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P.S. One way to insure that the cam chain does not skip a tooth on the camshaft sprocket is to put a zip tie through one of the holes in the sprocket and tighten it before you move the camshaft. This will prevent the chain from moving relative to that gear. You will still need to be mindful that you do not allow enough slack in the chain as it goes down to the crankshaft to come off the gear down there.

Removing the cams and replacing shims is no problem. I did it first way back in 1978, however if you tighten the camshaft caps to recommended torque you will always strip the threads on the exhaust side before reaching close to spec. Go light on torque. For sure don't try 8ft/lb, aa they will start to strip at about 5 at best. I've posted here many times how to remove the camshafts without any worries of timing problems so won't repeat again as probably most don't care to try. Go by the manual, look at the marks, count 29 teeth or whatever.

Gave it a go today due to the excellent advice from you all. Moving the cam forward one at a time is definitely the way to go. Checked the shim numbers and put it all back until i purchase the correct ones. What do you make of this.
Ex1.  Gap 0.08.  Shim 097
Ex2.  Gap. 0.08.  Shim 260
Ex3   Gap. 0.18.  Shim 260
Ex4. Gap   0.08.  Shim. No Number
In.1  Gap. 0.10.  Shim.  No Number
In. 2. Gap. 0.10. Shim.  265
In  3.  Gap. 0.08  Shim  270
In. 4. Gap  0.08.  Shim. 265.  

The manual says the gap should be between 0.08 and 0.18
​​Number 1 Ex seems to be a part number and a couple no number on at all. 
 

How did you position the cams when measuring clearance?  Did you aim the lobe away from the bucket before measuring?  Or, did you follow the factory manual procedure?  

I positioned the lobe away from the bucket before measuring the gap.

Deon wrote:

I positioned the lobe away from the bucket before measuring the gap.

When measuring this way, the adjacent cam lobe will be compressing the valve spring, which results in the cam being pushed upwards in the camshaft bearing journal clearance.
Result, your measurement will be greater than would be the case if you positioned the cams per the manual.

So, those .08 measurements, are more like .06, and so on, through the set. I would move one step smaller on every valve, other than the one measuring .18mm.  

The no names and the 97 one need to be measured so you know what to replace them with. A gang of years ago I was told by an engine builder that we should aim for intake gaps near the middle of the range, and close to the large end of the range for the exhaust valves.