tank cap being obstructed.

Could test for this by riding with the fuel tank cap ajar.

Fuel starvation may also be caused by clogged petcock screen or dirty inline fuel filter.

Good Fortune!

All but the rubber gasket on my fuel cap have been sealed with a tank sealer. I cannot even determine where the air ventilates from. This may be a problem assuming my rubber gasket is even functioning. Perhaps I could service the vent (clean) and replace the gasket. I will be driving with ajar as mentioned.

The petcock and filters are less than 200 miles old.

Cleaned up the tank coating which had made its way into the cap. Also went for a ride without the gas cap on. The bike ran quite well, but I am still getting different results on the plugs.

Plugs 1&4 are ideal and a little on the rich side where I wanted them.

Plugs 2&3 are running lean and the white around the electrode is very white with hardly any carbon on the ring.

I am running 120 jets, with pod filters, and 4:1 V&H exhaust. The timing has been checked dynamically while also the coils, and plug wires, and resistor caps have all checked out

Float levels?
Pod filters?
Ideas?

dif colors on plugs at what throttle opening. u must only test at 1 opening at a time. 1/8th, 1/2, or full.
the dif in color could be the carbs being out of sync. weeker spark on 1&4 , partialy pluged jets on 2&3 ?

I am unsure at which throttle opening the condition is coming from. This bike has been rebuilt less than 200 miles ago and that would include new jets and complete disassembly/assembly of the carburetors. Since my last post, I have synced the carbs which were pulling much harder toward the cylinders that are also showing a lean condition. I thought that syncing these carbs would have fixed the problem but now I am still experiencing a lean condition on the same cylinders. After having set the timing properly, cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, syncing the carbs, dialing in the valve clearance, checking the coils, installing new wires and caps, new petcock, new hoses, T's, and filters, I am left to suspect a leak at the intake manifold. I tested this theory by spraying WD40 on the boots while running at 2K RPMs. I did see a drop of about 200-300 rpms, but nothing too dramatic.

I removed the intake boots. They were still very soft and appear to have been replaced at some point because there is nearly no wear to the boots with the exception of the mating surface. The mating surface appears to have been imprinted with the heat of the head. I assume that reinstallation after my overhaul has led to a bad seal. Would a gasket material be suitable to recreate the seal?
I have seen many posts that discourage the use of silicone. I don't think I would hesitate to replace if they were cracked but I am thinking this surface can be cleaned up and a long lasting seal achieved.

Any ideas?

There are a lot of good sealers out there, stay away from the silicone for house hold use. Get the Ultra, from Permatex, or Aviation High Tack.
Lean? Use the clear tube float/ fuel level check to make certain of proper level in each carb?