camshaft chain tensioner tighten

slmjim+Z1BEBE wrote: The tensioner plunger has a tapered flat that the tip of the lock bolt contacts. The plunger's taper is thicker at the jug end & becomes thinner toward the spring end.

Once the bolt is snugged onto that tapered flat, the plunger can't 'back off', 'cause the taper won't move past the tip end of the lock bolt. It can't move from a thinner part of the taper where it was initially tightened onto onto a thicker part of the taper.
It doesn't take much torque at all on the lock bolt to secure the plunger very securely. Like some have mentioned above, just snug it. & then snug the locknut. It's not a torque-critical fastener like head nuts, for instance.

An article written by Tech guru Kevin Cameron many years ago postulated that it's better to make some adjustments with the motor at operating temperature. One very specific example he mentioned is camchain tension. His position is that if the cam chain is adjusted cold, that due to thermal expansion of the entire case/jug/head assembly after startup the crank center and cam center(s) move away from each other during heating, resulting in the camchain being slightly over-tight. By how much? That's open to discussion but, it presents an opportunity for maintenance on a more subtle level. Even in the early days of the air-cooled Z motors, it was apparent that the camchain slider shoe at the front of the jugs was somewhat delicate & didn't tolerate overtightened camachains well at all. We've always made camchain adjustments hot.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE