TOPIC:

Finally found someone with a carburetor sync set that they let me borrow to balance my carbs. I noticed that the vacuum ports on the engine carb boots do not unscrew to put the metal straws that slow the needle bouncing around into the carb boots. So I tried using a little piece of vac line on the threaded side to connect it to the ports which slowed the bouncing down. But I noticed that every gauge was in the "late valve timing or vac leax" on the left side of the set I'm using. I set the carbs to at least all be even as possible but I noticed that the idle at neutral rpm is supposed to be 1000 but if I try to set it there the bike will run like its about to die and sometimes will. But after I made the adjustments the bike ran fine for about a day or 2 then one morning it was really struggling to stay running. It died while I was coasting down the hill I live on then I had to leave the choke half on for about half my 15 min trip to work. And now it will run without choke if I keep it at at least 2 rpm but when I take off unless I baby the clutch it almost dies. It has a super "throaty" sound now and I'm getting a crackle between gears and lots of popping when coming down on rpms. Sorry I'm always posting new topics but I just keep having issues and this is my first bike lol. If anyone can give me ideas of what to look at that would be great thank you as always!

After the engine is warm, I would set the idle to about 1200 rpms. When the motorcycle & tachometer were new, 1000 rpms would be expected, but the bike & tach are now 35+ yrs old. In regards to the valves & timing, two things you should do are the valve clearance check & timing advancer service. You could check the timing with a strobe light.

Valve clearance. Doing the check is fairly straightforward. adjusting the valves is more work but should be doable as many a first timer have done it. I've checked the clearances but haven't had to do the adjustment yet.

Timing advancer. Clean, check & lubricate the timing advancer. Separate the rotor from the advancer body & fill the groove with grease & apply grease to the springs & pivot points. Inspect it, especially the springs, & operate it to make sure the rotor snaps back. Re-install & tighten the advancer bolt to the correct torqe spec. When doing the valves, do not use the advancer bolt to turn the crankshaft.

I have to replace the cam end plugs and got a lot that has the plugs and a new valve cover gasket, would I be able to check it while I have the cover off? Or is there something else I have to do and I will have to get some feeler gauges I know that. I also had to install a Dyna S ignition, would this have any effect on the timing advancer? When I installed the Dyna I got the timing as close as possible but I remember that there was something off just not exactly what it was. Also what type of grease should I use? I work on aircraft and we have I believe Mobil brand general aviation grease would that work?

Yes. kill two or three birds with one stone.

I'm not that familiar with the Dyna S, but I believe it comes with a rotor that you fit onto the advancer body in place of the oem stock rotor & you're supposed to lubricate the advancer shaft before installing the rotor.

Use a grease that can withstand the head & not sling off. I use high temperature wheel bearing grease. I guess it's a white grease. Dielectric grease & white lithium grease didn't work. both were too thin & seem to have evaporated or something.

I do believe this is high temp but I'll look as it is decently thick. But however the weirdest thing happened.. I was on my way home from getting feeler gauges and I took off accelerating faster than usual then BOOM the bike kicked back to it's normal power and sounded much better. Still have the excessive crackling and popping but it is much better now. So I took the long way home trying to see if it'd go back to the bogging like before but it did fine the rest of the way. When I got home I set the rpms to about 1.2 like you said and you can defiantly tell something is off the idle didn't sound steady at all. Will look into valve clearance this weekend now that I have feeler gauges. Will the ones I got work? .0015in(.038mm) through .035in(.889mm) 32 blade set

The running issues could be ignition-electrical related. 
Do you have the stock ignition coils & spark plug wires or new Dyna coils & new plug wire set?




....

Download this manual. It will save you many headaches and shekels

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...l%20KZ650%201981.pdf

The valve clearance business begins on page 2-5.

I'm running stock coils and wires as the Dyna coils are a little out of my price range for a while. And I did download the manual for the h1 with 2 other models as well it has been helpful but sometimes it's just confusing lol. Going to check my valve clearance tonight hopefully. I'm almost positive I don't have any vacuum leaks on the intake carb boots as the gauge set showed all of my carbs had valve timing or vac leaks

The Dyna S system uses the existing Kawasaki mechanical advance, but replaces the magnetic trigger with their own version. Yes you do grease (I believe the instructions say light coating of oil) the inside of the Dyna magnetic trigger. BUT...you still need to remove the mechanical advance mechanism from the shaft, clean, lube, and reinstall it, then reinstall the Dyna S magnetic trigger.  Make absolutely certain you don't get the trigger 180 degree out of position.

Redo the spark plug wire connections >> unscrew the ribbed compression boots at the coils >> there should be gaskets n stuff on the plug wires for watertight connections.  The plug caps untwist from the spark plug wires >> if there's crusty oxidation, nip off the ends of the plug wires. 
Or get new 7mm copper core plug wires. OmniSpark set >> possible fitment >> there are many others sets to choose from

Warm up the motorcycle & ride it at highway speed, then stop & feel the coils >> press hard with your fingers >> they should be warm, not hot.  Don't get burned by the valve cover. ..Mine were very hot to the touch, so I got new green Dyna 3.0 ohm coils & new Dyna plug wire set.

Also, the bike needs a good, fully charged battery to run right. and properly maintained, especially if it's a wet cell type >> in case the electrolyte is low & you need to add distilled water.
...

Okay so I got the valve cover off, though I had to take my carbs off when it really seemed I had to take the coils off. Checked the valve clearance. All of my exhaust were in spec where as all of my intake side had what seemed like no gap. Couldn't get a .04 mm feeler gauge in and that's like a piece of paper almost. I didn't know how to actually get the valve shims out and was running out of time fighting against the weather. So I cleaned the old valve cover gasket off, put in the new cam end plugs (sealed with Suzuki valve sealant). Let it sit for at least 6 hours and tried to start it just to see if I could take it to work this morning. When I tried to start it it was shooting flames out the exhaust and sounded like gunshots. Discovered I swapped some plug wires around and fixed it. When it ran it didn't want to stay running. Would only run with choke and I couldn't give it full throttle or it'd die. Took it around the block and it was backfiring super bad going down the hill like it did when I had a float stuck open. It barely made it home it was like I had a vacuum leak but I'm almost certain I don't. I didn't adjust anything on the carbs or anything just put it back together. It did get rained on (it was still put together) pretty heavily for about an hour till I got out to cover it. Possible there's rain in the carbs? I do have pod  filters 

You have to pull the cams to replace with smaller shims. That's why PO's sell these bikes saying it's the carbs. You MUST adjust the valves.
Steve