TOPIC:

Before I deem this tool "a piece of ship", I'd like to hear from anyone that's actually used one with results.

I used my $80.00 tool for the first time today, as I'm slowly working on my '85 GPz550 installing the 615 kit. I have a replacement bottom end(a.k.a.short block) that only has 12000 miles on it as a doner, so I don't want to split the cases to replace the chain. My old engine has a case of #3 rod knock at the 44,000 mile mark. I have a new cam chain from Kawasaki, and want to replace the cam chain with the tool and link I bought from Z1 Enterprises.

I started to use the tool today, as it should be pretty self explanitory, or so I thought it was. The part of the tool than pushes the link pins thru the actual chain isn't long enough to push the pins completely thru the link(in the picture above it's on the right). How is one supposed to extract it any further? I fiddle-farted around with it, for more than I wanted to, and after much frustration, I stopped.

Someone has used this tool with success, right?

This is what it looks like, and I can't go any further.



Post edited by: CoreyClough, at: 2006/12/11 08:16

I did find this:
home.earthlink.net/~wrenchtwister/camtool.pdf
and it explains how to use a similar tool, but the other springy pin still won't push the pins out completely. I've tried tapping lightly with a hammer, and pulling with pliers to remove the pins...no dice.

Post edited by: CoreyClough, at: 2006/12/11 08:18

i used a tool to splitt and join my camchain and
o ring chain.
it was a different layout to the 1 youve got, mine
you wound the pin in until they were through by
turning on a small t bar sam with the rivetter.
never seen 1 like that before

I've used the one on the drive chain from Motion Pro, with great success. This one's giving me problems.

I'll check back in this evening.

Thanks for any help in advance!

Hi Corey, I don't know if they intended that tool for the Hy-vo style chains. Normally they are not chains you split and rejoin (at least I've never attempted this and I've not heard of anyone else doing it).

With most chains you only need to push the both pins about 1/8" and the sideplate falls off. This style of chain would require a VERY long pin.

Go to the tool store, Ace hardware may have, harbour freight, maybe Northern, or mscdirect.com and get yourself a pin drift that's slightly smaller than the pin. Drill a hole slightly larger than the pin through a piece of steel. Use that as a backing and drive the pin out.

Thanks for the replies, and suggestions.

Jeff,
I ordered the cam chain tool and the link at the same time, so I assumed(Bad News Bears) that it would work. That link I have is the correct size. I agree that the pin needs to go in further, and there's another cam chain/drive chain tool but I don't know if that pin goes the length for my situation.

Duck,
Sounds like a good idea, as I don't want to bend any of the remaining link "tabs" that the pin must travel thru to exit.

I have a better solution. I work for a BMW, Mini, and BMW Bike Dealership, and I'll ask one of the 6 technicians if they have something that will work. If they don't, then Duck's suggestion will have to do.

CoreyClough wrote:

I work for a BMW, Mini, and BMW Bike Dealership, and I'll ask one of the 6 technicians if they have something that will work. If they don't, then Duck's suggestion will have to do.

While you're asking them about the chain, I'm looking for a useable mechanical blower (Eaton M45) off a mini or SLK and will appreciate learning where I might score one in good shape for under $200. I see them on ebay but sellers always heve these unsettling disclaimers . Don't know any local 'dealer' mechanics.

I'm not giving up on this cam chain replacement. I have two choices.

1. Have the cases split and "while I'm in there..." replace the main and rod bearings...
2. Buy a cam chain tool that will work for my application. I've tried everything I own to get the remaining pins out of the chain, but nothing seems to work.

No ofense to Z1 Enterprises, but that K & L Tool will not work for the type of chain I have on my GPz. That is something that should be noted on their site.

Does anyone know what tool will work for the chain pictured above? I'd prefer not to split the cases, and do all in #1 above. This engine only has 12,000 miles on it.

I'm open to suggestions.

Duck's suggestion should work for you.

Personally, I'd opt for choice #1. The motor is out, it's winter, it's not difficult to split the cases....it's the "correct" thing to do. You'll know what you've got.

Mechanical short cuts are often the source of trouble down the road....

JMO

Larry C

CoreyClough wrote:

I'm not giving up on this cam chain replacement. I have two choices.

1. Have the cases split and "while I'm in there..." replace the main and rod bearings...
2. Buy a cam chain tool that will work for my application. I've tried everything I own to get the remaining pins out of the chain, but nothing seems to work.

No ofense to Z1 Enterprises, but that K & L Tool will not work for the type of chain I have on my GPz. That is something that should be noted on their site.

Does anyone know what tool will work for the chain pictured above? I'd prefer not to split the cases, and do all in #1 above. This engine only has 12,000 miles on it.

I'm open to suggestions.

Larry,
Winter here in California isn't that bad. Better in Sothern California, than here up north. More rain.

Duck,
I'll try the drift pin.
Oh, sorry, no superchargers that I know of.

I've asked a tech at work that use to work for Kawasaki from '87 - '92, and he said if he remembers correctly, the crank should be able to be lifted enough to get the new cam chain in, and then set back down, without having to break the new cam chain, and add a link. Seeing on how I have the 2 engines, I disassembled the 44,000 mile one to test for this, and it's not true. The drive chain is in the way, of "lifting" the crank out. I'm not about to take on this task with the 12,000 mile engine. disassembling is one thing, but putting it back together, I'd rather have someone that's experienced in this area do the work. I'll ask if he wants to do a "side job" during the holidays. Just for sh*ts and giggles, I phoned a Kawasaki dealer, only to find out this job would cost around $650.00-$750.00. Send out the crank for polishing, check the rods, gasket kit... Way beyond what I want to spend. It's already out of the bike with the head, cylinders, and pistons out(short block). For a free bike, I've already got close to $2500.00 into it in the state it's in. I have a few spare items from ebay. Who doesn't?



This 615 kit has been sitting in the box since June of this year, and the cylinders I had sent out to APE were machined for this kit. Been way too long.


The cylinder head is in Canada, getting some chamber, and port cleaning up as I didn't like the stock chambers. Why Canada? Long story, but the labor is free, in exchange for some stock GPz550 parts.
Nothing big in the ports, just a little cleaning. It's the condition of the stock chambers that I want cleaned a bit.


Stock.



This is his work, but not as much as this for me.


This is the before.


This is what they'll look like afterwards.


I agree it would be a terrible thing if I got it all together, and something in the bottom end went wrong. I removed the oil pan and saw nothing there that would lead me to believe would need one. I'll have to price this out. Damn, I should have left that cam chain in there alone, but nooooooo, I had to mess with it.



I did find that the higher mileage engine failed due to a spun rod bearing on #3. I hear this is common on the 750's and 1100's of early to mid '80's era. Fact or Fiction?


Thank for the comments and suggestions.

Corey,

I'll bet you that if you sat down with an OEM service manual for your bike that you could do the bottom end case split and reassembly.

If you have the skills to do the top end, then you should be able to do the bottom end.

It's not as difficult as you might be setting your thoughts on....

Larry C:)