Here's a couple links.
making choke flaps
However, I found this in one of my old posts:
I found out it was Harm (a member here) who blocked all of the flap openings on the TK22 choke plates. Then when he starts the bike, he justs lifts the choke open slightly as he's cranking and it starts right up. That would emulate the blocking-the-airbox-mouth method. I think he also just put an extra detent on the choke lever just above the closed position that he goes to after starting.
I believe you can pull the choke plates out without removing the carbs. As a matter of fact, I don't remove the carbs for much of anything short of a complete rebuild. I use allen screws on the bowls so I can access the jets from below, and the needle, throttle-balance, and choke is all handled from above. One trick is to put a super-thin coat of antiseize on the bowl gasket. The bowls come off like new then. In 15 years of changing jets etc. I haven't replaced one bowl gasket yet, on about a dozen sets of TK22's.
I recommend the fast-idle screw mod I mentioned on the previous page of this thread. That will also help with starting in different temperature ranges.
Here is a useful modification to the fast idle screw:
Fast idle mod.
Here are some manometer notes:
Manometer notes.
