'78 KZ650 Valve Adjustment Gone Wrong!

Newbie here on the forums. First off...you all are great and have helped me tons so far. Thank you!

I have a 1978 Kz650SR D1A. I had it running quite well, however I had a leak coming from the valve cover so my plan was to simply replace gasket with new oem one. After successfully getting the old gasket off I figured I should check valve clearances using both factory method and easy "lobe facing directly opposite of bucket" method. Both methods showed I had to do some reshimming. I used the valve adjustment method that a generous soul had shared on here by moving one cam over at a time (my apologies for not remembering the name of that kind and knowledgeable person). This step I believe went well and was pretty straight forward. I didn't think I skipped a tooth at all but then when I put everything back together I'm not able to turn the motor over by hand with the 17mm socket more than two full turns. Just hits a solid block. I had undone the chain tensioner prior to removing cams and after inspection I decided to purchase the APE manual tensioner because of the praise I read about on this forum. When I put everything back together per the factory book I originally turned the motor over to make sure it was timed correctly and I must admit I felt some slippage and some not-so comforting grinding to the motor that I had never felt. Nothing has fell down into the abyss.

So... all and all I am stumped. I'm not extremely experienced with this motor nor a mechanic but find myself mechanically inclined. I believe the chain timing, cams, and all are out of what...sadly to say and admit. I'd like to give it a go if someone has suggestions before handing it off to the pros.

Thanks!!!

If it now doesn't turn over, your valve timing is off. DO NOT try and push thru the hard spot. When you initially took the cams out did you happen to set it to TDC prior to cam removal?

I'd remove the cams and carefully turn the motor over until you reach 1-4 T (TDC) as indicated on the advancer behind the points. Then install the exhaust cam, and lastly the intake cam. Follow the procedure from the service manual and all should be good with the world.

@baldy I did set it at TDC as instructed.

@nessism I will follow your instructions and follow up on this thread.

Thank you both for the quick turnaround!

@nessism put exhaust cam (at TDC) at EX mark but now I dont have enough slack on the chain to put inlet cam into its spot. Any advice? I used the procedure from the book and kept chain taught.

Is the cam chain tensioner off? If so rotate the crank a little each way while pulling up on the chain. It might be bunched up at the crank.
Steve

@Swest I had tried that but will try again before headed out this morning and update. Thank you!

It sounds like the chain is not sitting correctly on the crankshaft sprocket. Remove the tensioner. Remove the cams and while holding to chain taut rotate the engine several times to ensure the chain is properly moving through your hand while you hold it. Then set 1/4 at top dead center. Do not allow any slack in the chain while you do this. Then follow the procedure in the book. There may be several marks on your exhaust cam sprocket. Be sure to use the correct mark when you set it in the engine.

Oh no! Last night I had the chain rolling through my hand as I gently turned the engine over. This morning I went to chain because the chain didn't have enough slack and the chain is not catching anything. I can rotate the engine freely but no movement from the chain. This isn't good...

Use both hands about the width of the cams, lower the chain and fish for the sprocket. Should be easy enough. I always have a piece of wire attached to the frame back bone to hang the chain while I work.
Steve

I've done all the things you all have advised and got the chain rotating again, however I'm still having issues.

I install exhaust cam at EX mark parallel to head with chain taught via wire on the frame. Then I install inlet cam to EX mark parallel to head. 36 links I've counted so good there. This is all done with engine rotated to TDC.

Then I put cap bolts on and tighten each one per instructions. During this process the cams move and force timing out of TDC and cam marks start to shift but no slipping on the chain. Once I have them all torqued down, I insert my chain tensioner. Once that is installed I rotate the engine and still feel either slippage of the chain (even though I didn't prior to tightening cap bolts) or I still can go a full rotation while rotating the engine by hand. I've undone and redone this process very carefully about 5 times and results are the same.

I had to walk away as calmly as possible...any help is appreciated.

I got that movement of the cams a couple times while tightening the caps and I anchored the 17mm wrench (down below) with a tool box and cement block while on tdc and it held things in place real nice. while tightening. Maybe go back to the stock tensioner for now too?? With it tensioned right I was right at one inch or a hair under out on the plunger although difference on wear could change that slightly. You do have the plugs out too right? Your always going clockwise in rotation too? I feel for you this gets my blood pressure going worrying more than anything.