TOPIC:

My tachometer has worked fine, these winter I uinstalled the meter for replacing the lights..,,

When I started up the bike first time these season, approx 4 weeks ago the tachometer was not working.

I found the wirer to be twisted off in the motor end.., so I orded a new wire and installed today and started up the bike... still it was not working... and I found the wire to be broken on the same place.....

Expensive wirer....

Then I tried to turn the wirer when it was installed in the tachometer.... and it was not possible to turn the wire left or right....

What can I do? I tried to kick the meter with a rubber hamer... no improvement....

The meter has worked fine the last seasons, and the bike has been stored heated these winter.... so I think something must have happend when I installed the lights....,

Hello I’ve read that if you don’t store tach meter like it’s actually on bike. Laying on its back , side or face it can screw them up. What I’ve read no more than a couple hours laying willynilly and there screwed , post a pic I might have one regards Matt

Hem.... learn something new each day...

I need to try to take it out and see if I can loosen it up....

Here is photo of it:

Since the inner cable is getting twisted/broken, it sounds like the tachometer must be seized or something. guessing.
I would install an old cable into the tach & try to spin it by hand or use a drill to spin it. If it won't spin, then the tachometer is probably broken or something.



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Make sure the tach & speedo cables are routed correctly, with no sharp bends that can break the inner sheath.

We've never seen a seized tach or speedo but, anything can happen on old stuff. To check for a seized tach, insert the drive cable alone into the tach sans outer sheath, then spin. If it won't, the tach must have seized.

All the problems we've seen manifesting as high mortality of tach or speedo drive cables have been either decades-old grease or broken inner cable sheaths.

Tach & speedo cables were greased at the factory. After decades much of the volatile components in the grease will have evaporated, leaving thick, sticky goo lacking in lubricity. Same thing happens to the grease within the mechanical ignition advance cam where it rotates on the hollow shaft of the ignition advancer; it just happens faster there because of the heat. A speedo/tach drive cable being forced to rotate in such a gooey environment could be stressed enough to break.

The outer tach & speedo cables consist of a wire-wrapped inner sheath covered by the plastic sheath we see from the outside. The inner sheath is made of very tightly-wrapped wire not unlike a very tightly-wrapped tension spring. If a cable has been flexed excessively the wire on the inner sheath can break, exposing a sharp edge that will cut a drive cable in short order. We check for broken inner sheath windings by removing the drive cable, then flexing the outer cable into a curve. If there is a broken winding in the inner sheath, that break will manifest as an obvious kink in the otherwise smooth curve. Such a cable is replaced. Often, if such a kink is seen, a polished mark or developing cut can be seen on the outer surface of the drive cable. A common breakage point is also where the sheath enters the stiff steel sleeve at each end of the cable.

Any time we encounter old tach & speedo cables, we always remove the drive cable and flush copious amounts of solvent in both directions through the inner sheath to remove the old grease, using the drive cable as a probe, sort of like a steel "Q-tip" to help expel dirt & old grease. The current crop of synthetic wheel bearing greases are good for new lube, as they are much more resistant to losing lubricity volatiles than any mineral-based grease.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Sounds like the grease inside the tach has gotten stiff. You can open the tach by carefully prying off the bezel and then you can look for problems inside. Baking the tach at 60C for an hour or so will soften up the grease some too.

I took the tacho out today and sprayed some silicon lube in the whole and used a small screw driver, and suddenly it started to turn around...
I used a electrical screw driver connected to the wire and got 7000 RPM hehe

So for now its working perfect

Only need to receive the new tacho wirer....

Will test the tacho before I install the new wire so I don`t break one more

Did the tach seem stuck before you applied the lubricant? If unsure & before breaking another cable, I would probably connect an old cable to the tach drive (without connecting the tachometer), then run the engine to make sure nothing weird is going on at the engine & causing the cable to break. I've never had to deal with a problem like this.


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martin_csr wrote: Did the tach seem stuck before you applied the lubricant? If unsure & before breaking another cable, I would probably connect an old cable to the tach drive (without connecting the tachometer), then run the engine to make sure nothing weird is going on at the engine & causing the cable to break. I've never had to deal with a problem like this.


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I checked the output on the engine, it turned stady and stable around.

The tacho was stuck, so I’m sure that was the problem.

My problem is, can it get stuck again...

Can it get stuck again? I have no idea. But since a couple of cables broke, I would guess yes. just a guess.

Does the tachometer have any dents? I'm thinking maybe it could be damaged inside. ???


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I’m planing install new wirer and cross my fingers. Maybe something happend when replaced the lightballs..,