Jet needle hardware question

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Re: Jet needle hardware question

14 Mar 2011 17:15
#437984
testarossa wrote:
Trying to sort a small problem with the set of VM26 carbs on my 78 KZ1000A2. The bike has a bog when you first roll on the throttle at idle. I have confirmed by use of a wideband O2 sensor that the mixture goes rich (10:1) when this happens. Unfortunately, this corresponds to the same throttle position for steady state cruise at 45mph in top gear where the bike stumbles noticably. I have the rest of the jetting right where I want it, and the bike runs really well otherwise.

So I was reviewing the parts diagram at kawasaki.com and discovered somethings that I seem to be missing. Looking at the attached diagram, I don't have parts #42, 43, or 45. I just want to verify their correct installation as I have no experience with these particular carbs other than the set that I have. If I'm reading the diagram correctly, the jet needle #17 is inserted through the washer #45 and the spring #43 and then the throttle valve #18 so that the circlip #16 rests on top of the washer. Then the ring #42 is on top of of the circlip. If this is correct, it would seem to explain why I have to use #125 main jets and needles on the 5th clip to run right. I also am running #17.5 pilots, and I suspect that if the needles were correctly positioned, then I could step down a pilot size and remove the rich condition just off idle.

Also, I have 5DL31 needles and the correct needles according to Kawasaki are 5CN7. According to my research, the 5DL31 needles are leaner at higher throttle settings than the 5CN7. Possibly supporting the need for very large main jets in a basically stock motor. OBTW I'm running the dreaded pods and 4 into 1 exhaust.

Edited to add picture.

The washers would be plastic & the lower one is quite thick. Under that you would have a spring.

If those are missing, your needle would not be anywhere near the correct design position. You would be able to lift the needle with your fingers & rock it up and down a VERY noticeable amount. We're talking several mm, not thousandths of a mm...

As such, the needle would have nothing securing it firmly in the slide. It would drop to the bottom of it's mount well and on closing throttle, the friction of the needle in the needle jet could allow the needle to move up toward the throttle arm several mm.

If your carb rack is missing those parts and is designed to have them, you need them.

The last OEM USA model I recall using 5dl31 needles was the 1977 KZ1000 LTD.

Pop off a filter. Open your throttle. Grab the needle with some tiny needle nose or tweezers and see if you can move it up and down inside the slide... holler back

Larry C

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Re: Jet needle hardware question

14 Mar 2011 17:51
#438004
larrycavan wrote:
testarossa wrote:
Trying to sort a small problem with the set of VM26 carbs on my 78 KZ1000A2. The bike has a bog when you first roll on the throttle at idle. I have confirmed by use of a wideband O2 sensor that the mixture goes rich (10:1) when this happens. Unfortunately, this corresponds to the same throttle position for steady state cruise at 45mph in top gear where the bike stumbles noticably. I have the rest of the jetting right where I want it, and the bike runs really well otherwise.

So I was reviewing the parts diagram at kawasaki.com and discovered somethings that I seem to be missing. Looking at the attached diagram, I don't have parts #42, 43, or 45. I just want to verify their correct installation as I have no experience with these particular carbs other than the set that I have. If I'm reading the diagram correctly, the jet needle #17 is inserted through the washer #45 and the spring #43 and then the throttle valve #18 so that the circlip #16 rests on top of the washer. Then the ring #42 is on top of of the circlip. If this is correct, it would seem to explain why I have to use #125 main jets and needles on the 5th clip to run right. I also am running #17.5 pilots, and I suspect that if the needles were correctly positioned, then I could step down a pilot size and remove the rich condition just off idle.

Also, I have 5DL31 needles and the correct needles according to Kawasaki are 5CN7. According to my research, the 5DL31 needles are leaner at higher throttle settings than the 5CN7. Possibly supporting the need for very large main jets in a basically stock motor. OBTW I'm running the dreaded pods and 4 into 1 exhaust.

Edited to add picture.

The washers would be plastic & the lower one is quite thick. Under that you would have a spring.

If those are missing, your needle would not be anywhere near the correct design position. You would be able to lift the needle with your fingers & rock it up and down a VERY noticeable amount. We're talking several mm, not thousandths of a mm...

As such, the needle would have nothing securing it firmly in the slide. It would drop to the bottom of it's mount well and on closing throttle, the friction of the needle in the needle jet could allow the needle to move up toward the throttle arm several mm.

If your carb rack is missing those parts and is designed to have them, you need them.

The last OEM USA model I recall using 5dl31 needles was the 1977 KZ1000 LTD.

Pop off a filter. Open your throttle. Grab the needle with some tiny needle nose or tweezers and see if you can move it up and down inside the slide... holler back

Larry C


I agree 100%. I would get the parts to install the 5cn7 needles and start from there. Shim it correctly and work on the main and pilot jetting. If you get it close and the part throttle performance still runs rich get the next leaner or richer needle and try it.
'78 KZ1075 LTD
stage 1 head by Larry Cavanaugh
race built crank by John Pearson
Mikuni rs34's
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Re: Jet needle hardware question

14 Mar 2011 18:10
#438005
testarossa wrote:
As for oil consumption, I must say that I have noticed that the bike uses about 1/2 quart per tank of gas.

Half a quart per tank of gas is terrible oil consumption, indicating a worn out engine. Thats not slipping past the valve seals, for sure.

Bikes/ATV's, etc, all have a stumble off idle/low throttle when the engine is worn out in this manner. This is especially prevelant in 2 strokes. The AFR drops too low due to ineffiecient combustion, not carburetion.

Get some oversize pistons and have the the block re-bored. This will solve your issue - a nice fresh high compression engine wont stumble with the correct stock jetting.

Or... fiddle with the carburetion till you get it to dissapear, then live with the worn out engine :P

Whichever :silly:

Best of luck.

B)
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator

79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors ;)

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Re: Jet needle hardware question

14 Mar 2011 19:54
#438020
OK, I did as Larry suggested, and the needle isn't moving much at all. So that theory is out the window. As for the 5dl31 needles, it just fits with all the other LTD stuff that was hung on this bike when I bought it. It is an A2 frame but the bodywork, seat, and bars were LTD pieces, so it makes sense that the carbs would be from an LTD.

I'm not happy about the oil consumption, but it has seemed to diminish slightly as I go. I probably have about 500-600 miles since I got it running. Speedo isn't connected, so I'm just guessing about the total mileage. My plan is to put a 1075 kit in it with a ported head, cams, and probably something like those 29mm cr special carbs. I just got my spare head the other day, and I'm working on getting the funds for pistons as we speak. That GS750 is almost ready for sale, and if I can move it, I'll be well on the way to my plan.

I can live with a worn engine for a while. I guess I could do the dreaded compression test.
1978 KZ1000 A2 Click--->Build Thread
2004 ZX-10R
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Re: Jet needle hardware question

15 Mar 2011 03:06
#438089
testarossa wrote:
OK, I did as Larry suggested, and the needle isn't moving much at all. So that theory is out the window. As for the 5dl31 needles, it just fits with all the other LTD stuff that was hung on this bike when I bought it. It is an A2 frame but the bodywork, seat, and bars were LTD pieces, so it makes sense that the carbs would be from an LTD.

I'm not happy about the oil consumption, but it has seemed to diminish slightly as I go. I probably have about 500-600 miles since I got it running. Speedo isn't connected, so I'm just guessing about the total mileage. My plan is to put a 1075 kit in it with a ported head, cams, and probably something like those 29mm cr special carbs. I just got my spare head the other day, and I'm working on getting the funds for pistons as we speak. That GS750 is almost ready for sale, and if I can move it, I'll be well on the way to my plan.

I can live with a worn engine for a while. I guess I could do the dreaded compression test.

Carburetors that have the washers and spring arrangement will have a fairly deep well in the slide there the needle resides. It should be quite obvious that something was funky when you had them apart to change needle clip positions.

If they are from the LTD, the needle jet would be O-5, pilots 15, stock mains 105, 5DL31 needle.

A 125 main jet isn't really out of the question. I've seen KZ's like from 110 to 125 with pods and stock carbs. It can vary from bike to bike and location to location.

However, needing the needles all the way rich with a larger pilot jet is out of the norm.

With OEM VM series carburetors, the newer the rack, the leaner the jetting.....They kept leaning them out as the years went by ;)

If you came across a rack of 28 pumpers and put your needles in them, you'd have a pretty good set of stock carbs to work with... JMO

PS...throw a timing light on it and make sure your cylinder pars are firing 180 apart and the advancer isn't bouncing all around. Weak springs are common as well as binding from corrosion...

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Re: Jet needle hardware question

15 Mar 2011 06:30
#438119
larrycavan wrote:

If they are from the LTD, the needle jet would be O-5, pilots 15, stock mains 105, 5DL31 needle.

That's exactly how they were set up.

If you came across a rack of 28 pumpers and put your needles in them, you'd have a pretty good set of stock carbs to work with... JMO

I wondered about these since you can find them for reasonably cheap prices on ebay. The trouble is that I don't really want to spend too much money buying multiple carb racks. I might rather save and buy the CR's. I like the idea of new carbs without worn parts.
PS...throw a timing light on it and make sure your cylinder pars are firing 180 apart and the advancer isn't bouncing all around. Weak springs are common as well as binding from corrosion...

This should be a non issue. I'm running a Dyna 2000. Overkill I know, but just like the carbs I didn't want to waste money installing a Dyna S and then later stepping up to the 2000. I timed it per the instructions when I installed it. Haven't given it a second thought since. I can verify if you think it's necessary. BTW, I did check advance when I installed it, and unsurprisingly it advanced just fine at the time.
1978 KZ1000 A2 Click--->Build Thread
2004 ZX-10R
2007 Harley Sportster 1200
2020 Harley Street Glide Special
Angola, IN

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Re: Jet needle hardware question

15 Mar 2011 09:29
#438135
Well I decided to run a compression test to confirm the inevitable. I have been purposely avoiding this since I knew that it wouldn't be great, but the time is now.

#1=140psi #2=120 #3=130 and #4=150.

Test was performed cold with throttle wide open and all the plugs out. Last time I ran the bike was two days ago. Should I run a warm one? Seems about right for the two middle cylinders to be the lower ones on these motors, right? The numbers themselves don't seem too bad, but the variance from one cylinder to the next is too high.
1978 KZ1000 A2 Click--->Build Thread
2004 ZX-10R
2007 Harley Sportster 1200
2020 Harley Street Glide Special
Angola, IN

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