New Genuine Kawasaki Clutch Fiber and Steel Plates

I share your suspicions, Daveo. With so few miles on the springs, they should be fine. The clutch plates do bear inspection. I would also be looking closely at the clutch basket where the plate tabs rub. The tabs are steel and the basket is aluminum.
The last time I looked at a jug (3 or 4 months ago) T4 still carried the JASO MA rating, so it should be fine.

I had a cable that would bind at just the right spot to cause slipping at a certain RPM range. It was good everywhere else. Took it off then tried to spin it. It was binding at the closest point to the #2 pipe. Changed it and it stopped.
Steve

Nessism wrote: Stock clutch sprints are $3.49 each.

www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/92081...c3989b41ee6de28c822c

Never thought I'd say this, let alone think it...that price is reasonable, compared to current listings on ebay. Shipping cost is where it usually gets twisted.

I wonder what is the difference between a (92081-1033) KZ1000P and (92081-1114) KZ1100 clutch spring besides the part number and price?

Those are called clutch springs, and the KZ1000 takes five, and KZ1100 takes six. There is another set of springs in the KZ1100 clutch I wasn't aware of.
Part drawings show twelve (92081-1115) springs are located inside the "clutch damper" KZ1100 clutch mechanism, which the KZ1000 doesn't have.
Makes me wonder about those too.

The clutches differ, while the engine are alike and share many parts. :huh:

www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz1100a2-shaft-19...04.html#.XkasBrh7mt8

www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-kz1000p3-police-1...03.html#.Xkay5Lh7mt8


:side:

The best way for me to tell it's time for new fiber plates is by powering up a big hill.
The original steel plates shouldn't go bad and I use stock springs (easy on the hand )and fiber plates, I have a newer style clutch release with ball bearings that I may install this Winter.

I'm getting ready to swap out the gears for a fresher set and while I was inspecting the clutch basket I was reminded that the clutch plates dig into the basket over time and leave grooves and burrs in it that may hang up the plates, you can feel them by running a finger along the slots,( be careful not to cut your self)
I have a points file that I use to clean this up, works great!
I have a small square stone that I use to take any burrs off of the inner aluminum " clutch hub"

Plus 1 on Rotella T4 10w40

Dave, since the 1100 takes 6 and the 1000 takes 5, the 1100 springs are slight weaker, (smaller OD wire used) since there are more of them. I have 5 1100 OEM springs from partzilla here, if you would like them. I was not aware of the 1100 having 6 weaker springs when I ordered them.



The steels have a sharp edge and a dull edge. I set all of the dull edges so that they cannot dig into the hub when the clutch engages. I am sure you remember the correct orientation of the plates, since YOU were the one that brought it to my attention.

Oh yeah, I forgot about the fun part.

:huh: