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Internal engine bolt/nut 20 Sep 2018 01:41 #791152

  • Ojisan rider
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Aloha guys. I been slowly collecting parts for my KZ/GPz build and started to build my engine while I wait for my chassis parts to be painted.

Now, my question is, except for some unique shape nut or bolt, can I replace the internal bolt(s) or nut(s) to hardware stuff? Say something like clutch cover bolt? If I can't find one, maybe get separate bolt and washer that will fit? Of course, I will make sure that bolt or nut will be highest class available, or at least no less than the stock bolt/nut. If not available, I will buy online, but I figure if I can use hardware stuff, it will cut down my rebuild time and cost (no free shipping to where I live).

Any thought on this? Oh, and BTW, I'm not trying to replace all my internal bolts or nut. Just the one I can't find at the moment.
82' KZ750-R1 cafe racer style. Clip-on, Rear set, Fork-Brace, Mikuni Flat-slide (forgot the size), Kerker.
84' GPz750 (basket case). everything are in pieces.
89' ZX750-H1 (ZX-7 Ninja). Resurrection project are on going with my KZ750. Everything is stock.

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Internal engine bolt/nut 20 Sep 2018 05:31 #791155

  • ThatGPzGuy
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I usually replace the engine external screws (like the clutch cover) with SS socket head bolts. You can get these at the hardware store but it's much cheaper to buy in bulk from a place like McMaster Carr . There are also these guys where you can purchase only the items you need Bolt Depot .

As for internal engine fasteners I would try to stick with factory unless there's no other alternative. The McMaster site will give you the specs for their fasteners if you need to substitute.
Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"

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Internal engine bolt/nut 20 Sep 2018 06:13 #791156

  • 650ed
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You may want to check out the site below. They have a wide selection. Ed

www.boltdepot.com/Metric_machine_screws_Phillips_pan_head.aspx
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Internal engine bolt/nut 20 Sep 2018 07:13 #791157

  • Nessism
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Many of the internal fasteners are special purpose and/or hardened to a high grade spec. I wouldn't replace any without specific study as to the purpose and requirements. If you care to share what specific hardware you are thinking about replacing we can weigh in with recommendations. A snap shot of the part, or at least a snipped image from the factory service manual or parts fishe showing the fastener in question would be helpful. Using Window's "snipping tool" is very handy to grab images and annotate using the highlighter or pen. Attach the image to your post here and DON'T FORGET TO CLICK "INSERT" so the image shows up in high resolution.

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Internal engine bolt/nut 21 Sep 2018 02:43 #791177

  • Ojisan rider
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Thanks guys. I'm still collecting parts at this time, and haven't look hard enough for the stock bolt(s). I just noticed some of the bolts are missing, and I'm pretty sure I have it somewhere. BUT, just in case I can't find it, I just wanted to know the options I have for the internal.

Yeah, I know about the external and because of the age of the bolts, some are breaking off as either by tighten it or take it off. McMaster-Carr was my favorite place to buy lots of stuff, but when I sent them email asking about shipping, although they have flat rate box listed on the shipping option, they actually DO NOT offer the flat rate box. I think I still have their original message somewhere just in case if anyone ask me.

Anyway, thanks for the input guys. I have no problem buying the bolts from Kawasaki. I was just looking for some other way to cut the rebuild time. I don't want to risk engine blowing up just to save few days or dollars.
82' KZ750-R1 cafe racer style. Clip-on, Rear set, Fork-Brace, Mikuni Flat-slide (forgot the size), Kerker.
84' GPz750 (basket case). everything are in pieces.
89' ZX750-H1 (ZX-7 Ninja). Resurrection project are on going with my KZ750. Everything is stock.

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Internal engine bolt/nut 21 Sep 2018 07:13 #791187

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Don't break any more bolts. Instead, soak the threads with Kroil (see www.kanolabs.com ) for 2 or 3 days and you will be amazed at how you be able to remove them without damaging them. No joke. Below is an image of the stuff I use. It really does work much better than I expected. Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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Internal engine bolt/nut 21 Sep 2018 21:10 #791218

  • Ojisan rider
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650ed wrote: Don't break any more bolts. Instead, soak the threads with Kroil (see www.kanolabs.com ) for 2 or 3 days and you will be amazed at how you be able to remove them without damaging them. No joke. Below is an image of the stuff I use. It really does work much better than I expected. ED


Thanks Ed. But believe me, I wasn't forcing to remove the bolt(s). Bolt head didn't look all that bad, so put the socket, turn it and SNAP! Are the usual case. Yeah, I usually use WD-40 (someone recently told me about PB Blaster, so I have a can now) for those rusted bolt(s) or nut(s). And that don't work, I usually use some heat (of course, not on those plastic pieces or rubber seals!) to remove it.

It's one of those "looks can be deceiving" type of thing................
82' KZ750-R1 cafe racer style. Clip-on, Rear set, Fork-Brace, Mikuni Flat-slide (forgot the size), Kerker.
84' GPz750 (basket case). everything are in pieces.
89' ZX750-H1 (ZX-7 Ninja). Resurrection project are on going with my KZ750. Everything is stock.

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