Rods

Hi all. Is there a source for connecting rods for J model 1000?
What is the process in removing/replacing from the crank? Thanks much

You may be able to source rods from Kawasaki.  They’d be used on the Police models up through the early 2000’s.

As for removing and replacing them, the crank is a multi-piece assembly.  The crank needs disassembled, R&R rods, the press the crank back together while ensuring that the rod journals are kept aligned with each other.  Not a DIY job in my opinion.

What’s wrong with your current rods that they warrant replacing?

Later, Doug 

If you are building a high HP engine, and want to make sure the crank can handle the power, you should send it to either Stan Gardner in Maine or John Pearson in Ohio.  These guys do beautiful crank work.  NOT cheap, though.  Falcon used to be another company that does crank work, and maybe they still do, but from what I've read, these other two are much better these days.

StreetfighterKz wrote:

You may be able to source rods from Kawasaki.  They’d be used on the Police models up through the early 2000’s.

As for removing and replacing them, the crank is a multi-piece assembly.  The crank needs disassembled, R&R rods, the press the crank back together while ensuring that the rod journals are kept aligned with each other.  Not a DIY job in my opinion.

What’s wrong with your current rods that they warrant replacing?

Later, Doug 

Definitely not a DIY job unless you have the kit and skills to build a "jig" if the "indexing" isn't perfect the bike will run "as rough as a bears arse" no matter what you do

I have had Gardner do a few cranks and does great work. Last one was $1250 just to disassemble inspect, tru and weld. That cost may have increased. Anything they find wrong is extra but the cranks come out nice and worth the cost for these old bikes. Falcon no longer does cranks. I had a 650 Yamaha done by them years ago 

A local Kawi engine guru has welded two cranks for me at a reasonable rate. Both of those KZ1000 cranks were virgin low mileage parts, so they did not need anything other than pins welded then trueing. One was for a 1327 drag engine and the other was for a 1200 street engine.

When they need disassembled that is when you start to incur some higher costs. If a rod is out of phase, bent, or has some small end damage, that would be the time to send it to a professional shop. Sometimes it may make more sense dollar wise to buy a good used crank instead of fixing one that's too far gone.

If you not intending to make over 200 HP you don't need to spend a ton of money on a crank. Back in the day a lot of cranks were welded in the back of muffler shops

Realistically a stock 1000 would not require a welded crank. They only start to need that modification when you increase the power output significantly.

I bought a 1981 J model for my 78 KZ frame. Upon inspection I found it had dropped a valve and the piston was hard to remove(I think bent wrist pin). I am worried there is damage to the rod. In a quandary  upon what to do as stated it seems expensive to have new rods installed. I have sourced a complete crank/rods for it through eBay and I may just do that but again I thought the motor I bought was good. IDK

My motor is a 1981 J model. What cranks will fit that so I know what to look for?

Formula264 wrote:

My motor is a 1981 J model. What cranks will fit that so I know what to look for?

To the best of my knowledge any "J" series crank so that would be J - K - M - KZ1100 - early GPZ1100 (with 17mm wrist pins) but before spending any money I would inspect what you have - you can pass a 17mm rod through the eye's of all four rods (if ones bent the rod won't pass through all four) check the feel of the bearings etc. The tightness may simply be that the piston is distorted

StreetfighterKz wrote:

You may be able to source rods from Kawasaki.  They’d be used on the Police models up through the early 2000’s.

As for removing and replacing them, the crank is a multi-piece assembly.  The crank needs disassembled, R&R rods, the press the crank back together while ensuring that the rod journals are kept aligned with each other.  Not a DIY job in my opinion.

What’s wrong with your current rods that they warrant replacing?

Later, Doug 

There was a dropped valve in #1 cylinder, not much damage, but the piston pin on #4 was very hard to remove. Weird. I assume it might have damaged the rod. Going to do the 17mm rod through the small ends of rods to see if they all align. 
 

The 17mm rod that Wookie is referencing would be a piece of ground O-1 steel drill rod you can buy at Metal Supermarkets ect. Usually sold by the inch, I think 13" just makes it so maybe get a slightly longer piece.