TOPIC:

wrote:

 Keep that rubber ball away from the bearing for sure. 

Why? Did they make a mistake from factory placing it in and putting PN and drawing in diagram?

For dowels I am not going to put them in. It's not a big deal to buy them, the question - will they fit? Or will they allow engine to close properly? There is 2 dowels on sides which will align halves precisely, those mentioned in my post just interesting why. Skipped/forgot to put on assembly line or something else? More question to someone who took few of those engines apart.

No I'm just saying it looks like its only the one ball and it goes under pin #13 (and to where) I can't seen to find out buy googling it anyway. You for sure want it back where it belongs. Was just saying You don't want them blocking the bearing passage like you had in your pic....... That's cool on the dowels just wanted to point that out too and am hoping somebody that knows for sure will chime in.

There should be dowels front and back of the cases to correctly locate them.  There are also dowels to locate the cylinders on the cases and to locate the head on the cylinders.  They all must be in place for the engine to run correctly.

I have two cases with that rubber ball in the lube hole.  It must serve some purpose and I would not reassemble without it.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationAnother set of question

1. Is this OK? I just placed last order (I hope) with partzilla, but just can't hit "Add" on this stuff: 
Is there something special about those nuts? 

2. Parts 27/28 on picture. My engine didn't have those. Is this because previous owner didn't put it in or it's a variation? Or it's inside of the bolt?

 

Those exhaust nuts are starting to rust, so I would give them a pass. You can use ordinary nuts and lock washers there. Be aware that cheaply zinc coated ones from the big box store will start to rust fairly quickly. Chrome or stainless will look good longer. The factory ones are likely the best quality and having the washer attached will make installation a bit easier,
You definitely need the missing spring and washer for your oil filter. They insure that the filter is properly positioned. Also note the position of the fence (29). On some models it is on top of the filter, on others it goes below.

wrote:

Those exhaust nuts are starting to rust, so I would give them a pass. ... The factory ones are likely the best quality .

Not sure what you mean by that. Yes, original ones were trash. Wouldn't stainless steel M6 nuts be just as good or better? 

 

wrote:

Also note the position of the fence (29). On some models it is on top of the filter, on others it goes below.

It was below which agrees with parts diagram, so I guess this is it. But washer and spring will be needed.

Using stainless steel self secure nuts and washers are the best. You can also use stainless steel header collars ( half moon shells ) Made in Germany i have sent to member Mikaw.

kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/611540-nuts-unscrew-vibration#812477



 
   
 
 
 

wrote:

wrote:

Those exhaust nuts are starting to rust, so I would give them a pass. ... The factory ones are likely the best quality .

Not sure what you mean by that. Yes, original ones were trash. Wouldn't stainless steel M6 nuts be just as good or better? 



 

I was referring to the rusty nuts in the picture you posted above. Yes, stainless self-locking nuts would be as good or better than the factory nuts.

Those nub/washer combos are what was originally used, and would be necessary for a high point resto.  I don't think they are sold any longer.  I got a couple of sets from Webike about 5 years ago.  I normally use M6 nuts with spring washers, or I also use flanged nuts from Japanmoto.

wrote:

Those nub/washer combos are what was originally used, and would be necessary for a high point resto.  I don't think they are sold any longer.  

They are available at $5 ea from partzilla or little cheaper from eBay. I just hate to pay $5 per M6 nut. But $3 for piston clip?? Jeez

I am shooting for pretty original resto, but there is items that already not going to be original: Ignition, exhaust, seat, front brakes(dual disk from C). And who knows what else comes up, I am concentrating on engine right now, not touching frame.

I am constantly thinking myself what is there in keeping it original or shooting for perfect resto? Bragging? Some stuff is just not available (exhaust). And not like I am going to make money on this project. Keeping it nice is my goal (no cafe)

1. Tensioner question. One from 78, one from 79. Both seem to be in good condition. Should I favor one over other?

2. Seals question. For shift rod Do the installed same orientation, face out? Or they installed back to back?