TOPIC:

How can I tell if all is well with my cam chain tensioner? I'm getting some noise when its running. I took off the valve cover and there is some play in the chain between the cams, but this may be because of the rubber guide in the top of the valve cover.

How can I check the tensioner, or disassemble it to see if its working ok?

thanks

Hey Floridamba,
I'm hardly the expert but here's what I know. Read the manual. Advance the engine to some part of the cycle they recommend. Take the tensioner off. Mark the projection of the plunger with some sort of marker and determine if the tensioner is at full extention. Check the strength of the tensioner spring, it's usually in the manual. Take a GOOD look at the wear ing portions of the tensioners. Are they grooved?

There's a bunch of discussion about tensioners failing. I'd bet that most of them failed right after being fiddled with. The tensioners I'm familiar with have a lock bolt that even has it's own locknut. Together these pin the adjuster plunger at the position that the spring is able to push it. The secret is to rotate the engine till the most of the slack is at the tensioner point and then to allow the tensioner to advance by loosening it. Did I imply that you should not rotate the engine without the tensioner in place? Please don't.
Good luck.
Read the manual.
KZCSI

Great advice KZCSI, thanks for the heads-up on the tensioner and not rotating the engine without it being in place.

I have an older manual and the PO gave me a clymer, I've got it here somewhere... I've also got a Concours and have read on the cam chain there and I recognize the procedure you are talking about. I was hoping that by '82 it would be an automatic tensioner.

I'll check it out and post back.


KZCSI wrote:

Hey Floridamba,
I'm hardly the expert but here's what I know. Read the manual. Advance the engine to some part of the cycle they recommend. Take the tensioner off. Mark the projection of the plunger with some sort of marker and determine if the tensioner is at full extention. Check the strength of the tensioner spring, it's usually in the manual. Take a GOOD look at the wear ing portions of the tensioners. Are they grooved?

There's a bunch of discussion about tensioners failing. I'd bet that most of them failed right after being fiddled with. The tensioners I'm familiar with have a lock bolt that even has it's own locknut. Together these pin the adjuster plunger at the position that the spring is able to push it. The secret is to rotate the engine till the most of the slack is at the tensioner point and then to allow the tensioner to advance by loosening it. Did I imply that you should not rotate the engine without the tensioner in place? Please don't.
Good luck.
Read the manual.
KZCSI

Unless I am mistaken, the 82 J motor valve covers have a guide located on the top of the valve cover that aids in tensioning the cam chain. When removed, the cam chain will otherwise appear loose. Look in the valve cover and see if there is a guide as I seem to recall.

What I am saying is, it will appear the chain is a tad slack if you remove the valve cover.

what George says is right,DON'T install the tensioner before instaling the valve cover as you will stretch the cam chain.

the camchain tensioner should be the last thing you install before turning the engine over.

you have to put the main body of the tensioner w/spring in place then insert the side wedge w/spring and cap, be sure the little pin that holds the main wedge/spring is in the main body before instaling.

IMHO the ape part is better, if adjusted right.

Thanks much for the reply - WG is right, there is a guide in the top of the valve cover with a slight bow to it, and it would take up that slack. Once I finish the valve adjustments, I'll button it back up and then check on the cam chain tensioner.

Do you know hou much the APE unit costs and where I could get one? Perhaps Z1Ent?

It took me about 3 hours to figure out the wedgie tensioner the first time I had one off hehe

The wedgie tensioner is probably about the best of the OEM lot I think... they use the same one on the 80s 750 engine... ZX750A and KZ750 type. It works well and is stout. I think the APE tensioner would be a chore if I couldn't see the cam chain Craig... how do you tension if you can see the chain? I like the APE tensioner on the older bikes with an idler arm up on top... you basically roll the chain and see if there is any bunching but the J model needs to have the lid on...

kzzone.com/sprockets.html

Jay

when I instaled mine I finger tightened it first then started the motor,it sounded like a diesel,I adjusted the screw in until the sound went away and backed it off 1/4 turn and tightened the lock nut.

It is begining to rattle a little now so I prally need to adjust it again.